david_s4

Hello Eddie,

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That is an interesting idea. Can you reach Half Dome easily from someplace along Tioga Pass Road, like Tenaya Lake? It would be great to be able to take something like a bus to the start of your route, so we wouldn't have to leave a car up there.

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Also, are there trails that lead to Half Dome along your route, or did you just navigate your own way? Cheers, David

Hello Bob,

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The link above appears to describe the easiest route. I have been researching this location as well. The poster's advice to check at the Mountaineering School at Curry Village is a good one. Note that some people call the curved overhanging ledge at the top of Half Dome the Diving Board, but maps properly identify the location on the western face.

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A climber who works at REI told me that the approach to Snake Dike, which is a technical climbing route near the Diving Board, takes him 3+ hours, but he: (1) knows the way, (2) is in climbing condition, (3) has a light pack and (4) doesn't take pictures along the way. We thought it would take a photographer 5+ hours to reach the Diving board from the Happy Isles trailhead. Allotting 1-2 hours at the top plus 3+ hours for the hike back implies a 10 hour round-trip. This time of year, sunset is around 7pm, so if you want to return before it gets dark, that means starting out before 9am.

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There is freshwater at the bridge under Vernal Falls, but that is less than an hour into the route. That means you have to bring 8 hours worth of food and water, or about 3-4 liters. Lost Lake looks like the last place to filter, but I have read it described as a mud puddle, so the top of Nevada Falls may be the last filter stop.

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The REI climber told me about another route that diverts left partway up the Mist Trail and traverses up a valley between Mt Watkins and Liberty Cap. He said this route was quicker, but trickier if you don't know the best way, and possibly involved more scrambling.

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Make sure you go prepared, good luck and show us your photos!

 

Cheers, David

Hello Matt,

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For photos of funky people, visit Haight-Ashbury, known from the 1960's for Hippies and Beatniks.

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If you have a car or other easy transportation...

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For photos of the city, I like locations highlighted in Hitcock's 1958 film <a href="http://www.basichip.com/vertigo/main.htm">Vertigo</a>, such as Mission Dolores, Fort Point (better light before noon), the Palace of Fine Arts (also better light before noon), and the Palace of the Legion of Honor.

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There's a nice 360 degree view of the city from the tower at the <a href="http://www.deyoungmuseum.org/">de Young</a> museum. Admission to the tower is free. It's in Golden Gate park near the Japanese Tea Garden. The garden is nice too, but costs $4; however it is free at certain times (not sure, but maybe 9-10am MWF and/or after 4pm daily). Check out the sign at the entry for the free hours.

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Good views of the Golden Gate Bridge are from the Marin Headlands, just across the bridge to the north, and Baker Beach. Fair warning though: it is a nudist beach at the northeast end, which is closer to the bridge. Both locations may be better after noon, as you're on the western side.

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Sausalito is good for about an hour's visit if you want to browse touristy shops. There's a very small hamburger place (it has no name, but I remember a green awning) in the middle of the strip that is quite tasty. Get a burger to go and eat on the edge of the harbor nearby.

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And yes, the restaurants on Columbus should be visited frequently...

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Cheers, David

Scott, there is a step-by-step tutorial on <a href="http://www.gimp.org/tutorials/ContrastMask/">Creating a Contrast Mask</a>, along with other useful techniques for <a href="http://www.gimp.org/tutorials/#Photo">Photo Editing</a>, at the <a href="http://www.gimp.org/.">gimp.org</a> site.

I recently discovered Saul Leiter's NYC work and thought I would

share. I don't know what equipment he used, other than being 35mm, but

I consider it within the Leica style and worthy of posting. I love his

technique: not traditional composition at all.

<p>

Visit the <a href="http://www.howardgreenberg.com/">Howard Greenberg

Gallery</a> and click the "LAUNCH SITE" text in the middle of the

page. A Flash site opens in a new window. Select the "SAUL LEITER:

Early Color" exhibit. I recommend you click "view full images" along

the bottom navbar and then "enlarge image" on the subsequent page.

The article differentiates 100 from 100F in more than one place:

<blockquote><i>Fujichrome Velvia 100 boasts an RMS* granularity of 8**, a significant improvement over Velvia 50 and ranking it alongside other Fujifilm professional film products, such as Fujichrome Astia 100F, Fujichrome Provia 100F and Fujichrome <b>Velvia 100F</b> as the finest grained in its speed class.</i></blockquote>

<blockquote><i>X-Coupler technology: A unique cyan coupler developed by Fujifilm and employed in such products as <b>Velvia 100F</b>.</i></blockquote

<blockquote><i>The multi-color correction layers that contribute to faithful color reproduction in Fujichrome <b>Velvia 100F</b> have been reworked to function as color extension layers in Velvia 100.</i></blockquote>

My first Leica forum post nearly a year ago: <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=006m6L">MP Advance Lever and Flash Shoe Touch</a>.

That's an interesting thought Scott. I do want to scan at some point, though I don't own a scanner as yet. I'll have to dig through the archives to learn more about higher-speed color print film choices, how they compare to the recommendations here regarding grain and contrast, and the best home-use film scanners. Is your preference based on having the option to present in color or because of better characteristics (say, improved shadow detail)?

Thanks for the great and educational replies folks. I was hoping a consensus would emerge, but your suggestions of Tri-X/Diafine, Delta/Xtol, Acros, XP2, Neopan, TMZ and HP5+ are plenty to get started. I'll probably end up following Bob's guidance and find the look I like after several attempts. And the posts are great: Mike, that middle shot looks like a painting!

I've read over the archives but not found much in the way of recent

recommendations for B&W specific to city night photography. I'm

looking for best film choices that balance small(ish) grain and good

contrast (is higher or lower better at night?) and tonality. I'd

appreciate any developing advice also.

<p>

There will be narrow streets lit by window light and street lamps,

with people in and around entranceways and sidwalks. I'll be

hand-holding a 35mm camera with a 35/2 lens, so maybe 1/30 sec max.

I'm not sure what speed I'll have to rate to reach this, but maybe

around 1600 (let me know if you have better thoughts on this). Thanks!

I agree with Kevin about Flash. IMHO, it also distracts from (your very rich) content.

There seems to be a similar quirky ethic, if you will, to Lomo and Holga photography. The Lomo is small format, metal and glass, and US$200 (half that on eBay), while the Holga is medium format, plastic and plastic, and US$17. I'm willing to pay if there's good reason, but not if there isn't (doh), so what can anyone (Trevor?) advise to recommend one or the other?

I asked Leica USA, Sherry Krauter and DAG just this question, and the consensus reply was that the 'anti-slipping tension' is no more than a slightly tightened (relative to M2 or M3) rewind mechanism. Mine unwinds rather freely if I release the knob during rewind, but don't find it worth sending in over.

I've read that 400 speed film is a good all-around choice for a Holga, given it's fixed aperture (about f/8) and shutter speed (about 1/100). I favor color film, usually something like Astia. Can anyone recommend a 400 speed negative or slide color film that they've had good luck with?

Jeff, are you referring to <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=008mwB">this thread</a> on Outdoor Photographer magazine?

Al, a bokeh ring with b/stops exists on at least 2 (well-regarded) lenses: the <a href="http://nikonusa.com/template.php?cat=1&grp=5&productNr=1932">105</a> and <a href="http://nikonusa.com/template.php?cat=1&grp=5&productNr=1935">135</a> f/2 DC Nikkors.

Regarding strap marks, I use the fixed-length canvas Cosina/Voigtlander strap noted at the end of <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=007dXe">this prior thread</a> and have had none. I do however place a narrow strip of gaffer's tape along the inner left-hand strap-end to prevent the film rewind knob from chafing at the leather.

Weren't you one of The Monkees once?

I've been reading Dave Beckerman's Weblog (<a href="http://davebeckerman.com/blog/">current</a> and

<a href="http://davebeckerman.com/general/Journal.html">archives</a>) on & off for a couple of years now. He's commented several times that he changes tools every few years to what works best for him at that time. I don't think he posts his reasons to convince, or request approval, but to inform readers about how he makes decisions as a (now) professional photographer. Read the 3 updates at his <a href="http://davebeckerman.com/general/Leica.html">Leica M6 Review</a> or his <a href="http://davebeckerman.com/general/About.html">About</a> page. It reads reasonable to me.

Sorry Al, but I couldn't help myself.

Thanks for the pointers Lee. Photo-Eye currently offers the book at a <a href="http://www.photoeye.com/templates/mShowDetailsbycat.cfm?Catalog=BF056">10%</a> discount, and the least expensive Amazon Used & New is about <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/offer-listing/0821219863/ref=dp_pb_a//104-3090086-4139958?condition=all">$US80</a> (not new). Strangely, several copies are priced above retail. Go figure. I'll keep a watch out though.

Several folks in this and the <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0096Ad">Best C-B Books</a> thread mention <i>HC-B: Photographer</i>. And as pointed out, B&N has a (limited?) supply of remainders for about <a href="http://search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/isbninquiry.asp?ISBN=0641533985">US$50</a>. Does anyone have one of these, and can you comment on whether or how the cover or page edge is <a href="http://www.barnesandnoble.com/popup/index.asp?PID=4639&userid=Yf7poLq9fg">marked</a>?

Stephen and Peter, you may benefit from trying a digital (rather than darkroom) contrast mask. Luminous Landscape describes the technique (<a href="http://luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-series/u-contrast-masking.shtml">recent</a> and <a href="http://luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/contrast_masking.shtml">earlier</a> versions).

A <a href="http://www.bartleby.com/61/27/C0132700.html">pronunciation guide</a> or direct link to a .wav <a href="http://www.bartleby.com/61/wavs/27/C0132700.wav">audio file</a>.

B+W calls their silver MRC filter line "Digital Pro." I don't know if it uses the "F-Pro" slim mount, as I don't have any other B+W filters to compare. But it fits a 35 Summicron ASPH with hood fine. I got mine at <a href="http://www.robertwhite.co.uk/accessories.htm#LabelBWFilters">Robert White</a>.