jim_foley4

<p>I have one available in the classifieds section. It's only $75 and you get a free lens and front cap with it ;-) </p>

<p>When my daughter had her first child a woman came to the hospital to take photos. They came out great. All she had was the camera and a single Speedlite. Your lenses are fine and your strobe is fine. Do just like Fred said. Mount the flash on the camera, turn the flash head 90 degrees to the lens, tilt the flash head 45 degrees toward the ceiling. Don't use a flash diffuser. Use a white wall and ceiling to diffuse the light. Check your exposure with the histogram and zoom in on the display to check the focus. If you have nice natural light reduce power of the strobe. Mom holding baby wide and also tight is the best pose at 3 weeks. Good luck. You'll be fine. </p>

<p>There are also the basics... use a tripod and cable release or self timer.<br> I'm guessing that color accuracy is also a concern so you might want to take a shot of a color card as well after the gray card.<br> Polarization of the light source in combination with camera's polarizing fiter is also very helpful. I received this in my e-mail just yesterday...<br> http://www.edmundoptics.com/resources/application-notes/illumination/successful-light-polarization-techniques/<br> Polarizing film is readily available from the big suppliers. Good luck.</p>

<p>mAh = milliamp hours is the available capacity. The more the better.<br> V is obviously Volts. Battery voltage varies a bit from fully charged to partial charge, then a lot to flat. I can't comment on 7 vs 7.4 because it has to do with type and efficiency of the voltage regulator in the camera.<br> Wh = watt hours which is just volts x amp hours. This is also a capacity number.<br> If the battery somehow fails catastrophically then that could be bad for the camera but otherwise I don't think it matters. It is unlikely that a failed battery can output a higher voltage than it is rated for. I use both Nikon and 3rd party. All I know is that the Nikon batteries have a much longer useful life. They can be charged/discharged many more times before they die.</p>

<p>Looks like a reflection. You can see blue sky and clouds as well as the plane. The Navy Yard is just North of the Airport.</p>

<p>I am very happy with the Vello products. I have a Freewave and also a ShutterBoss. They both work well and cables are of high quality. They also sell cables separately for a very low price in my opinion. I use both the 10 pin and the small connector on my D7100.</p>

<p>I bought a micrometer slide on e-bay for about $30. It's very stiff and very precise. Much stiffer than any of the rails you are looking at. The one I got happened to have a differential micrometer which can be easily adjusted to less than a micron which is overkill. It has over an inch of travel which is plenty. I added a cheap Arca clamp to the top and a plate to the bottom. The down side is that you have to look and wait but it's easy on the budget.</p>

<p>I have the Nikon 17-55 2.8 and the Tokina 11-16 2.8. Both are excellent. The 17-55 is always on the camera and is my walk-around lens. I used them an a D200 and now on a D7100. They are both sharp as all get out and if I can't zoom in with my feet I find that the D7100 has plenty of resolution to crop. The D200, like the D90, did not do so well when I had to crop. I also have a 70-200 2.8 VR-I but it is used much less often. If I want really shallow DOF I use the Nikon 35 1.8 G or an old 50 1.4 D. Both are sharp and inexpensive. Based on my crude testing the 17-55 is just as sharp as a prime. I bought it new years ago with the D200 and I never regretted it.</p>

I tried the original Sigma 30mm a while ago and found exactly what the reviews say. It was very soft at the edges. It also had inconsistent autofocus but that might have been my sample. I ended up with the Nikon 35mm f/1.8 AF-S DX and it did much better side by side. A new Nikon was cheaper than a used Sigma. The new Sigma Art may be better but not dollar for dollar in my opinion.

<p>You should feel a stop at either end of the focus travel but then the ring slips and continues to turn. That's normal for this lens.</p>

<p>One word... focusstackedpanoramicmacrophotography<br> Well if it was written in German it would be one word ;-)</p>

<p>Update: I received the Non-ART version of the Sigma lens. I tried it and sure enough the edges are quite soft. Also the auto-focus was not all that consistent. It also refused to focus at all in live-view mode on D7100. I contacted KEH about the incorrect specification on their site and they offered free return shipping and full refund. After looking at dpreview I decided to save money and risk and just buy a new Nikon 35mm f/1.8 DX lens from KEH. It may be 1/2 stop slower but I know it will be compatible and pretty darn sharp at f/2.8 - 5.6<br> While testing the Sigma I confirmed once again that the Nikon 17-55mm f/2.8 is a really good lens even wide open.</p>

<p>I'm using NX2 2.4.6 on Win XP & 7 with D7100 NEF same as what you say above and it works fine. <br> I don't use Nikon Transfer. Good luck.</p>

<p>I have the Vello ShutterBoss. It works great. Does what it says very well. I have the wireless version and it works wired or wireless with a receiver. Cable is well made and can be replaced with other camera versions. I have both the 10pin and DC2 versions. Replacement/alternate cables are really cheap. I use it wireless even when I'm standing next to the camera. Great wireless range and easy to get into the shot if you want. I've used it for long milky way exposures in wireless mode too. I attached a flash shoe to the leg of my tripod so I can mount the receiver and still use the popup flash or shoe mount flash. No long cables to get caught and the transmitter goes in your pocket. Quality is very good. You won't be disappointed.</p>

<p>Andy, thanks for that information about active d-lighting. I had no idea that anything impacted the RAW file. Is there anything else that does?</p>

<p>Thanks to all. I ordered what I hope is the ART version from KEH. The description and Sigma part number were both right for the ART but the picture was not. I'm not sure why I didn't think to call before pulling the trigger this morning. They processed the order almost instantly. Oh well. I hope I get the ART and I hope it's a good one. If not I'll be out the return postage. Don't tell my wife I bought it. ;-)</p>

<p>Thank you Mike, Andy and Shun. Andy, you are correct they are from KEH and both listed as Nikon mount. Thus my confusion but I've seen them mixed other places as well. Shun, your explanation makes sense and Mike's link shows them all. I never thought of that. Mike, the DG HSM would be nice but unfortunately difficult to justify. Thanks. </p>

<p>And without...</p><div></div>

<p>With AF/M switch...</p><div></div>

<p>Thanks Shun but the second review is the newest ART version. Here are photos of what I think are different versions...</p>

<p>I'm looking for a used Sigma 30mm/f1.4 DX lens and I'm finding what I think are multiple versions of the EX DC HSM lens. Neither is the A (ART) version and I'm not finding much by searching the Internet. It looks like one has a AF/M switch and the other does not. If this is true, is there a name difference and which one is older? More importantly, is one better than the other? I understand that better is subjective but let's say overall optical performance and build quality. Any other input is welcome. Thanks.</p> <p>Jim</p>

<p>Carry your ID and your return paper or whatever it's called when you drive. I had the unpleasant experience of being stopped by the police on the road just to be checked one evening. They say nothing and are not particularly friendly. It was a little intimidating. Otherwise I don't recall much trouble driving there. We had a small SUV and the roads were okay back in 2011. Look up Ecoglide for a really good zip-line. Make sure you have a strong camera strap!! We were there at Thanksgiving and still had quite a bit of rainy weather and cloud cover. Overall it was a great trip.</p>