john_jovic

"Hi there all,

I was wondering if anyone has had an EOS Digital body "expire" on them. I have the 10D and the 20D, and the recomemded shutter cycle is stated at 15000 cycles. I have shot about 100000 on each camera and there seems to be little damage done. So my question is, has anyone had a Prosumer EOS Digital body give up on them mechanically, and if so, what were the first or main symptoms.

Thanks

GlenRoy"

Did he sit there holding the shutter button down whilst counting the exposures and watching Oprah? I can't see how he got any work done AND kept track of how many exposures his bodies have shot.

I have absolutely no clue how many frames I've shot, other than that I've worn out at least one shutter.

JJ

Let me preface this by saying that I now nothing about selling photographic art images, however, I don't see what appeal these images would have to a potential buyer. The images are fantastic, as fashion or editorial work, but IMHO, not so much as saleable art.

Produce the same images with some well known celebrities, actors, models, etc etc, and then it might be a different story.

Great work.

JJ

I've replaced a shutter in a 20D. AUD350.

I think the life is about 50000, not much really for any pro.

JJ

In this subjective world of photography, Derek is wrong! I've several 'L' lenses which pale in comparison to a R 50 'cron. I also have a Canon NON L lenses which is alsmost as sharp, namely the 100/2.8 USM Macro. Focusing accuracy is an issue with some Canon bodies so maybe this was the problem Derek encountered, I don't know. I can't use any R lens on a 20D an accurately focus it. On the other hand, the focusing accuracy of the 1dsMk2 is excellent so you can really get the best from any lens. The R 50 'cron is extremely sharp, and cheap. Buy one now, you won't regret it (unless you need auto focus and auto everything).

JJ

A few days ago I was burgled. Miraculously the thieves where caught and the

stolen goods retrieved. What?s the chance of that happening again?

My question is this. How do you protect your equipment? My intention is to buy

a safe which will fit at least 2 or 3 camera bags, as they are, so that I can

carry them from my car straight to the safe. I feel that this is the only way

that I can reliably use a safe. I can't see myself using a small safe where I

need to remove camera components from a camera bag so that the components fit

in a safe. That would just not work.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

Regards

JJ

Like everyone else, I was probably too impatient and clicked on the text, not sure it has anything to do with the slide show starting or not. Personally I would rather be allowed to choose what I see, rather than forced to sit there and see 3 pictures in a row that don't interest me.

JJ

I think the main or home page has too much information on it, it's too much too soon. I also think that you should be able to click on the images on the main page as well as the text descriptions to get to each gallery.

JJ

James

Does the gallery come up even if you don't click on the text? Site looks great but I would have allowed the user to navigate their way through images rather than force them through in a specific order.

JJ

I was scared to open this post only to find that you were naked with your Summilux...

JJ

See a local accountant who knows the relevant tax laws. Also make sure that you don't sell any images without the relevant releases. Not sure where you are selling them or if releases are even required but you should make sure that you are not in breach in any way.

It's much harder to put out fires then to prevent them.

JJ

Not sure how similar the 30 and 20D are but I am unable to accurately focus any of my Leica lenses on the 20D that I have. I need to use them on my 1dsmk2 where the focusing is accurate. Yes, there can be advantages but Canon also makes some extremely good lenses so some times it makes no sense to use the leica equivalent.

I regularly use an R80/1.4 on my 1dsmk2 whith excellent results. On the other hand if I owned a EF85/1.2 then I don't think I'd ever use the Leica lens.

As some one suggested, go to the alternative forum on fred miranda where you will find a massive amount of info on the subject.

JJ

Kelly Flanigan , sep 19, 2006; 08:54 a.m.

This thread reads abit like its all about protecting the photographer.

Well, yes, it's a photography, not models, forum. The OP is a photographer, not a model, although his intent is to protect both.

JJ

Do not use any number of ND filters, that's dangerous. There are special filters which you can purchase from astronomical suppliers which are designed specifically for this. They are a metallic film of some kind, you can't even see through them. They are the only safe way to look into direct sun.

JJ

Definitely post and then call and speak to each and every person on a regular (every few months) basis.

Emails which are not solicited by your potential clients are SPAM and often ignored, unless you follow up with a phone call.

Most of the people I work with are only contactable via email or phone in that I can not visit or meet them because we are oftem 1000's of miles away so I have to use email. It works, but only because I follow up with a telephone conversation. Over time they get to know and trust you. That's when you get work. Be patient, it takes time to build relationships.

JJ

Does your post office or stationary supplier sell 'tubes' for posting such things? If so it may be the best option.

My brother in law is a screen printer. I've had him cut some heavy card stock in a couple of size's, depending on what I'm sending. Maybe you can approach a local screen printer, tell them what you are after. They can easily source whatever weight of stock you want and cut it up to size. They might even have off cuts that you can buy cheap. It will cost you, but it may still work out cheap per card.

JJ

Borek

"It's fairly unlikely that you yourself would put them on your sensor. I would certainly blame Canon."

I disagree, I've done it myself. Too much talking whilst cleaning a senser and there you go, spittle on the sensor. I don't speak whilst I'm blowing the dust of my sensor these days.

JJ

Stuart,

Yeah, it sure has, but you would be hard pressed to make a large print wide open. Wide open shots do look amazing at 8x10, or so.

This lens is very similar to the R 80/1.4 in that both have very smooth bokeh yet are exceedingly sharp when stopped down. Both are already excellent from f2.0, but marginal below that. The tonal gradation from either lens is better than that from any Canon or Nikon lens I've ever used. I shoot cars so smooth tonal gradation and sharpness are important to me and these lenses seem to deliver the goods better than any others I've used.

Although I've never used the Canon 35/1.4 there seem to be nothing but glowing reviews about it. I wouldn't be surprised if it was sharper than the Leica wide open. If anything I would be surprised if it wasn't! Based on my previous experience with both brands of glass I would suggest that the Canon might not offer the same stopped down sharpness and smooth tonal gradation. Happy to be proven wrong by anyone who has both bits of glass.

JJ

It's pretty soft wide open, except in the very centre. I don't use it wide open at all. It has great resolution when stopped down. Very nice lens, but not well suited to wide open use.

JJ

I find the same thing with a 20D and 1dsmk2 when using studio strobes. It pays to do a quick test and find the shutter speed where illumination is completely even. 1/125 to 180 is usually fine, but always check.

JJ

I have a faulty Canon 70-200/2.8 IS zoom. When it came back from a service the vignetting was much worse than it was prior to the service (it went in for focus/sharpness issues, not vignetting)! My point is that I like it that way and I use it to my advantage. Vignetting isn't always a bad thing.

JJ

David

Sorry to hear they were'nt willing to compromise. I think you did the right thing.

JJ

Leica glow is really a feeling you have in your wallet.

They saw that when you loose a limb you still feel like it's there. Well, that's the feeling you get in your wallet, surely that much money must still be there, surely you couldn't have paid that much money...

JJ

It's not a case of 'screwing other photographers in the area', to use your words, to shoot at such a low rate you would be screwing yourself. Even if you do get more work, which is only wishfull thinking on your part, what's the point if you are only being paid 2/3rds for the same job.

Sometimes photogs do supply too much, and maybe doing a smaller cheaper job is more appropriate. Why would you consider doing the same job for only 2/3rds of the price? Why don't you supply 2/3rds of the quantity/quality, that is, if you previously spent 6 hours on a job then only spend 4 hours on the same job.

All I can suggest is that you talk to the editor and try to get back your previous rate, which I assume you were happy with. If not then make it clear that you will spend much less time on each job.

If you do continue to work at a lower price then you are effectively screwing everyone in that field.

My 2 cents.

JJ

PS, All I do is work for magazines.

Kimberly

Thanks for posting how things panned out. I have had similar experiences where rather stern agreements have been thrust under my nose. The last one took about a month to renegotiate but everyone was happy in the end.

As others have already stated, and you have shown, don't just agree to this kind of stuff just to get the job, negotiate.

JJ

Maybe it was a marketing thing, who knows.

I believe the earlier bodies R4/RE/R5-7 were 'based' on a minolta body, not sure how much or little similarity there was with the original minolta body though. The R8/9 is a new Leica design.

JJ