geoff_portas

<p>I have an S90 which also has the zoom preset ring around the lens, which enables you to select 28, 35, 50, 85 and 105mm equivalent settings.<br>

If you use this ring to set the zoom then switch the camera off, it will resume to that setting when you turn on again.<br>

I find this a very useful feature and I usually use this ring for selecting zoom rather than the zoom lever on top.</p>

<p>If you have the software that came with the camera originally, you will have Canon's DPP. This will allow you to process the RAW files and save in jpg or TIFF format, which you will be able to open in PSE 4.<br>

The DNG route will also work, but your images will not be corrected for lens distortion.</p>

<p>Yes, update ACR to version 6.6.(available on the Adobe web site Downloads page) and you will be able to open your G12 raw files.</p>

<p>Applying overall sharpening always seems to exaggerate grain.<br>

I'm not familiar with the Epson scanner so I don't know if sharpening is applied at the scanning stage. If so maybe it can be reduced or turned off.<br>

I got better results by applying sharpening in Photoshop, but only to those areas that needed it.</p>

<p>Put the two images on separate layers and use the Screen blend mode.</p>

 

<p>1052 x 768 is a very unusual resolution.<br>

Are you sure it's not 1024 x 768? That's the standard XGA resolution which is quite commonly used for projectors</p>

<p>Are you using the Select tool or the Crop tool?<br>

If you are using the Select tool make sure the Feathering option is set to zero.<br>

Try using the Crop tool instead and see if you still get the same problem.</p>

<p>I will be amazed if there is a camera that lets you turn off the LCD and doesn't have any other viewfinder. How would you know what you you are taking?<br>

Guess I guess!</p>

<p>Try working in 16 bit mode if you can, it gives much finer steps and usually avoids such problems.</p>

<p>I use DNG because it allows me to use RAW files from newer cameras in my older version of Photoshop (CS2) which otherwise doesn't support them.<br>

I also like the freedom from "sidecar" files.</p>

<p>Perhaps you've set your camera to shoot RAW whereas before it was set to jpeg only?<br>

Or perhaps you're using a higher resolution than you did before?<br>

These setting will affect the file size and hence number of pictures that can be stored.</p>

<p>My Panasonic G1 shows the histogram in the viewfinder, so presumably the G2 does as well.</p>

<p>....and are you sure your subject didn't move?</p>

<p>Copy the equivalent finger plus some more on the other hand and paste onto a new layer. Flip it horizontally and then adjust as necessary. Apply a layer mask and with a soft edged brush and rubber adjust the mask so you can't see the join.</p><div></div>

<p>Plenty of scope for confusion here!<br>

A7 is a European paper size of 105mm x 74mm (approx 4.1in x 2.9in)<br>

It is also a North American ENVELOPE size 7.25in x 5.25in.<br>

As Frank says make sure that whatever you select matches your actual paper size.</p>

<p>I don't know what's going on here either.<br /> At f/16 it is possible that dust on/in the lens or filter(?) would show up. However presumably the lens would be wide open when viewing through the viewfinder.<br /> If the result is the same with a different lens it must be that there is dust on both the sensor and the focussing screen in very similar positions. A remarkable coincidence indeed.</p>

<p>According to its specification on dpreview it is described as "weatherproof", which is not waterproof.</p>

<p>17 x 25 what? Inches or centimetres?</p>

<p>Just put them on a light box and copy them with a digital camera</p>

<p>Assuming you are talking about Photoshop 6 and not Photoshop Elements 6, you need to use the Channel Mixer to accentuate the red channel and reduce the green and blue channels.<br>

I don't know whether Elements 6 has a channel mixer facility.</p>

<p>Have you considered a G1 instead?<br>

By the time you've added a viewfinder to the GF1 it's no smaller than the G1, and the EVF on the G1 is very good. And it's quite a bit cheaper too, even before adding on the cost of the external viewfinder.<br>

(I find the articulated lcd very useful as well)</p>

<p>A projector based on a DLP chip will give you the deepest blacks.<br>

Make sure it has an sRGB display mode (many don't have one)</p>

<p>What Frans said, like this.</p><div></div>

<p>Akira said "Someone make cheapo remote release for my Panasonic G1, please!"<br>

They do. Go to Ebay and search for "remote shutter G1" and you'll find several.<br>

I bought one for £7 and it works just fine!</p>

<p>The Curve shape. You can play around with this to get the effect you want.</p><div></div>