pto189

I use Hoya filters on all lenses. Your filter is defective. You can try by using a metal bar to push it back in place. A flat head screw driver is too sharp and could leave a mark on the ring. I bought my camera and lenses from B&H but have never returned an item, so I don't know that we have to pay for return shipping. If the item is defective, a good dealer should send your a prepaid postage returning label. Read their return policy carefully and talk to them.

Make sure Adorama offers full refund if you're not satisfied. Buy and try. If it looks and works perfectly, keep it. Otherwise, return it. I buy virtually everything refurbished. Some are perfect; others with minor blemishes. People say a refurbished item is better than new because it has been inspected and adjusted to manufacturer spec. If it is true, then who will buy brand new?

I'm shopping this Ultra wide angle lens with large aperture and need

advices regarding the opical quality and other factors. In addition,

does Sigma have only one version? I saw B&H and Adorama selling for

$899, but at 17th St. Photo and Advanced Photo Source, they are

selling for only $759. I don't believe B&H price is $140 higher. All

four stores are very reliable. Except Canon EF 14mm f/2,8, which is

very expensive, is there a comparable lens? Thank you.

Thank you Jim and Mark. So I can use 12mm tube, but 25mm tube is definitely better, right?

Thanks Thomas. I've found it. Will Canon Extension Tube EF 12 II be long enough? Or do I need the 25mm extension tube?

I would like to use the Canon EF 1.4x II with Canon EF 100mm f/2.8

Macro USM and Tamron SP AF 28-75mm F/2.8 XR Di. I have seen a threat

that suggested an adapter but couldn't find it. Can someone help me?

Thank you.

For either DRebel or especially DRebel XT, the 550EX is too big and too heavy. If you bought DRebel the old one, you need to download Russian software to use the 420EX. Otherwise, the combination of DRebel and 420EX will give you disappointed result. I don't know about the new DRebel Xt. They should have fixed the problem with 420EX. I would buy either 420EX or 580EX. If you think 580EX is too high now, wait for another 6 months or a year.

I agree with Steve especially, "lighting is a very complex issue." I think photography is about lighting. I am a beginner to SLR and DSLR. Everything is relatively easy except lighting. I still can't see the difference between 20D built-in flash and 580EX within the range of built-in flash. I have 580EX instruction manual. Mr. From Earth, if you need a few pages, I'll be more than happy to scan and email them to you.

He bought the 580EX two years ago. The first version doesn't include

instruction manual.

BTW, can you take a pic of all your completely stocked arsenal and show us. I love to see all of them together. Thanks.

Sell your 17-40, 28-70, and 70-200 f4, then buy 16-35 and 24-70.

What do you think? Do Stores make $600 profit in selling each Canon 20D? They can sell on ebay a brand new 20D for $1200 today. Why do they want to sell it to you for $759?

Canon EF100mm f/2.8 Macro USM<br>

Canon EF100mm f/2.8 Macro USM<br>

Canon EF100mm f/2.8 Macro USM<br><p>

I cast three votes for this lens.

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If you try to buy this item, you'll get the above message. To buy stuffs from Amazon, please keep in mind that a good seller must register and provide his information such as name, address, phone, email, and bank rounting number and account number. On the other hand, if you buy items at amazon, you should only pay amazon but not the seller. If the seller asks you to deal with them directly, don't do it because he is 99.99% fake. Try to email the seller, and you'll find out the truth.

Get Rebel XT and 18-55. If you don't like the lens, sell it on ebay and buy 17-40. Don't buy 17-85 IS.

This tele extender can be used with fixed focal length lenses 135mm and longer (except the 135mm f/2.8 Softfocus lens), and the EF 70-200 f/2.8L, 70-200 f/2.8L IS, 70-200 f/4.0L, and 100-400 f/4.5-5.6L IS zoom lenses.

If you make money from your 20D, buy Canon 24-70. If you use your camera for fun, buy Tamron 28-75. If you want to buy 17-40, sell your 10-22. If you want to keep your 10-22, buy 17-85. You don't buy 17-40 and keep 10-22. Except you have specific need, you don't buy 24-70 or 70-200 IS and many other non Canon L glasses. It doesn't make any sense to spend $1200 for 24-70 and $1600 for 70-200 IS. If you're a newbie, like me, you don't see the difference between Canon 24-70 ans Tamron 28-75. They're really close with our skills. Again since you bought the 10-22, you should stick with EF-S series. Buy the 17-85. It's just as good as the 24-70 in your hands with 20D. They're soft with 20D without Photoshop CS.

I can make copies the pages you need and send them to you. Let me know.

Bob, EOS-3 has three groups of three dashes to indicate the status of the battery 2CR5. I checked the battery on Monday, and it showed full charge. Within three days, the battery has gone from full to empty. My concern is possible internal power connection failure although it is unlikely. In addition, it is rare that a 6-volt battery drops bellow 1 volt. Usually when a battery drops 30% of it full voltage, we have to replace a new one. I'll buy a new 2CR5 today and test the camera in one week. Thank you for your help.

Thank you Steve. You're right. I didn't notice that even the camera is on, the battery power is used for the LCD screen only. It's just like a digital watch that even a button battery could last for years. I could have a bad 2CR5 battery because I put my camreras and lenses in a locked camera cabinet. I love this wonderful camera so don't want it to die too soon.

Does EOS-3 have auto power off feature? I can't find anywhere in the manual. After switching back and forth the power grip between LR6 and 2CR5, I can turn on the camera now using 4 AA batteries in the power grip. However, the 2CR5 has only less than 1 volt. I might leave the camera on for three days and thus drained the 2CR5 slowly. It's strange that EOS-3 doesn't have auto power off!

I bought a used EOS-3. Loaded the first roll of film (24 Exp). The

camera rewinded after 14 shots. Loaded the second roll. It rewinded

after 15 shots. Loaded the third roll. This time camera finished

shooting all 24 exposures. I spent the last three days with my 20D.

Tonight I loaded another roll into the EOS-3. Nothing happened, no

power. I tried to use the battery grip with two different power

sources, still no power. Tested the 2CR5. Battery is ok. Try without

the grip, no power. Is there any secret switch that I don't know. I

didn't touch anything and only used the camera indoor. Can any one

help me? Thank you.

>>Why risk it for $80?<< Exactly. I called and asked Canon. They clearly told me that grey market Canon products are not under USA warranty. However, my frend sent his dRebel for service, they only asked the invoice with authorized dealer and valid purchased date. Apprantly there is a hole in Canon policy. My experience is that if you decide to buy grey, you must buy from an absolutely reliable dealer. B&H has the service facility that can handle services for all grey items they sold. however, If I were buying the 70-200 2.8 IS, I wouldn't bother to save $80. I have too much painful experience about 3rd party repair. In general, all factory repairs are reliable from Sony, JVC, Toshiba to Pioneer, Canon, HP... 3rd party repairs are very unreliable except a few companies such as Circuit City and CompUSA. The truth is that Circuit City and CompUSA send many repair orders to factory anyway. I repaired many electronic products so I know the hassle of repairing them. First, you need the service manual including schematic that usually costs $45-$75. And they're not always available. For example, Canon has the service manual for A1, but the copies for sale are out of print, and so on. Imagine that even if B&H honors warranty of the grey item they sold, say the 70-200 IS, the technician has never repaired this lens before. He needs to spend time to play arround with your lens. If he messed it up, he will try to conceal it that you won't know.<br><p>Any thing can happen at B&H repair shop. Canon could reject to repair your lens because their policy says no. So why risk it for $80 to buy the legendary Canon EF 70-200 f2.8/L IS?

>>Don't allow yourself to be swayed by internet banter...<<<br><p>

I have been thinking between a set of L lense and a set of EF-S & DO lenses. I think both have their strengths and weaknesses. I have no doubt that Cannon is trying to develop a set of lenses for digital cameras that use 1.6x sensors. It's also apparent that Canon cannot put multi million dollars into their lab to develop EF-S L lenses becasue they cannot even predict the future of those lenses. I believe that it's our dream to have the EF 17-85 L IS with the size and weight of the EF-S. But it is scientifically, engineeringly, optically impossible. They must give up something to achieve their goal: compact with IS.<br><p>If one decides to go with EF-S 10-22, 17-85, and 70-300 DO, I don't think that person is wrong. But if she bought 17-85, she must continue to buy 10-22 and 70-300 DO. Otherwise, she would sell the 17-85 and go for L series. On the other hand, if one thinks EF-S and DO are overpriced, except 18-55, they're not wrong. similar to that 65 macro is the digital version of 100 macro, 17-85 IS is the digital 28-135 IS, 10-22 compared to 20-35, and so on. Those lenses are compact and some with IS, but are priced as L lenses with no L lenses quality.<br><p>It is your choice to have a compact and versatile lens with risk if Canon fails in keeping the new line production. If you believe that EF-S and DO is the way to go, stick with it and enjoy of not having to carry the combination of 20D and 24-70 on your neck. If you're more conservative, then stick with L lenses, but do not forget the take a box of Salonpas (*) with you.<br><p>Most importantly, this is a forum. Please kindly discuss about photograpgy with no offensive attitudes. Photography is fine arts, and it should be color blind to race, religion, and political veiw point. Don't you agree?

Jeremy, where are Mark Plonsky's explanations?