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simann

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Posts posted by simann

  1. OK OK OK!! I don't want to start a war between the Blad and TLR factions, (350 Pounds for a 500c Harvey if that's pre war price you got a deal, http://www.click-smilies.de/sammlung0903/grinser/grinning-smiley-004.gif ) BTW a true Englishman drinks tea not coffee. I don't want to condemn anything out of hand without first trying it for myself, so I will endeavourer to blag a Blad from somewhere and report back, OK.
  2. I had my suspicions that the Hasselblad albeit an excellently manufactured camera, had its shortcomings from vibration, that is why I asked the question in the first place, and a couple of owners on this thread have confirmed this. Also Harvey, when I spend this sort of money on a camera, I expect my pictures to be a lot better than "Good or Usable". Having said that, I still intend to try one for myself (if I can) before taking the plunge.
  3. R. Miller (your names not Roger by any chance) Yes a Rangefinder did come into the equation, Contax, Leica or Hexar, but we are talking serious money here, something I don't have. I also like the quality of the 6X6 cameras, we only have one decent camera shop where I live, and trying to borrow anything from them is like trying to get blood out of a stone.
  4. I thought that might be the case, although never having tried one or knowing anyone with a Hasselblad, I could not test it for myself. Over the last few months I have decided to go (apart from my little Canon A60) fully Middle Format, selling all my SLR's because of this problem of camera shake through mirror slap. Most of my photos are taken hand held, in situations where a Tripod or Mono pod is just not practical,and I am loosing too many films through slight blur. Two of the cameras on my short list were the Hasselblad and the TLR Rolleiflex, but if I am going to have the same trouble with the Hass. as with my current lot, then its going to be the Rollei for me. I did order one last week, but the deal fell through, so I am still on the lookout.
  5. Never having used a Hasselblad, can someone answer me one question.

    Does the camera work on the same mirror principle as a 35mm SLR, if

    so what about camera shake on pressing the shutter, is it excessive

    if hand held, or do they use a different system.

  6. Thanks guys. I think I will go with the portra 400 UC for now as the weather is very cloudy and will be for the next few days at least, and I need to get one or two rolls through in the first week (guarantee), and maybe if I get the time a roll of 160VC and hope for some sun. I shall leave the cleaning until later and see how the camera performs as is, if its OK and the prints are fine so what, the screen is not that dirty, and everything else works nice and smooth. The last owner must have really looked after it.
  7. I have just purchased my first TLR (Rolleiflex T model from about

    1960) it arrives next week. Although I tend to shoot a lot of black

    and white film, I would like to put a couple of rolls of colour film

    through it as a start, just to compare it with my SLR. I would

    appreciate any advice on which film to buy, shooting mainly mountain

    scenery and some street people shots. Also the viewing screen looks

    a bit dirty although the lenses are nice and clean, is this a DiY

    job, or should I leave it to an expert.

  8. Thank you all for taking the trouble to answer my query, I think I've got the gist of it now, and I suppose you are right the Lab does make adjustments to some of my rubbish inputs, at a price. I do in fact have a small digital camera (Canon A60)but haven't used it much up until now. I did want to replace my old Film SLR's with a "Grown Up" digital SLR model, Possibly the EOS 300D, then again a friend of mine said to hang on as there would be a 10 meg pix Canon coming up soon, (don't know where he got that info from), you just can't win can you. I will go digital that's for sure, its just a question of when.

    Regards Simon.

  9. Ok, I'm contemplating going digital, but I read of so many problems

    with this medium at the moment its not a very easy decision to make.

    So, say I spend somewhere in the region of Euro 1500 for an SLR

    digital camera only to find that I need to spend another large

    amount on a computer photo program to correct all the things that

    this Hi tech. instrument can't accomplish at the time of taking the

    photograph to produce an acceptable end product, One of the Things

    I'm talking about is White balance, which seems to be quite a

    problem at the moment on all except the small PaS cameras. (by the

    way can anyone explain to me in plain English, just what is White

    Balance,). Is it worth it, or do I stick to Film???

  10. I have just bought this model from my local photo shop today (EUR 49 used) and was looking for the manual for it, but haven't found one as yet. Its pretty self explanatory, except for the "EV" display, this I don't understand can anyone help with this please.<div>0071UL-16065384.jpg.f419e4523dd4519846901878c4ef0f05.jpg</div>
  11. Where can I download an instruction Manuel for the OM 10. OK, I know

    its child's play but it would be nice. 2nd Question, I have a

    Cullmann SL 28 flash unit, it seems to work OK with this Camera (no

    film ) but is it really OK!!

  12. Jon. Thanks for the info, I tried the search on ebay but failed to find your site, (although I did see another site selling the kits). Yes if this is a DIY solution I would be willing to purchase a Seal kit, the question is of course payment as I am in Austria, I can't use Paypal from here the only method is by credit card but for such a small amount some people will not accept this. Is adhesive supplied with the kit??
  13. Jeffrey.

    Many thanks for your very informative input. I have been having another close look at the A1 over the weekend, I am of the opinion that it is the back of the camera that is at fault. The foam seal around the narrow edges looks OK, but the stuff at each end ( lock and hinge end) is well worn, and when closed has about 1-2mm of play side to side and you can press down the same amount at the lock end with very little pressure, however to isolate the problem (back or front) I will tape up the back, run a film through it, changing lenses from time to time, and see what develops (excuse the pun) after processing. I will post the results at that time. If it is the back then I think I will leave it to an expert to fix, as the hinge and lock could do with an overhaul as well.

    Thanks I found the back posts regarding the seals.

    Best Regards, and a Merry Christmas.

    Simon.

  14. I think I should have expanded on the problem with a bit more detail. The streaks on the prints are Red whereas on the negatives they show up as Green. There is quite a bit of play between the back plate (no window) and the camera body, I think this is the problem when I press too hard, or in one particular spot on the back plate with my thumb to wind on for instance. the foam around the edges stopping the light from getting in is a bit tatty and could do with replacing. So it looks like this will have to be replaced and also the camera backplate hinge. Meanwhile I will try the Black Tape solution until I can get it fixed.

    Simon.

  15. I have a Canon A1, I recently received a roll of film back from

    processing and on about three or four of the prints and negs are red

    streaks running from top to bottom in the middle of the print. I am

    not sure but I suspect this is a light leak in the camera body

    (although I can't see anything). Where could this be coming from, is

    it a known problem with this camera, and is this a shop repair, and

    why only on a few photos from the roll.

    I hope someone knows the answer to this.

    Simon.

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