vinhn

Is there a manual flash setting on the 5D?

I wrote a long response that disappeared but mainly the point was that my flash exposure went all over the place depending on the focal length, using an offshoe cable, and whether there was adi or no adi. It has gotten somewhat predictable so that I can adjust my exposure settings depending on the situation but sometimes I forget.

 

I didn't want to get it recalibrated because I was wary of not having the flash or camera for an indeterminate amount of time. I also use the flash with my film maxxums so I didn't know if recalibrating it would screw things up for them.

What about the white balance? Maybe it's set on incandescent accidentally?

Well, before I had a D Lens, I set the camera specifically to TTL and didn't really have any exposure problems. Since I have a D lens now, I switched it to ADI. I didn't realise there was a downshift to regular ttl just by using an offshoe setup.

Anybody using the 7D with a flash with an offshoe cable and bracket?

It seems like I'm more prone to get flash overexposure in the vertical

format. I suspect it's the ADI metering (28-75 f/2.8D) since I never

had this problem before using an non-D lens (50mm f/1.4) with regular

ttl metering.

 

Also, continuous shutter mode doesn't work well with the flash. I get

flash overexposure there on all the shots. It's like the camera is

sensitive to previous (or latter?) burst of flashes.

 

Does keeping the anti-shake on for flash photography factor into this?

I mean I am sure. I just can't confirm it right now.

I'm not sure Bill since i don't have my camera with me, but I'm certain my 7D goes up to 1600 with 3200 having to be unlocked from the custom menu.

What bracket have people successfully used with just a regular maxxum 7 and vertical grip?

Damn it, I've been using a stroboframe press t flash bracket with my

7D. I just got the vertical grip through the mail and now I found out

that the bottom of the bracket blocks my finger from the vertical

shutter!

 

Which bracket would get me to avoid this?

Copy and paste job:<blockquote>This is an update to the Maxxum 7D firmware. This firmware is for use only with the Maxxum 7D and cannot be used with other products. The update does not work correctly if it is installed in other products. *Corrected problem details: 1. Added the remote storage function which can be used in combination with the DiMAGE Transfer software. 2. Speeded up its access to a memory card. This improvement shortens the writing speed to the memory card and USB data transfer speed. *Effect varies depending on the memory card. 3. Added enlarged display function in both the histogram display and the index display in playback mode. 4. Added luminance limit display function in the histogram display in instant playback. 5. Modified the "No memory card" warning indication. 6. Modified the following problems: - External flash fires with its full power in rare cases. - Camera freezes after self-timer recording in rare cases.</blockquote>

 

I've had trouble with 6 (full blast flash) showing up in 1 out of 20 shots. Haven't really shot fast enough to notice the CF transfer bottleneck.

Check the konicaminolta.com site to download:

 

<blockquote>This is an update to the Maxxum 7D firmware. This firmware is for use only with the Maxxum 7D and cannot be used with other products. The update does not work correctly if it is installed in other products. *Corrected problem details: 1. Added the remote storage function which can be used in combination with the DiMAGE Transfer software. 2. Speeded up its access to a memory card. This improvement shortens the writing speed to the memory card and USB data transfer speed. *Effect varies depending on the memory card. 3. Added enlarged display function in both the histogram display and the index display in playback mode. 4. Added luminance limit display function in the histogram display in instant playback. 5. Modified the "No memory card" warning indication. 6. Modified the following problems: - External flash fires with its full power in rare cases. - Camera freezes after self-timer recording in rare cases.</blockquote>

 

I've had trouble with 6 (full blast flash) showing up in 1 out of 20 shots. Haven't really shot fast enough to notice the CF transfer bottleneck.

Aren't the number of blades different between the old and restyled f/1.4? Doesn't that make a difference in the pics?

Did a little research and looks like they extended to deadline out to Feb 28. I bought mine through amazon. I wonder how the check will work there.

Wait, I thought the rebate and warranty offer expired Dec 31, 2004?

The +.3 compensation is with the Pre-TTL setting. I'm noticing the likelihood of underexposure increases with distance and angle of the subject so I'm not sure if it's an ISO issue or as the last poster mentioned the way the flash is oriented.

 

Maybe the same thing happened with my film maxxum but I never noticed because of film's exposure latitude.

Well I got my 7D in today. I'm pretty happy with it. The 400 ISO seems

to have low noise so I put my ISO on Auto (100-400) for now. However,

the criticism about underexposed flash pictures was correct. I'm using

a 3600HS and a 50mm f/1.4 non D lens. I've been tinkering with the

flash exposure compensation and I guess +.3 is about right. Do you

think it's a D lens issue because I'm planning to get the 28-75

f/2.8(D) lens.

I decided what the hell and placed my order a couple of days ago on amazon. I'll try to match it with the 28-75 minolta lens later with the help of a 150 dollar certificate received from purchasing the camera. I'm eagerly tracking the package through UPS.

 

I wonder if there are any other reports of CF options besides sansdisk and lexar.

I decided to just get a DSLR: A Minolta 7D. I'll recoup the cost one of these years.

I averaged about 3 rolls for every 2 hours so we're talking fast shooting. Thirty rolls total. 25 rolls of nph. 5 rolls of Kodak 400uc. I changed each in a very dark room and at no times I ever went outdoors with the film exposed. I used two different cameras too.

 

One roll that was processed in vegas was severely damaged and I think it was the lab. There looked to be imprints of the edges of another strand on the negatives like as if they placed one on top of the other before they were dry.

 

As for the washed out last frames of a couple of rolls of NPH, I think it had to do with improper refrigeration because that was the only thing I did different from the other rolls was to refrigerate them.

 

I've tried walking through the metal detectors with just one canister of film and not other metal and it set it off a year ago. The TSA then was nice enough to handcheck that one roll that I dug out of my pocket.

 

I still think the guy that refused the handcheck was an asshole. Even another TSA guy that was near him nagged him about it ("Remember what they said in class").

Hmmmnn... three of my rolls have that very grainy look near the end of them (one roll had that problem throughout the roll) except it's not a band. I'm not sure if it's fog. The colours were very washed out and very grainy so I applied some heavy digital roc and gem to try to recover. I just figured it was bad processing or bad film. Do you guys know what it could be?<div></div>

Different labs different cameras which confuses the hell out of me

The 1A scanned under negative settings<div></div>

1A with a picture

0A which is still empty<div></div>

okay using a film scanner<div></div>