darren_cokin

This post is long overdue. I typed up notes after I completed the project 6

months ago, but never got around to taking the pictures. Just this week I

bought a 2nd speedlight and some umbrellas, so I decided to make it a lesson in

product photography. (Look ma, no shadows!)<br><br>

This is a follow up to an old thread I started when I was first researching this

project: <br>

<a

href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00DvVD">http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00DvVD</a><br><br>

If you don't know what a Lens Scope Converter is, and why it's useful, read

this: <br>

<a

href="http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/lsc.htm">http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/lsc.htm

</a><br><br>

(Surprisingly, my initial post is now google ranked above that. The Ken

Rockwell's article used to be #1.) <br><br>

Nikon's version is no longer made, and I became very frustrated trying to buy

one last year. Ebay prices went up to $500. I just checked the site now, and

see that one lucky buyer did get one for $86 two weeks ago, but several others

sold for over $300. That's too much. <br><br>

The one I built cost me about $35, and is actually better than Nikon's original,

because it supports G lenses that don't have an aperture ring. (Though it would

probably be easy to modify Nikon's version for G's... keep reading.) <br><br>

Here's what mine looks like:<div></div>

Follow up:<br>

The SB-800's battery compartment has dividers in between each AA slot, so the CR-V3's won't fit. I returned them without doing my "science experiment".<br>:-(<br><br>

Still no joy finding an appropriate 5 cell AA charger...<br><br>

Darren

Thanks everyone for the comments.<br><br>

I placed the order for the flash from B&H last night, should have it later this week. I didn't order any batteries from them though, because I thought I'd see what was available locally. Went to my local electronics superstore earlier today (Fry's), and spent a long time staring at their wall of NiMH batteries and chargers. There were over 20 chargers to choose from, but I quickly became frustrated. I thought I picked out a perfect compact 8 cell charger, but eventually saw in the fine print that it could only charge 2, 4, 6 or 8 cells at a time. So, I would be sh@t-out-of-luck trying to charge 5 from the SB-800. Even some that did have individual status lights for each cell couldn't charge odd numbers of them. Some packages didn't say either way, but if it had only one light, I assumed it was all or nothing. The only small one that could do odd numbers was an "8 minute charger", which sounds suspicious. (That's too fast to be good for the batteries.) The only acceptable options were big expensive units, that I didn't want to have to pack in my suitcase when I travel. I would have just turned away and started looking online again, but then I noticed they had rechargeable Li-ion CR-V3's, similar to the Delkin's I had seen online, but much cheaper. Just $20 each for a battery and charger. Brand name is UltraLast. The chargers are nice and small. So I bought 2 of them. They said if I slice open the blister packs carefully, I can return them. So, when I get the flash in a few days, I'll do some testing, and see if the refresh rate is acceptable, and re-evaluate my options then. I'll report my findings here.<br><br>

Honestly, I really don't believe the numbers that Shun pasted above from the manual. For each type of battery, the refresh time went down when a 5th one was added, but not for Lithium. That doesn't jibe. According to the packages I was reading at the store, all the rechargeable AA NiMH's are actually rated for 1.2 volts, less than the usual 1.5 for AA. So, 5 of them will be only 6 volts. The rechargeable Li-ion CR-V3's are rated at 3.15-3.25V, so only 2 of them will give a stronger voltage than the NiMH's. I know voltage isn't the only factor, but I can't believe the times stated in that table. I have to see for myself. And since this was a cheap, convenient option, that I can return, I thought I'd give it a shot...<br><br><br>

Vivek asks (I'm not sure why here):<br>

<i>Darren, what do you do at NASA?</i><br><br>

Not much any more, sorry to say. A few odd jobs here and there, when something comes up that's related to one of my prior assignments (<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STS-93">space shuttle payload integration</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBSS">Orbiter Boom Sensor System</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/X-37">X-37</a>). Just today a manager approved 2 hours of funding so I could answer a question for someone in Houston. That took 12 minutes though. Most of the NASA funding for the California branch has dried up. They're keeping us busy on other projects. For the last few months I've been working on a structural enhancement for the 777 airliner. Hopefully when NASA picks a vendor for the new <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crew_Exploration_Vehicle">'back-to-the-moon'</a> program I'll have more interesting work to do again. But they keep delaying the selection. Not until January now I here...<br><br>

Darren

I was shopping at Fry's this evening, my local electronics superstore, and was

surprised to find a pair of rechargeable lithium CR123A batteries with a dual

charger for only $25. Are you still using disposable batteries at up to $16 a

pair?<br><br>

When rechargeable CR123A's first became available from Delkin last year, I

bought a two pack for over $30 I think, and that only came with a single battery

charger. (So I had to buy two, which was expensive, and a clutter.)<br><br>

Fry's internet arm is called Outpost.com, which doesn't get listed very high up

in the usual search engines it seems. They are a reputable firm though.<br><br>

Ultralast 3.0V CR-123 Rechargeable Photo Batteries with AC Charger:<br>

<a

href="http://outpost.com/product/4426066">http://outpost.com/product/4426066</a><br><br>

Additional batteries are $10:<br>

<a

href="http://outpost.com/product/4426076">http://outpost.com/product/4426076</a><br><br>

I've been really happy with my rechargeables. I haven't noticed any difference

in refresh rate or endurance compared with the disposables. I can't say how

this brand compares with the Delkin's, but at that price, it's worth a shot. If

you try them, report back your results. (I was tempted to get this just for the

dual-charger.)<br><br>

Darren

<i>> Also you will only get full power from the SB-50DX in slave mode</i><br><br>

Is that necessarily true? After reading the SB-50DX�s manual, I thought if would shut down when it�s master does? (under certain circumstances)<br><br>

To trigger it remotely, I know you must disable the pre-flashes. With my D100, the only way to do that with the pop-up flash is to lock it on full power. Thus, with this arrangement, yes, the slave SB-50DX would always be at full power. But, if you had a film camera, it wouldn�t be.<br><br>

I just placed an order for a SB-800, and should have it in a few days. I still need to study the manual, to figure out my best options, but I know it has several modes that disable the pre-flash, and still allow you to adjust the power output.<br><br>

So, if I connected the SB-800 to the camera with an SC-28 cord, and had it in a manual mode, firing at low power, the SB-50DX would be triggered at low power as well, yes?<br><br>

Or not?<br><br>

If not, I guess I would gain nothing by using the SB-800 as master by connecting it to the D100 with a cord. The only reason to do that I figured, would be to sync the SB-50DX�s power to the SB-800�s. Because without the cord, and using the pop-up flash as master, I could still dial down the SB-800 slave to any power I choose.<br><br>

I think I�ll be using the SB-800 as a main light, and either a reflector or the SB-50DX as a fill light. When the SB-50DX isn�t used for fill, it would be for hair, or for the background.<br><br>

I�ve got a bit of experimenting to do I guess...<br><br>

Darren

I also have an old D100, and the hot pixels are getting worse. Not usually visible, but they are on long exposures, or when I raise the ISO. I've started to use dark frame subtraction more often, and it's been working really well for me.

It's pretty simple actually. Every now and then, put on the lens cap, and take a picture. Ideally, your dark frame should be taken with the same ISO and shutter speed as the picture(s) you want to fix, with the camera at the same temperature. So, while you don't need to quite take one after every shot, you shouldn't wait until the next day. Take one after you change ISO settings, start using a different shutter speed, move to a different environment, etc. On July 4th, after the fireworks show was over, I took dark frames at 1 second, 2 seconds, 5 seconds, 10 seconds, etc, so I'd have one to match most of my shots.

Later, in Photoshop, paste the dark frame over your picture, and change the blending mode to "Difference". Viola! Your hot pixels will mostly vanish.

Darren

I will be buying this flash soon, and am thinking about how best to power it. I

don't wish to ever use an external pack, or disposable batteries.<br><br>

Still no rechargeable lithium AA's on the market anywhere that I could find.

For AA, you have to settle for NiMH it seems. <br><br>

But, you ought to be able to stick a pair of CR-V3's in there, instead of 4

AA's, right? <br><br>

Anyone tried using <a

href="http://www.thomas-distributing.com/delkin-rcr-v3.htm">these rechargeables

from Delkin?</a><br>

Two chargers and 4 batteries (charge one set while using the other) would be

around $100. <br><br>

Seems like a good option. I've been very happy with their rechargeable CR123's

in my SB-50DX. <br><br>

But I wonder... Would you get faster recycles and/or more flashes using 5 AA

NiMH's? (using the clip on pack for a 5th cell that comes with the flash) <br><br>

What's the bigger advantage, adding a 5th cell, or switching to Lithium? The

lithium option would sure be lighter and more compact. (The cells themselves

are lighter, and I'd have fewer of them.) <br><br>

Anyway, I can't find a 5 or 10 cell AA NiMH charger. Only 4 or 8 cells.

Grrr.... <br><br>

Darren<br><br>

PS. In my google searching, I found something neat. I've got no intention of

going "off grid" any time soon, but it's cool to know the options have improved

recently. Solar chargers up to 20 watts that are <a

href="http://store.sundancesolar.com/pofosobach.html">foldable</a>, <a

href="http://store.sundancesolar.com/porosepoposo.html">rollable</a>

, and even <a href="http://store.sundancesolar.com/sobachforni.html">customized

for Nikon</a>'s lithium's!

Eventually, I named him Meows At Ceiling, or 'Mac' for short.<br><br>

(sorry for the double post)<div></div>

<i>Download the SB-800 Manual (.PDF) from Nikon's European site...</i><br><br>

Thanks for the tip. It's on the USA site too. Lot to it; I'm going to have to study up. <br><br>

It just occurred to me that my local camera shop has a huge rental department, and since at this point I only have a 1 day need, that may make more sense than trying to buy a bunch of equipment that won't get used often. <br><br>

Their rental catalog is so huge though, and I'm such a novice, what to get is a bit bewildering. I could rent a pair of SB-800's, or strobes by a wide variety of 3rd parties. They probably have someone there that can help me. But if anyone cares to make some suggestions that would be ideal for a novice using a D100, the catalog is here:<br>

<a href="http://www.samys.com/rental05/">http://www.samys.com/rental05/</a><br><br>

Darren

<i>"But, I was hoping I could at least get DTTL to work..." - NO again. The newer cameras do not have D-TTL at all.</i><br><br>

Okay, a few people seem confused, so let me restate my situation:<br><br>

I currently use a D100, which supports DTTL flash, and which I am not considering upgrading at this time. I also use a SB-50DX flash, which supports DTTL. I wish to add a SB-800 to the mix, and am unsure if I can use both flashes at the same time, with one or the other connected to the camera with a sync cord as master, and the other as a wireless slave, and still use DTTL mode.<br><br>

Will that work?<br><br>

Darren

Vivek - I like it! (I never did figure out that 'curves' dialog myself.)

So, the 511 pixel limit on inline posts is only for the width? I guess so...

Darren

<i>not in iTTL mode, since SB-50DX does not have it.</i><br><br>

Of course. My camera, a D100, doesn't have iTTL either. But, I was hoping I could at least get DTTL to work...<br><br>

<i>Look for a flash umbrella...</I><br><br>

I had been thinking along those lines, but am kind of nervous after the warnings that were posted here just yesterday about not using them outside, because they can catch the wind. Can you get similar results with one of those collapsable softboxes, or is an umbrella really the best way to go?<br><br>

Thanks.<br><br>

Darren

Before I get to my queries, a bit of background...

I am an amateur photographer, not a professional. But I don't want anyone to

notice that when they see my photographs! I'm always trying to improve my

technique, and take better pictures with the tools I have available.

I haven't really focused my attention on any specific type of photography. I've

done landscape work, panoramas, candid / street photography, nature photography,

macroscopic bug photography, Hockney-esque collages, "art" photographs of

beautiful women, etc.

When I first acquired my D100 three years ago, I was happy with the pop-up

flash. But when the shadow from the front of my wide angle lens began to bother

me, I bought a SB-50DX. (Great little flash. Recycles fast with those lithium

batteries.) When friends started to ask me to shoot their weddings, I got a

camera flip bracket and extension cord for it. But when friends started asking

for headshots... (I live near Hollywood, what can I say.) ... I noticed I had

a problem.

I would encourage my friends to hire a pro, who takes headshots all day, and has

studio lights all set up. But if they wanted something in a jiffy, or didn't

want to spend any money, I would offer to help them out and do the best I could.

But even with the cord to put the flash off to the side, I really felt with

just one flash I wasn't doing as good a job as I should.

Flash forward to this weekend... My neighbor throws a hot-tub party, and there

are lots of scantily clad women about. There's one girl wearing black knee high

boots with her bikini that I found so striking, I snapped a picture from behind.

When she turned around and saw me, she struck a pose. I kept snapping, and she

kept posing... Having fun, I took nearly a hundred pictures of her. She loves

them, I think they're amateurish. (I was drunk, using the 18-200 zoom, and with

camera mounted flash.) But, she has agreed to let me shoot her again, in a more

exotic location, and sans the bikini...

Next time I'll be careful with my technique. I won't be drunk, or using a

crappy zoom. (I've got 20, 30, and 50mm primes.) I'll put the flash off

camera. But... for really good results, I think I'll need to add light from

more than just one angle...

It occurs to me that when I upgrade my camera (whether it be to a D200, D-300,

or whatever), my non-iTTL SB-50DX will no longer be supported. So... if I'm

going to need a new flash anyway, might as well get it now....

But, how well will the SB-800 work with the SB-50DX? The SB-50DX does have a

wireless slave feature, but I believe it will only fire at full power in that

mode. If I use it as the master, it will fire a pre-flash before the main

exposure. That can be disabled, but again, it would be locked at full power. I

suppose I could work around that, but it wouldn't be ideal, to say the least.

Is the SB-800 smart enough to ignore the pre-flash when used as a slave? I

really don't want to buy TWO SB-800's at this point, so I'm hoping there is a

way to make this work with my old flash... Anyone have any advice on how to set

that up?

What else should I get? I'd like a big diffuser or reflector, but I want

something very portable. (Portability is even more of a concern than cost.)

Any suggestions? I've got the Sto-Fen diffuser for my SB-50DX already, and

don't notice much difference with it, as the light is still coming from a fairly

small source.

Thanks for any advice!

Darren

Now, this second one, I thought was just a throwaway shot... The only reason I spent 5 minutes with it in photoshop was to email to a friend who seemed to really like the satanic aspect of the first one. <br><br>

I've been really surprised that it's gotten such a strong reaction from the couple people I've shown this to. What do you all think? For my next public exhibition, would you hang this one next to the first and call it a series, or let the first stand on it's own? <br><br>

The same sepia conversion was used, but I added about 80% of the color back to the devil himself. (Partially desaturating images is a ploy I may be overusing as of late...) <br><br>

This is from a piece called <i>Saint Michael Casting Satan into Hell</i>, done in the early 1700's by Domenico Antonio Vaccaro. Shot through glass display case. <br><br>

Thanks for any feedback. <br><br>

Darren<br><br>

PS. Hail Satan.<div></div>

The other week me and a friend took an excursion to the Los Angeles County

Museum of Art (LACMA), ostensibly to see the David Hockney exhibit (his

photography has been a huge influence on me, much more so than his painting,

which was the focus of the current exhibition). We also took some time to

explore the permanent collection, which is where I took the two photos linked

below.<br><br>

The first of these is just about my favorite shot I've taken this year. No

flash allowed in the museum, so I was using my Sigma 30mm f1.4, and taking

advantage of the ability of my Slik Mini Pro III tabletop tripod to double as a

chest pod, to help steady my hand. A fair percentage of my shots weren't

critically sharp (due to either focus errors or movement), but enough were that

I went home happy. <br><br>

Especially happy with this first one, which shows a portion of <i>Satan</i>, a

bronze sculpture cast by Frenchman Jean-Jacques Feuchere in 1836. (The

out-of-focus areas fore and aft are his wings.) <br><br>

The sepia conversion was done with the Gorman/Holbert technique, described here:<br>

<a

href="http://www.gormanphotography.com/bw_conversion.pdf">http://www.gormanphotography.com/bw_conversion.pdf</a><br><br>

Big thanks to whoever first posted that link on this forum a couple weeks ago!<div></div>

There isn't a forum rule about only Arnab being allowed to start these threads,

is there?

This guy flew into my apartment the other day, and sat on my keyboard long

enough for me to set up a tripod and macro rail... D100, 50mm f1.8, kenko

extension tubes, SB-50DX.<div></div>

Shun wrote:<br>

<i>I hope your aperture-coupling lever is not bent.</i><br><br>

I was thinking the same thing.<br><br>

<i>We had that discussion about 2 months ago but I cannot find that thread at the moment.</i><br><br>

I bet you mean this one:<br>

<a href=http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00H29x>http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00H29x</a><br><br>

I haven't had any further problems with my camera, I think bending it back roughly as I did was a perfectly adequate repair.<br><br>

Good luck David.<br><br>

Darren

I've used neither of these models, but I seem to remember from the specs that the D70's have a higher hi-speed-flash-sync than any other model, D200 included.

That would be advantageous for taking portraits outdoors in sunlight, commonly done at weddings. In that situation, you'd want to use a flash to fill in the shadows. With the D70's higher sync speed, you could use a wider aperture, throwing the background further out of focus, isolating your subject more, potentially giving you a more pleasing looking portrait.

Might not be enough to negate all of the D200's other advantages, but it is one thing the D70's always had going for it...

Darren

<i>...with the aperture ring locked, and set using the command dial, is the camera now using the precise travel of its aperture lever to determine the point at which the diaphragm stops?</i><br><br>

So it seems. That's why I'm concerned about having the lever positioned accurately. The newest generation of lenses don't even have aperture rings.<br><br>

Though I don't think I'm quite ready to invest in a D200 for myself, I tend to agree with Shun, and wouldn't bother spending much on repairing a late model camera like this. But I do hope to keep it working. Even after I've upgraded to a newer model, it would be nice to keep the old one around as a backup, or if I was shooting an event, ready with a different lens mounted.<br><br>

I guess it's okay as is. Maybe I'll fiddle with it a little more when I find a fresh body to compare it with.<br><br>

Darren