rjkdds

<p>As no one has responded as yet, it looks like HDR, High Dynamic Range techique.<br />The program used is probably Photomatix by HDRsoft. This combines multiple shots at different exposures to bring contrast under control. Im sure there is other postprocessing involved as well.<br /> Im sure others will add to my assessment.<br>

http://www.hdrsoft.com/</p>

<p>Using a polarizer on ultrawides will give you uneven results across the image. Half polarized, half not,,</p>

<p>By cropping so severely, you are throwing away a lot of pixels with the crop, so a 18 megapixel image for example, then becomes a 9 megapixel image. You are then shortchanging the capabilities of your camera<br>

I have a 70-200/2.8 and 100-400/3.5-5.6 and each has its uses. But if you are interested in the longer end, then for sure the 100-400 is the way to go. I also have the 1.4 tele and coupling that with the 70-200 slows down focus lock significantly.<br>

Just my 2 cents</p>

<p>Thank you Jorge,<br>

Very good information, thanks for taking the time to post.<br>

Bob</p>

<p>I had the 10d in the closet gathering dust. I didnt think I needed to upgrade to more current model as sensor rez really isnt a factor in the application. Metering is another story however, but if I can get around it by FEC Im ok with it. I just didnt know if the flash itself was faulty on ETTL metering</p>

<p>All good points.<br>

I had the camera metering mode set to partial center weighted average which in shooting light objects would influence the exposure.. I may switch to spot metering, take a reading and add 1 1/2 compensation on the flash as I have done to confirm this. But usually teeth arent pure white so didnt think it would influence the metering as much as it did. <br>

Thanks for all your help.</p><div></div>

<p>I have a MR14EX ring light that I am mating to a Canon EF100/2.8 macro and EOS10d body.<br>

I set the body to manual, 1/125 at f16 for decent DOF at ISO 100 to do intra-oral dental images and ETTL on the flash.<br>

The exposures come out consistently 1 to 1-1/2 stops UNDEREXPOSED.<br>

I have to do flash compensation +1 or more to get decent exposures.<br>

Is this normal with this flash?</p>

<p>Thank you for all the responses. I should clarify however.<br>

I know the lens itself is compatible with my 10d, I just didn't know if the front barrel extension on focusing would create a problem with a ring flash cord.<br>

My motivation is to repurpose this old body now collecting dust in the closet, for use in my<br>

dental office for documenting intraoral cases.<br>

I do have an old Vivitar ring light that was used on a Nikon N2000 film body, but I'm not<br>

sure if that flash is compatible on Canon ETTL. Do you think this flash would work on my 10d? I dont want to burn it out if the electronics aren't compatible.<br>

What older Canon ring flashes would work prior to the MR14?</p>

<p>What compatibility with the Canon 10d as well as the physical connection to the 100mm/2.8 lens</p>

 

<p>I have an old Canon 10d with 100/2.8 macro lens (NON USM, old type dc motor).<br>

Note this lens is NOT internal focus as the outer element extends out of the barrel on focusing.</p>

<p>What ring flash is compatible with this lens? Would be happy with 3rd party lens or Canon.</p>

<p>Bob</p>

<p>Link to wildlife preserve in Japanese garden entrance is coming out incorrect<br /> mapquest Japanese Gardens, Van Nuys, CA</p>

<p>Did you try switching the focus limiter to the other range? I have found if you are shooting closer than 6.5m and the switch is not in 1.5m mode the lens will hunt for focus and never really lock on leaving OOF shots even as it trips the shutter.</p>

 

<p><strong>CHARGING!!!</strong><br>

<strong>offensive foul....: )<br /></strong></p>

<p>One thing to keep in mind with using a CP on a extreme wide angle lens, is the degree of polarization varies across the field of view.The strength of a polarizer is greatest 90 degrees from the sun, however the field of view of a wide angle lens can be up to 130 degrees or more at 10mm even on a cropped sensor. So expect the effect of a CP to vary across the frame at 10mm</p>

<p>Cory,<br>

I met Jean a few years ago during the summer,, her birthday party actually. She<br>

made me feel quite welcome and shared some cake.. will look for the pix to share<br>

here.<br>

Is her "house" still standing? Are the perches,,, deadwood still there?</p>

<p>Just got the Sports Illustrated Photo issue for the Olympics.<br>

Of the 9 SI photographers, 6 of them were shooting Nikon.<br>

With all the hoopla over the EOS1-MK4, surprising they went with Nikon instead.</p>

<p>A report from Sports Shooter at the Olympics gave it a "favorable" review but with some caveats..<br>

http://www.sportsshooter.com/news/2380</p>

<p>I have an old Nikon N2000 film camera coupled with a specialty macro lens with integrated modified Vivitar 2800 flash head ON the lens similar to a ring flash but a point source instead... I want to upgrade to a digital camera for use in my office.<br>

My question is can I use this flash on the present macro lens with a modern digital camera such as the D90? Im <strong>not sure of the trigger voltage of the Vivitar</strong> or if will damage the D90. There is some conflicting data on this,, The lens is an Elicar V-HQ macro, but provides 2x magnification, unusual for a macro lens. I know I can buy a new macro lens with extension tubes to accomplish 2x and a new ring flash,, but I want to avoid the expense if I can..<br>

Any thoughts on this??</p>

 

<p>I have switched from the Epson 2200 to the 2880 and have a few comments.<br>

First of all, the ink efficiency is much better with the 2880. I can print twice the<br>

amount of prints before changing ink cartridges compared to the 2200. As far as<br>

print quality, the 2880 is a hair better with the new K3 inkset, but I have always been<br>

able to get quality prints from the 2200 with proper use of color management, correct<br>

driver selection and of course monitor calibration. The paper handling of the 2880 is much<br>

better so far as well, with its ability to self feed my choice of Velvet Fine Art paper fed <br>

manually in the rear paper path. Some have mentioned paper jams,, I have not had that problem so far in<br>

the 3 months I have had the printer.<br>

So all in all with the aforementioned $200 rebate, its a nobrainer. Of course the common<br>

PhotoBlack/Matteblack ink swap is still a problem with throwing money down the drain when changing black<br>

cartidges, and I was this close to buying a Canon printer to avoid the problem, but there are other issues<br>

with Canon printers I wished to avoid.<br>

So you can feel confident buying the 2880, its a fine replacement for the 2200.</p>

 

<p>I would do crown lengthening, gingivectomy, Zirconia porcelain veneers on the right quadrant.<br>

The plastic doc would have to do lip recontouring..<br>

OH WAIT,, wrong profession... let me put on my photography hat... ya what Patrick said..<br>

Bob Kogen, DDS</p>

<p>Try to rent Canon 400mm/5.6L. A wonderful lightweight lens useful for wildlife and bird photography.<br>

Sharper than the 100-400mm at a fraction of the weight. Been to Alaska 4 times, and while I use<br>

the 100-400, most of the time Im racked out to 400mm for wildlife.</p>

<p>Another option if you dont want to cut mattes is Aaron Bros which has a 12"x16" frame called the Shakespeare which has LARGE wood panels simulating a matte. Its a beautiful frame and if you buy them during their 1 cent sale you get them for $18 each.</p>

Depends on how fast traffic is moving. Time the movement from point one to point two of the moving cars.

From your example it looks like the blur of the cars from the beginning to the end is about 50 ft. If it takes

"your" traffic 3 seconds to move that distance that is your shutter speed. Adjust the aperture appropriately.

A 60 second exposure may be too long, although this shutter speed will ghost or eliminate pedestrians

completely which may be what you want. Bottom line there is no "correct" shutter speed for this effect as

conditions vary. ISO 100 is fine for this effect but will yield longer shutter speeds. You may want to bracket

it heavily with different shutter speeds to get the effect you want though.

I used to have the same problem when I was connecting to a Viewsonic Multisync monitor. On bootup, the screen was black,

then it synched with a picture, then black to picture 3 or 4 times before it locked in. This sequence took about 30 seconds. The same also occurs with a LCD flat panel but with a quicker transition. It is indeed the video card, and I have learned to live with the idiosyncrasies.

Sometimes I get it right...as in a broken watch has the correct time twice a day.