alex_fan1

<p>Gus, if using denatured alcohol to clean the shutter cloth, would the shutter cloth decoloring? What will be the best solvent for cleaning of shutter cloth?</p>

<p>Alex</p>

<p>Gus, if use denatured alcohol to clean the shutter cloth, would the shutter cloth decoloring? What will be the best solvent for cleaning of shutter cloth?</p>

<p>Alex</p>

After cleaning by Nikon services, the problem gone.

But there is no free lunch.

100% crop of the same photo.<div></div>

Attached is the photo taken by 2nd version of 180 ELmarit on a Canon 350D body. I don't have Nikon or Canon counterparts, but comment on the Nikon AIS 180/2.8 is quite good as well.

 

In general, my feeling on leica lenses, is the color rendition seems more "lively" and accurate than others.<div></div>

Roger,

 

Thx, I tried with the Superfine mode and don't have such problem. I called Nikon support center, they said it may cause by dirt components. So I will send them to have a cleaning.

But is the "pattern" on the attach file known as the famous "Banding" problem or something else ?

It was done by Nikon Scan 4.0 with one single pass.

Hi, I just got a 2nd hand Nikon 8000 ed scanner

I found there are few strange pattern on part of the image, is it the so

called "banding" problem or something that can be fixed by Nikon support

services.

 

Thx

Alex<div></div>

Michael, If you use it mainly for street, I think Rollei TLR might be a better choice as the shutter sound is more quiet than Hassy. I sometime forget to take out the dark slide when using Hassy and miss good chance to capture photos. -- Alex

I just bought a set of neutral EZ B/W cartridge set from MIS. They sell it separately or as a package of 4 but seems no different in price.

 

I tried to use the 4 b/w cartridges together and only the black one for printing. Seems both look very good. Using only the Photo black gives a slightly warmer tone, the result is impressive.

 

I don't use Matte paper, I tried the Eboni ink on Epson Premium gloss and Semi-gloss paper, the gloss differential is quite notable when you look at the photo from different angle. The tone of Eboni black is slightly warm but less warm compare to Photo black for "black only" printing. However if you use the set of 4 together, the tone become more neutral (their neutral set).

 

To start with suggest you to try the "Black Only" approach - only buy their Photo Black / Eboni Black. It is easier to produce good result. If you intent to buy a set and prefer a slightly warmer tone, you can try to buy the EZ Neutral for CM position, and EZ Warm in Y position.

Thx

 

Alex

Aaron,

 

Thx for your suggestions, the foam pad is saturated and I have dried it by a piece of toliet paper, however it doesn't help. The ink is still have more than 80% full. If the nozzle is damaged and it may not be worth to buy a new set of ink for trying.

Hi, I had not used my printer for about two year and few days ago I tried to

use it again, but it only print out black and color bars for whatever content

I am trying. Any idea or it's time for me to get a new one.

My feeling is that, SWC is pretty flare resistant. unless strong light is direct from the front, in this case flare cannot be prevented by hood. I am using it with a UV filter without hood most of the time. Having said that, I had been taught to use hood in any situation.

 

The attached photos show flare under direct strong light.<div></div>

Looks like it need cleaning

 

http://www.pearsonimaging.com/articles/howto/ls5000cleaning.html

nice shots

Wolf, just for sharing of photos, nothing in particular for telling.

 

Dennis, thx for your comment, I think the contrasty may due to my PS tuning using a poor LCD monitor especially on B/W.

Rolleiflex 2.8F with TX400. Thx for CPeter's focus screen.<p>

<img src="http://www.hellofan.com/myphotos/Street/Central/slides/bw060708-

rollei-tx-08.jpg"><br>125f5.6<p>

<img src="http://www.hellofan.com/myphotos/Street/Wanchai/slides/bw060708-

rollei-tx-04.jpg"><br>125f5.6<p>

SWC with Fuji Superia 100

<img src="http://www.hellofan.com/myphotos/Street/Central/slides/200608-swc-1-

07.jpg"><br>60f4-5.6<p>

<img src="http://www.hellofan.com/myphotos/Street/Central/slides/200608-swc-1-

08.jpg"><br>125f8<p>

This is an example of shutter blade scratch internal element of a SWC/M (old version), you need to examine the lens from different angles carefully with a flash light and open the shutter. The camera was described as perfect without scratches and marks when I got it in eBay.

 

Be very careful mate!<div></div>

I had been using Hexar RF for about one and half year and finally let go. It is a great camera. It works well with Leica lenses from 21mm to 90mm. I don't have any problem in focusing and the 4000 shutter is great.

 

The reason for selling it is it's shutter delay which is not so good for snapshot. I feel more sure on the timing of exposure when using M-body.

<img src="http://www.hellofan.com/myphotos/Street/120/slides/2006-6-120-acros-11.jpg">

Hi, I accidently used a roll of Fuji Acros 100 as 400. Any idea about the

timing for pushing with D76? From the Fuji data guide, 100 (7.25min) 200 (10

min), what shall be 400?

Thx

 

Alex

David and Arthur,

 

I think the scan quality various on film.

The 9950F works quite well with RHP and 160NC (I just use the curve on PS to reduce blue and increase green a bit) however the result is no good with RVP base on my limited experience with this scanner.