notraces

<p>Jim,</p>

<p>I read your post. I had a similar issue with my MP AND M6 --<br>

Question: do you use a Nikon scanner? The reason I ask is because the film holder thingy on my Nikon 5000 was scratching the film - pretty much the same place - horizontal - slightly wavy. I had the holder repaired by Nikon and the issue went away.<br>

I will still get what I call transom lines on my film from time to time - it's usually due to dirt / grime in the light trap on the film canister. I'll get the scratch across maybe 1 to 3 frames - then it's gone.<br>

I hope you find your problem -- it's a tough one to track down.</p>

This is a really old thread - but did I the OP use a film dryer??? Those marks look like baked-in photo flo. (I had this issue,

too)

<p>I use this one - and it's fantastic:</p>

<p>http://www.japanexposures.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=44&products_id=216</p>

<p>I think the Metz (looking at a Metz Mecablitz 45 CL-1) looks to fit the bill. It comes with a bracket (I have a Rolleifix) - and does the basic STUFF I want to do.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Would something like this work as a flash bracket with either a 3.5F or 2.8F?</p>

<p>http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/105119-REG/Stroboframe_310_900_Camera_Flip_Bracket.html</p>

<p>Quick question -- it looks like I can pick up a PC cord (PC-31) from B&H -- I'm wondering how people juggle the flash and the camera? I suppose I would get focus about where I wanted it -- and then raise the flash in one hand -- and then look through the viewfinder and sort of move back and forth until I have focus - and then use my right hand to fire the shutter.<br>

Does that sound about right? (Yes, I know I could use a tripod -- but I don't like them much).</p>

<p>Frank -- thanks for that -- I'm going to order one from B&H and figure out how to use it with my Rolleiflex -- there have been times when some nice fill would have done wonders.</p>

<p>Frank -- what's a better choice? I've often thought of getting a flash to use with my Rollei's - instead of dragging out a strobe.</p>

<p>I use this stuff:<br>

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/16726-REG/Edwal_EDLFN3_4_LFN_Wetting_Agent_for.html<br>

I put a SINGLE drop in 475ml of DISTILLED water. I wash my film normally (I use a Gravity Works film washer - works great) -- and then I pop the reel in the tank with distilled water / LFN -- I agitate easy for about a minute - just long enough to let the LFN create some surface tension -- then I take out my negs - and hang them to dry in the shower. I'll get a water mark maybe once every 20 rolls or so -- but it's easily removed with a very soft Ilford cloth...</p>

<p>I lived in London -- been to the coast -- I know all about the weather --- never bothered me or my lenses -- but hey, to each his own --- I'll save the money by not buying filters -- and spend it on beer.</p>

<p>No filters for protection only -- sorry - I don't get it. In 35 years I've never once wished I had a filter to protect my lenses. Waste of money. Get a hood and use it.</p>

<p>I have #300 off the line -- there may be a speck or two of dust -- but it's certainly not very dirty -- and I've run quite a bit of film through it - and it's been around the world with me at least twice...It's the best camera I own.</p>

<p>I'm a bit Cartesio journal fan, too -- less than Moleskines - and really well-made.</p>

<p>I like this video -- I'm a Moleskine addict -- along with Leica M cameras -- there's a nice CL in this clip -- enjoy --</p>

<p>http://youtu.be/DqNhlN1FGOk</p>

<p>Since when does BURGER KING sell Big Macs?</p>

<p>Glad David could help -- he's very knowledgeable and helpful. </p>

<p>You have a string of bad luck --<br>

I don't the meter needs replacing -- once again, if it were me, I'd send it to Sherry -- or if you're in Canada - David Yau is one of the best -- he's fast, and usually less expensive than Sherry.</p>

<p>David's email address -- David Yau <d.yau@rogers.com></p>

<p>I'd have the camera CLA'd -- send it to Sherry Krauter -- she'll fix it up perfectly.</p>

<p>http://www.sherrykrauter.com/</p>

<p>Sounds like a simple RF alignment issue -- you could have her do that work only -- but have her look at it -- and give you and estimate of anything else which may need work.<br>

If it were me -- I'd go out and shoot with it -- and see what the negs looked like. I don't know how you've determined the meter is off 6 stops - but run a roll through just for grins. The M6 is one of the finest M's ever - I wouldn't be without mine...</p>

<p>I'd be hard pressed to tell the difference between the two -- both great lenses.</p>

<p>brad -- just pick up a nice 50mm Summicron - the latest version on the secondhand market is significantly less than your budget. My first Leica lens was a 50 Summicron - the version just before the latest (version 3) - I still have it after many years and many photos. Start there - take the rest of the money and buy some film and chemicals to develop.</p>

<p>Take the lens out -- shoot with it -- examine the negatives -- I'm certain they'll be fine. Shouldn't take very long to shoot a test roll to be sure...</p>

<p>Tom - that lens is one of the sharpest lenses I own.</p>

<p>Don't study the images in Photoshop at 100% - a complete waste of time. DO study the negatives on a light table and a decent loupe. The Imacon is nice - I have one in the gallery I belong to - but it's not foolproof - and certainly not like making a true optical print to judge image quality.</p>

<p>Look at the neg from edge to edge - if you were shooting a landscape, you should see sharpness from edge to edge (you don't say what your subject was in the photos - a portrait at close distance will certainly be different than a landscape) -- a portrait would render the edges much softer...</p>

<p>Torben -- kick in a new subject --</p>

<p>Chris -- i have no idea...</p>

<p>Were you shooting RAW? if so - it'll remain uncalibrated (even though you chose Adobe RGB) until you convert the RAW film and assign / convert to sRGB -- or whatever profile you choose for your intended output.<br>

Choosing Adobe RGB will assign that profile to any jpeg you shoot -- so if you shoot RAW + JPG -- you'll see the profile associated with your jpeg. At least that's the way it should work.</p>

<p>Go with the CR 1/3N - more consistent - and longer lasting --- you can get them at Downtown Camera -- or Henry's - no problem...</p>