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david_hansen8

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Posts posted by david_hansen8

    Stopping down??

    in Nikon

    Posted

    Larry, I'm not sure why you would have to stop-down at all. Unless I'm missing something, the Tokina 24-200 is a CPU lens which means that metering should work fine on the D70. Just remember to set the lens aperature ring to the minimum aperature (f/22) and use the command/sub dials on the D70 to set the aperature.

    Help with lighting setup

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    Mark, if you're going to scan them anyway, shoot in color and then convert to B&W in Photoshop so you can show her the difference.

    <br><br>

    Also, I would do a prone pose, model on her left side parallel to the keyboard (to show the curve of hips and shoulder) with her right hand reaching down to the keys.

    <br><br>

    You may also want to rent The Fabulous Baker Boys, as I understand that Ms. Pfieffer crawls all over a piano in that movie.

    <br>

    <img src=http://fabulousbakers.tripod.com/ab/bakerboys/images/fab188.jpg><br><img src=http://fabulousbakers.tripod.com/ab/bakerboys/images/FAB299.jpg>

    Filters and an unpleasant experience

    in Accessories

    Posted

    HP Marketing has their head up their... well, you know. <br><br>They have a legal case against the illegal import and sale of Heliopan products (what are known as grey-market items) - as the sole licensed distributor, and US trademark owner. But they CAN NOT keep you from selling products you aquired legally, particularly if it is a used product. And if it's a Heliopan filter you are selling, you have every right to call it a Heliopan filter. <br><br>BTW, the customs office has better things to do than tracking down and confiscating a shipment of 1 filter. <br><br>The spirit of Section 526 (a) of the US Tariff Act of 1930 is to stop the mass import of "grey market" items. <br><br>The reason why things such as Nikon, Canon and other similar products are not covered by this act is that the US trademark holders are sufficiently conected to the foreign manufacturers as to be considered a subsidiary. <br><br>This email would be like Ford telling you that you can't list your car as a Ford because it infringes on their tradmark. <br><br>An interesting explanation can be found <a href=http://www.duanemorris.com/articles/article1395.html>here</a>.

    newbie buying used equipment

    in Accessories

    Posted

    Shana, do you mean your first SLR interchangable lens camera, or first manual focus SLR? Also, if you have a particular brand and model in mind, I'm sure you could get great advice on what to look for in that specific model.

     

    I would also recommend buying used from an actual store (as opposed to an eBay individual) as you usually get a warranty (ask about that before you buy).

     

    As far as general advice - brassing (where the paint/coating has worn off) is usually okay. Quite a few cameras, particularly metal-bodied have a leather/leatherette exterior finish that can peel off, but really this only affects the look of the camera and not its function (unless it's too slipper to hold onto). Dents, dings, bends, loose knobs/buttons, rattles, etc. would best be avoided.

    Murphy & the Law....

    in Wedding & Event

    Posted

    Marc, if I ever find myself at a wedding you're shooting, I'll be sure to keep at least 50 feet between the two of us at all times - please don't take it personally.

     

    Excellent stories, btw. I probably would have needed back-up underwear after seeing my Hassey bouncing down the stairs.

    canon 28-105 usm II

    in Accessories

    Posted

    I remember being shocked at how much "play" there was on my Canon 70-300 USM zoom - and I bought that one new. It didn't seem to really affect anything, but it is disconcerting.

     

    I think the answer here is "they do that" and you shouldn't worry about it unless you can't get consistent images from the lens.

    Getting good neg scans with Minolta 5400?

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    I too have had some issues when scanning B&W negs. I've found that my best scans have been done when scanning Ilford XP2. I scan Kodak TC400N as a color negative (grain dissolver off!) to get good results. And I know I've gotten good results with other Ilford films.

     

    I haven't yet tried VueScan or Silverfast, but I've heard great things about both. After paying almost $800 for a scanner, I'm not going to spend another $100 or so on software until I know the included software inside and out.

     

    My recommendation is to pick one of your favorite negs, then scan the heck out of it at every different setting and adjustment you can think of before buying more software.

    ambiant+flash+flashmeterV

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    Good night! Ok, I went and read the flash metering portion of your manual so I could figure out what you're tyring to ask.

     

    As far as I can tell your meter will always give a digital readout of combined ambient and flash exposure, and there's no way to make it display (digitally) just the flash reading (unless you're in a pitch black room when you meter the flash). However, there are a LOT of things your manual doesn't explain - so maybe you can change the display - read your manual thoroughly.

     

    Why not use the analog scale (it shows apertures in 1/2 stops) to accomplish your task of getting the ambient light to 1 stop difference from flash? Set your meter to the shutter speed you want, then boost or lower your flash output until the scale shows flash and ambient at 1-stop apart, then bracket the shots.

    Problems with the D70?

    in Nikon

    Posted

    My guess is that this happens at high shutter speeds because of the angle that the light is hitting the sensor - not enough green on the right or red on the left.

     

    Is there any correllation between lens length and the strength of the color distortion?

    Photoflex LiteDisc sizes and color for portraits

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    Timber,

     

    I'm afraid I have to take issue with blue sky light portion of your comment. Sunlight on a cloudless day, after dawn and before dusk, is white (full spectrum). The sky is blue, but the light is white. A yellow bounce will reflect yellow light under these conditions.

     

    Also, you're combining Additive Primary Colors (light - as in your computer moniter - the primaries being Red Green and Blue) with Subtractive Primary Colors (pigment/dye - Yellow, Blue, Red).

     

    Pure blue light, combined with yellow will look incredibly dark, if not black. The same is true with Red and Cyan. (Think black and white photography with a red or yellow filter.)

    How to fit Lumiquest Big Bounce

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    You can buy the Lumiquest Velcro straps from B&H or Adorama. They are about $8.00 each. They are basically a velcro tournaquet with a rubber backing that you strap on your flash head. The one's I recieved were black (<a href="http://www.adorama.com/LQCS.html?searchinfo=lumiquest%20strap&item_no=1">in this photo</a>, it is white for some reason).

     

    Or, you can stop by your local hardware store and pick up some adhesive backed velcro to permanently attach to your flashes.

    flexible creative lighting...

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    Why not buy an ST-E2? It will let you use both 550's off camera and control the ratios. Also, the stands that come with 550's (the little foot) does have a standard size tripod mount which can help with creative placement. Also, you can make or buy light modifiers on the cheap. Which you can use velcro to attach to the flashes.
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