ken_jeanette

The "wife ran off" story, sounds similar to the husband ran off with secretary, and shocked wife selling his Porsche Carrera for $500.

 

In any event, they are all scams, and urban legends. If you actually send money to that ad, I have a bridge for sale cheap, you just have to come to Brooklyn to pick it up

"it is the one and only SLR camera that will provide TTL metering (and the choice between spot and average!) no matter which type of interchangeable viewfinder is installed!!"

Not true. Ever tried a Pentax LX? It will meter even without interchangeable viewfinder installed and even without focusing screen installed. It even meters during exposure".

 

I realize you are correct in your assertion, but when talking about underrated cameras, check the price points between LX and EE2. Even if you correct for inflation between the 2 release dates, I would say the Miranda would be at least half the price of the LX. Now that's underrated!

I would second the nominadion of the Miranda DX3 because I personally love the camera. However, Miranda gave up a lot by dropping the removable prism. I would have to say the Miranda Autosensorex EE2 is the choice I would make for the most underrated camera. It was a very thin, holdable instrument, with all the bells and whistles of the Nikon F, and added shutter preferred auto exposure, spot metering, tons of accessories. All at half the price. Such a deal!

In the early to mid sixties, many of the large camera companies tried leaf shutter SLR's Some with Porro-Prism, some with glass prism. An example is Nikon's Auto35, which I owned. They were good entry level cameras. Their main downfall was that they were somewhat delicate, and prone to needing repair.

Excellent precision instruments. Excellent glass. Outrageous price.

 

Even the Japanese Si series are usually three times the cost of similar items without the Alpa name.

 

I regard it as photographic jewelery, and bypass.

I guess I worded my reply incorrectly. I also meant to use the few reputable US sellers of FSU cameras (Fedka, Kievcamera, etc). I didn't mean individuals selling on Ebay.

Very Fun cameras to use at the price. Very good optics. I would however stick with the US sellers. It may cost you more than evilbay, but you have a warm body to deal with should there be problems. I think it is fedka that will swap out cameras if you should get a dud.

Marc,

 

You can use this link to take a look at the original instruction manual, although these beasts are pretty self explanatory

 

http://www.butkus.org/chinon/bolsey_b2/bolsey_b2.htm

Forest dwellers also have a soul

First and foremost in my list of things to look at is the battery compartment. People tend to leave batteries in flashes, and they leak. Check for signs of it having been cleaned (green powdery stuff on the contacts, even the ones deep in the body of the flash). If a battery has leaked in the unit, I would pass it by, unless the price is very much in your favor.

the lens is obviously totally useless according to everyone's opinion. Send it along to me, and I will dispose of it properly.

Wrong, that's Pat Bonotar, the rock singer.

What a "fine mess" you all made of this gentleman's posting

Dang, I had about 20 of these cameras a that I picked up at a flea market for about two dollaws for the whole box--that was about 17 years ago. I let my 5 year old play photographer with them, and we developed some of the rolls. Results were predictable, Diana-ish.

Like feeding time in a SHARK TANK ;)

This is sort of off the subject, but when I first became interested in photography, (30years ago) my office was accross the street from The Bridgeport, CT main library. They had, it seemed, every photographic magazine ever published in bound books in their stacks. I spent every lunch there for 2 years poring over those old magazines. On Friday, an older gentleman would come into the art room, and sit at the grand piano, and play for the hour I was there. The ads and articles were fascinating. This thread has brought back some great memories.

Another vote for the Ikonta, and can you clone it and send one to each of us who helped you decide

The thread about repairing the "problem" is correct, except that these things do not usually wear out. My XG1 came to me with the same thing happening. I think the rewind cranks loosen with time, and then the owners don't take the time to put them back together correctly. It's just a little sliver of metal that sandwiches the crank together to the rewind knob. If your eyes are bad like mine, it can be a bit of a pain to reseat, but it will reassemble and correct the problem, unless the sliver of metal is missing.

Just a thought, have you ever tried the plastic developing holders. Commonly called Lasagna because of their similarity to the pasta.

 

I haven't done any developing in some years, but I remember using the lasagna with success for 120

Does anyone have first hand experience purchasing items from ARAXfoto

in Ukraine?

You might want to try one of the Russian Kiev 60 units. Lenses are sharp, and the body will at least be as reliable as the Pentacon 6 and probably cost you less

I've seen some pro Photographers tie a piece of ladies nylon stocking across the front of a powerful flash to soften it.

 

Not to mention the fun getting that stocking!

Red,

 

Just remember, there are only two types of computer users.

 

Those who have lost data, and those who will.

 

You aren't alone in having your stuff gone, so just kick back with your favorite liquid mood enhancer, and take it in stride.

Or you could use it as is, and grow a third eye from the radiation. It might help with "photographic vision".

Another thought.

Imagine a stationary sphere (daguerrotype), within a rotating shpere (camera), with 3 lens/shutter sets placed equidistant down the circumference of the outer sphere (45, 90, and 135 degrees from the vertical axis), they open as the outer sphere begins rotation, and close at end of rotation, each exposing an arc on the surface of the stationary sphere.

You probably need a third element within the outer sphere just above the stationary sphere, that provides the dark box, and slit that moves over the surface of the inner sphere (to mask light from adjacent areas as the lens moves.)

This is totally non-technical, just some random thoughts.

 

If you conceptualize the spinning panoramic cameras, they rotate around a point, so the lens as it traverses the circle, exposes a sliver of film all the way around.

 

Now you would be asking the lens to expose a solid, rather than a flat plane.

 

Given that, your mechanical mechanism would have to take the lens around the circumference of the sphere, with the focal point on the surface of the sphere.

 

Visualize a train going around a curcular track, exposing the surface of film, not at the center, but some distance from the inside edge.

 

Once you have that mechanism built, you then have to develop a way to expose the polar regions of the sphere, once again, requiring a lens that does not focus on a flat plane.

 

I think, that if the focal length of the lens reached it at all, there might not be much falloff in brightness, because the diameter in the polar regions is smaller, hence the light would strike that portion of the surface longer, as it traversed the girth of the center.

 

Interesting question, let's assume you get this done, what are you going to do with your picture basketball?