haziz

Most large format photographers do film development using trays in absolute darkness. Most of the ones I know never use any gloves and have their hands in the chemicals for many minutes to occasionally hours if doing several batches. No harm done. Obviously don't do anything foolish like ingesting the stuff, etc.

<p>There used to be a highly detailed website covering Olympus OM cameras and lenses. I am not refering to the "mir" Malaysian website, but to another website that had very detailed info regarding the OM bodies, lenses, optical designs of the lenses, somewhat subjective lens reviews etc. It appears to be dead as best as I can tell, which would be a pity. Does anybody know which website I am referring to, and if it still exists or even if it is archived somewhere? It would be a pity for all that info to just evaporate.<br /><br />Thanks.<br /><br />Sincerely,<br /><br />Hany.</p>

<p>How precise is "do not import suspected duplicates" in lightroom? Does it stop at just the file name or does it probe the image's time and date stamps and the individual image's metadata.<br>

In other words how far can I trust it? I am fairly paranoid and do not wish to lose any images but also do not want needless duplication of images. I currently will often have 2 to 5 copies of the same image file scattered across multiple internal and external hard drives. I will be using Lightroom to consolidate all my images from multiple internal and external drives and into a single catalog (I will ask it to include the actual "negative" image file) to be stored in one DROBO RAID array. I will be eventually backing up the DROBO into a second external 3TB drive with another third backup (less frequent) kept offsite.<br>

Thanks.<br>

Sincerely,<br>

Hany.</p>

<p>What is the best photo stock agency for an advanced amateur shooting mainly nature photography and landscapes? Will not submit any people pictures since I do not obtain a model release. I have a few hundred (probably thousands) images I can submit though most have yet to be indexed and cross referenced. Some are multiples of the same bird/scene with only small differences since I tend to be occasionally heavy handed with the continuous shooting mode. Obviously I would not submit repeat images of the same bird on my initial submission. <br>

<br>

My gear (e.g. Canon 5D MKII, Olympus E5 bodies and pro-grade glass) easily meets the stock requirements. I have no interest in giving away my pictures and have no interest in driving the pros out of business.<br>

<br>

I was thinking of submitting to Corbis, Getty and Alamy. Any issues with submitting the same images to multiple agencies at the same time for acceptance?<br>

<br>

Any agencies you would would recommend and any agencies to avoid?</p>

<p>From what I have read would probably avoid micro-stock agencies. Anybody disagree?</p>

<p>Any input or feedback appreciated.<br>

<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>Sincerely,</p>

<p>Hany.</p>

<br />

 

<p>I am looking for instructions (or better yet a YouTube style video) on how to load film using the M2 Quickload Kit (fitted in my case on an M3). This is not the Rapidload 3 pronged tulip of M4 and later cameras but the kit that Leica sold as an aftermarket item for M2 cameras etc. Sorry but it seems even less intuitive than the dreaded take up spool of LTM fame.<br /><br />Also is the Quickload take up spool completely removable? I thought it was fixed in the camera. I do know about the chrome core that you have to pull to reset the counter on an M3.<br /><br />Thanks.<br /><br />Sincerely,<br /><br />Hany.</p>

<p>Also do not be shy about using Sprint "Standard" film developer. It is excellent. I actually prefer it with Ilford FP4+ over Xtol, Rodinal and Ilford Ilfotec DDX.</p>

<p>I prefer Sprint "Standard" film developer over Xtol, Ilfotec DDX, and Rodinal. Most of this is with FP4+ in all sizes from 35 mm film, and medium format to 8x10. I have also used it a lot with HP5+ (35 mm to 5x7) and Tri-X 400 in 35 mm and 120 film. It gives me great results and great tonality and with the FP4+ I get a true speed of 125-160 using my equipment and technique. Interestingly I do not see the same speed increase with HP5+ which gives me an EI of about 250. It has nothing to apologise about and should not be regarded as "house-brand" soda as another poster noted. It can certainly stand shoulder to shoulder with the big boys.<br>

I also use their stop, fix, fixer remover and their print developer. Their print develper imparts a slightly cold (but still fairly neutral) look to the prints that I love.</p>

<p>Does the 16-35 mm lens vignette with a regular UV filter? Do I need a wide or thin filter?<br>

Thanks.<br>

Sincerely,<br>

Hany.</p>

<p>I have a 16 gig Sandisk Extreme III but incredibly that is now insufficient. Would like to purchase a new card. Would I notice a difference in write speed with the Extreme IV vs the Extreme III (I don't care about read speed, When downloading I have all the time in the world). This is mainly for still photography (not too interested in video). I shoot RAW plus Large Fine JPG.<br>

Thanks.<br>

Sincerely,<br>

Hany.</p>

<p>I am heading to New Mexico next week and will stay for a week. Will be flying in and out of Albuquerque. Main purpose is photography (Landscapes and to a lesser extent culture) and to a lesser extent birding (No interest in bird photography). What do you suggest for an itinerary? Thanks. Sincerely, Hany.</p>

 

<p >Are Lightroom's presets cumulative? For e.g. if I import a set of images using the "General: Punch" preset which utilizes a clarity and vibrance boost then apply a "Capture One Landscape" (downloaded from the internet) or another preset that wishes to bump up the clarity or vibrance would the absolute value of clarity and vibrance be the sum of both or just of the most recent preset?</p>

<p >Also can you set more than one preset on import, e.g. "General-Punch" AND "Sharpen Landscapes"?<br>

Thanks. <br /><br />Sincerely, <br /><br />Hany. </p>

 

How much more generous is the image circle and coverage of the Rodenstock Sironar W 210 lens vs an older single

coated Fujinon W 210 (mine is in a Seiko shutter) with the writing inside the the inner ring of the front element? The

older SC Fujinons have a reputation for having a more generous image circle than their later MC brethren.

 

This would be used as a wide angle on 8x10. I will mostly be contact printing, though it is conceivable I could enlarge

8x10 if I ever get to setting up my Zone VI enlarger.

 

One big advantage for the Fujinon is that I already have it.

 

Thanks.

 

Sincerely,

 

Hany.

Any suggestions for destinations for photography. Basically a destination that would allow me to fly to it and enjoy a

nice 3-4 day weekend photographing, generally a 3 day holiday weekend possibly with an extra day off. I prefer to fly

and dislike long drives (anything over 100 miles). Ideally it should involve:

 

1. Proximity to a major airport, allowing one to fly in and reach the desitnation quickly.

2. Spectacular and somewhat unique scenery. I genreally prefer landscapes (e.g. Yosemite, Antelope Canyon,

Canyon de Chelly, Rocky Mountain National Park etc)

3. Ease of getting there. The overall ease of flying in, renting a car, staying close to my destination and then flying

out. The idea being that the whole trip does not turn into a tiring logistical nightmare.

 

Reasonable options I can think of are Yosemite (using Fresno as the airport) and Rocky Mountain National Park

(using Denver). I live in the Northeast US and would ideally prefer destinations that don't turn into a hassle flying to

them but am generally flexible.

 

Ideas? Suggestions?

 

Thanks a lot in advance.

 

Sincerely,

 

Hany.

How about all three lenses? The two kit zooms will give a significant range and the 50 mm f1.8 will give you a good, fast portrait lens and a

lens for available light indoor shots.

 

Sincerely,

 

Hany.

Any advantage for picking up a used E-300 if I already have both the E-420 and E-520?

 

People rave over the colors emerging from Kodak sensors, on the other hand the E-420 and E-520 colors and image rendition has been

described as closer to the Olympus "image" family over their E-x10 siblings. Websites keep advising whether or not to upgrade from the E-

300 to an E-520 but not about going retro (which is very short term with digital!). BTW I am right eyed when using viewfinders.

 

I guess I feel some money burning a hole in my pocket! Choices are the 35 mm macro lens or the E-300? I do see myself at some point

acquiring an E-1 to see what the whole fuss was about and in the pursuit of a better viewfinder which is my pet peeve with the E-420 & E-

520 cameras. I come from using film SLRs and rangefinders which I continue to use and enjoy in addition to a good medium format

rangefinder as well as large format (4x5 to 7x17) that I continue to use mainly for wet darkroom B&W. I do also have Canon digital

including the Canon 50 and 100 macro lenses. I do realize that it is really the lens that is the critical piece rather than the body.

 

Thanks.

 

Sincerely,

 

Hany.

Canon 24 mm f2.8. Very sharp and plenty wide at least for my tastes.

 

Sincerely,

 

Hany.

In response to Glenn Rasmussen: I do have the 25 mm f2.8 pancake lens which is normal for Four thirds format. I am just hoping for a relatively compact prime lens with a field of view similar to a 35 mm lens on 135 film format hence my dreaming of a 17.5 mm lens give or take 1 to 2 mm.

 

Thanks.

 

Sincerely,

 

Hany.

A 17.5 (or 17 or 18 even a 20 mm) f2.8 lens would be a sweet "walkaround" lens. They can even make it an f3.5 lens if that makes it more

compact. You will immediately get requests for something even wider, though personally I would prefer a 17.5 mm rather than a wider lens

as a walkaround lens. A 14 mm and a 42 (or 50) mm lens could be added later as other primes. The 42 mm (or 50 mm) should be fast (at

least f1.8 preferably f1.4, even f1.2) to make it an ideal portrait lens. I do believe that a 50 (or 42 mm) mm f1.4 should be added as a

portrait lens. The 50 f2 lens probably makes too many compromises with a long helical to allow it's use for macros. Moreover since there is

a rich heritage of normal lenses for 35 mm cameras, they can probably design a 50 mm f1.4 lens in their sleep.

 

Pentax can make a pancake 21 mm lens f3.2 lens so we know that a 20-21 mm pancake is doable. Olympus's 40 mm f2 pancake for the

OM mount is sweet. My OM2SP with the 35 mm f2.8 (less often the 40 mm pancake or 50 mm f1.4) is usually what I grab when I walk out

wanting to take a few quick snaps. I do have some other fancier set ups including both Leica M and R as well as Canon digital but it is

usually the Olympus OM that I grab as I am heading out. Since I got the E-420 it has been my grab and go camera, we'll see if this

continues or I return to the Olympus OM.

 

Thanks.

 

Sincerely,

 

Hany.

I am planning on using Lightroom and wanted a book to walk me through an efficient workflow and for some tips

regarding image processing. Would strongly prefer it to be written by a photographer rather than a computer

professional since at least with photoshop I do significantly prefer those approaching it with a photographer'e eye. I

have used Aperture to some extent on a Mac up to version 1.5 but surprisingly for software designed by Apple never

found it very intuitive to use. I do use Photoshop CS3 and am reasonably comfortable with it though I am far from

being a photoshop guru. I am to some extent hoping for a vague family resemblence though I do realize they are very

different programs.

 

Thanks.

 

Sincerely,

 

Hany.

I just received the ever-ready (never-ready if you prefer) case and strap for the E-420 from Japan (purchased through

ebay). Nice, if quite expensive. I got the dark brown version which seems suitably retro but the effect is spoilt by the

lining which appears to be a bright fluorescent orange suede. I do still wish that Olympus USA would release it in the

US. I do also hope Olympus would rethink the color of the lining, a subdued beige suede would have been a far wiser

choice.

 

Thanks.

 

Sincerely,

 

Hany.

Start with the 18-55 kit lens. It should cover 90% of your needs. A 50 f1.8 can also be added as an available light lens and

as a great portrait lens. Experiment, learn to use your camera, and above all have fun!

 

Sincerely,

 

Hany.

50 f1.4 (also 50 f1.8), 35 f2.8, 135 f2.8. Most of my photography are with the 50 and 35 mm lenses. Sharp and their focal lengths fit better my way of seeing. The 135 gets a good amount of use when I need a longer lens.

 

I am beginning to play with my more recently acquired 40 f2 and 100 f2.8. A 28 f2.8 gets occasional use. I rarely go any wider. A vivitar 19 mm f3.8 is very rarely used.

 

Sincerely,

 

Hany.

Are you sure it isn't a rectilinear rather than fisheye? I own a Vivitar 19 mm f3.8 in Olympus OM mount. At least mine is rectilinear not a fisheye. I do use it occasionally if I want a really wide angle but frankly rarely use it, the 28 mm is usually as wide as I like. Most of my photos are with the 35 mm and 50 mm lenses with frequent use of the 135 mm lens.

 

Sincerely,

 

Hany.

Experiment first for six months to a year then you will know yourself what will or will not work for you. If the itch to add a lens gets unbearable you could add the Olympus 25 mm f2.8 "pancake" lens. I am another happy user of this lens, and going around with a normal lens as your first and for many people their only lens is the traditional way to do photography. On the other hand you may end up deciding that you do most of your photography with either the wide end or the long end of your kit zoom, in which case you will soon know what is a better fit for you.

 

Use what you have first for a few months, learn, experiment and have fun!

 

Sincerely,

 

Hany.

" So TWO people think 40mm is wide. Wow. "

 

Sorry for barging in but I had to come to the defence of one of my favourite focal

lengths in 35 mm photography. I have 40 mm lenses in several mounts (Leica M,

Olympus OM, Konica Hexanon) and the field of view is one of my favourites. I agree

that the gentle wide of 40 mm (on 35 mm) is a great focal length for the format. It is

also a favourite field of view in other formats e.g. 135 mm in 4x5 and 80 mm in 6x7,

both of which are probably closer to the more square aspect ratio of the four thirds

system. The true diagonal of 35 mm film is 43 mm but people have generally

adopted 50 mm as the "normal lens". Moreover the 'squarish' aspect ratio of the four

third system makes direct comparison difficult. Like a lot of people I find the 35 mm

to 50 mm focal range sufficient to encompass most of my photography.

 

I certainly hope Olympus adds another compact prime. A 17.5 mm f2.8 compact

lens would be yummy. Olympus (or Leica), are you listening?

 

Sincerely,

 

Hany.