joe_ethridge

Sorry to ask, but I've not been able to find Light Sphere, using the quick searches. Thanks, Joe

I always figure that if I can't fix things with my trusty sledge hammer and or roll of duct tape, perhaps I shouldn't be screwing with it.

If it were me, I would only consider sending it to Canon for repairs. My 10D is my pride and joy, and the notion of taking pliers and hammers to it sends a cold chill down my spine :) Good luck, Joe

Yakim,

With regards to ebay, there is much to be said. If you are not in a hurry to sell, and want top dollar, I would strongly suggest studying ebay for a short time. Especially the items that you want to sell. You can search for these items that are up for bid now and items that have recently ended and gain a better understanding of what to do, and more importantly, what not to do. I've had great success selling on ebay. Someone mentioned selling a couple of items to build up some feedback. That is a good idea.

I think we photographers have an edge when selling our gear, as we can put our skills to work with the great photos. Another thing to remember is to give a full description, and be straight forward about being new to the ebay scene. It is not uncommon to offer a 30 day money back offer. Many bidders will jump on some mint prime EOS lenses. Perhaps you have some smaller items as well, to help build a reputation. One thing that is for sure, if bidders check your feedback and see comments like "fantastic lens...much better than expected....super fast shipping...great guy to communicate with...etc", they may realize they'd better grab your stuff while they still can.

Be sure to come across by explaining who you are and why you're selling. Most buyers want to buy from a regular guy just like themselves, and as long as you encourage questions and communication, they'll warm up to bidding.

Ebay used to be a good place to buy used gear. It is now a great place to sell used gear, as many bid as much for used as they could order new from B&H! I don't like to pay more than 50% for used, and 65% for mint, so I rarely buy on ebay anymore. Now is time to sell!

That said, I must admit that selling on ebay can be a pain in the rear! Be prepared for some idiotic questions and people trying to con you into selling off ebay etc.

Good luck,

Joe

A 14mm-470mm zoom mounted on my hybrid Holga-Horizant-Nikkormat. This lens is a bit slow (f16-f64 maximum aperature), but I find that if I use a Lensbabie attachment, it gives unworldly results.

I know that some of you may be asking if this setup is digital or film. Actually, it is both.It is quite a dickens to feed the film over the memory card, but with practice and 72 hours, one can be ready to shoot any wedding situation.

And when all else fails, I can remove the lens and use as a pinhole camera, just as another member mentioned.

BTW, I always use the zone system. Whenever the B&G are within the right zone, I click away. Well actually, it sounds a bit more like click, kerchunk, whirr, schreech.

Now that is what I call a fun setup: )

I've used the Canon 380EX and the Canon 420Ex with my 35mm EOS cameras and with my Canon 10D and G2 digital cameras for a few years and I must say that the quality and accuracy is simply fantastic. I've tried using 3rd party lenses (Tokina) and flashes (Metz) with the Canons and wasn't impressed. I realize that others will argue this point, but for me, I'll stick with Canon stuff! The 420EX is approx. $165.00 (after $15.00 rebate) from B&H right now, and it is USA, not grey market. It has tilt, swivel, etc, and will allow you to take advantage of the sophisticated high tech that Canon has developed into their line of equipment. I've had fantastic results, and firmly trust the set up.

When used with the Canon off camera shoe cord 2 ($50.00) and a flash bracket, you will get very professional looking shots. There are many good brackets on the market, and I've found the Stroboframe 35mm Quick Flip to work very well. I think it will be one of the most affordable ones (approx. $45.00) and will allow you to move the flash about 12 inches above the lens (helping avoid red eye, and giving a more natural look). It also flips for vertical shots as well. This set up works very well when bouncing the flash off the ceiling or wall.

I hope this helps.

Joe

Thanks to everyone. Now, to decide what to do after a bit more research. I'm always amazed as to the great feedback on this site.

Joe

I've thought about purchasing two Alien Bees (800W), and use them

with my Canon 10D. I am new to using studio lighting, and thought

that perhaps with the digital review on the camera, I may not need a

basic flash meter. Thanks for any assistance.

Joe

Great info.

I appreciate the feedback, I'd probably get overwhelmed with the additional software, as I've got much to learn in so many areas, anyway. I guess now, my decision should be whether to buy the 4000, or go with the new model, the 4800.

 

Thanks again, Joe

I currently own an Epson 1280, and thought that I'd step up to an

Epson 4000, due to the archival inks, larger format (for 16x20) ,

and savings in ink, over the long run (as opposed to an Epson 2200).

I realize that Epson is about to market the 4800, but thought that

since they are offering a rebate of $300.00 or free RIP by

colorburst, perhaps I should go with the 4000. I'm currently an

amature getting ready to go pro (yes, I realize what I'm getting in

to, and no, you don't know the hell my present career has been these

past 26 years. There is no turning back:) I'm just not sure if I'll

be needing a RIP program. I prefer to keep things to a minimum if

possible, and I'm not sure if I'll really get the most from a RIP.

Perhaps the $300.00 rebate would be better. I know the 4000 is a big

step from the 1280, but most of my prints (Hahnemuhle, Lumijet,

parchment and velvet type) have been great without using a RIP. Any

feedback on which way to go would be appreciated. Thanks, Joe:)

I'm a bit new to using this forum. Yes, I'll soon be shooting raw, but for now, my computer is just too darn slow! And, while I understand that my 10D (which I plan on keeping for quite some time) has only the optical viewfinder, it still has an instant review of the photo, which is of great assistance. While the G2 is point and shoot, it is also a wonderful photographic tool. I really love the swivel screen, allowing for waist level shots, some tight macro shots, etc. With regards to using the viewfinder as a tool for B&W ( and any custom functions on any make of camera), I think it is like so many other aspects of photography, in that some of us prefer one method, and others prefer something different. I am thrilled that all cameras aren't exactly alike, and thank goodness, all of our photos aren't identical. I fear that no one would even bother to check out sites like this one. Cheers:)

I guess that answers my question. Perhaps some day I'll need another camera body, and then, I'll have the B&W mode. In the meantime, I'll keep using the G2 to be able to see the real world in B&W in realtime:) Thanks everyone.

Perhaps this question sounds odd, since I can always change a color

photo to black and white in photoshop. But I really enjoy shooting

in B&W mode with my Canon G2. The monitor shows B&W and I can really

see the image in true B&W long before post processing. I can even

see the variations when using red and yellow filters. It seems that

I saw somewhere in photo.net, that someone shot with their Canon 20D

set to B&W mode. Am I missing something? Perhaps there is a simple

way to switch to B&W, but I haven't come across it.

Hi Joerg,

Perhaps it was just the one that I owned (purchased on ebay from the Czech Republic). The camera was just not up to what I wanted. The seller was OK, and the camera was OK at first, but the film advance didn't work all that well. The lenses were great (50mm Flektogon, 80mm Jena, 180mm Sonnar). All were affordable on ebay, but I got rid of the Sonnar as it weighed a ton !!! and the 50mm needed a lens hood as it was not multi-coated, and lens flare was an issue. The 80mm was MC and worked great. But I just could not accept the hit and miss problem with the Pentacon. I still use and love my Rollieflex TLR, as it is a much better made camera. I had hoped that the Pentacon was a bit more like an old Canon or Nikon, and just needed TLC. By the time you get the eye level prism, lenses, and repair work done, you've spent a bit more than one might think. And in my opinion, the main piece of gear in the system (the camera body)is junk. But then, I recently purchased a new Fuji GA645zi, and I love it. For a wide to normal medium format all in one auto focus, auto exposure ,auto advance, point and shoot, i think it is fantastic. It's very convienent, and takes great photos. The lens is very sharp and contrasty, and the focus and meter are always dead on. It almost fits in any pocket, and while it isn't as long as the 180mm Sonnar, it won't give you are hernia carrying it around either.

Cheers, Joe

Thank you all. The info has been most helpful.

Joe

I've been using an Epson 1280 for a couple of years and have been

very pleased with the prints. I use mostly fine art prints such as

Hahnemuhle and Lumijet (thick felt,velour, museum parchment,etc).

My question is, that while the ink in the 2200 is said to be much

longer lasting, which is my reason for upgrading to the 2200, I

wonder if the prints be as good with regards to the vibrant colors

that I get with the 1280?

Also, I've read in other threads, that the 2200 has a larger format

than the 1280, but I thought that they were both the same in this

respect.

Any feedback will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Joe

Thanks for the input everyone.

I think I've got an idea on where to begin. I've managed to get some rather nice shots on campus(in Illinois) of some of the main buildings, that have beautiful architecture, in various times of year. Midnight in the snow, right after a spring storm, etc. I've had many requests for enlargements, and want to get my ducks all in a row before I get to involved in selling.

Thanks again,

Joe

Perhaps someone can help me with my question. It has to do with the

legality of selling photographs of various shots that I've taken of

some of the buildings on a local, state university. I'm just

getting started as a professional, and I've had several requests for

many of my photos, that Ive taken over the last few years.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Joe

I'm thinking of beginning some portrait work, and I'm considering

using the Photoflex Starlite Kit with my Canon 10D. I'm not sure if

this is the way to go, or if starting with studio strobes is a

better idea.

Has anyone used this type of lighting for portrait work using either

digital or black and white film?

Any thoughts on the two types of lighting and which is the better?

Thanks, Joe Ethridge