michael_flaherty

Take a hard look at the Olympus C5050 or C5060. The C5050 has the faster lens and will be a bit less expensive, albeit only a 3X zoom versus the 4X zoom of the C5060. I own 7 digital cameras, including the C5050, and believe this model to be an outstanding value for the money. Of course, nothing beats my Canon 1D - but that's in a whole different league and is clearly not "pocketable."

While the 10D is a fine camera in its price range, it's literally a "toy" when compared to either 1D or 1Ds (absolutely no disrespect intended). I believe the 1Ds is overkill for most work and falls short for anything involving fast action, with only 3 fps available. But the 1D is perfect for events, weddings, and almost anything else you throw at it. I wouldn't trade my 1D for the world, including a 1Ds. My backup is an older D30 that continues to provide me with great images, every bit as good as the day I bought it. Many of the animal shots in my little photo gallery ( http://www.imageevent.com/mflaherty/mikesgallery ) wouldn't be there without the 1D's 8 fps speed.

I'd recommend any of the following: SimpleTech, Viking, Lexar, Sandisk, and Kingston. I've got several of each brand in sizes from 128MB to 1GB and use them in all my digital cameras (7 of them, including the Olympus C5050 Zoom). I've yet to have a single error on any card. I suggest looking at online shops like Newegg.com for deals on these cards. And I recommend 512MB for the C5050 Zoom and that you shoot exclusively RAW and convert the images in Photoshop CS's RAW converter. Enjoy!

I think you'll do better with the Olympus C5050 Zoom, or the Olympus C5060 Zoom. These cameras are superior, in terms of their feature sets and lenses, to the Canon G5.

I use RAW on my C5050 Zoom. In fact, you can change white balance before processing these RAW images, a feat you can't do with JPG's. Also, you can alter the exposure significantly more (both ways) with RAW's than JPG's without impacting overall image quality. Clearly, RAW processing gives the photographer more options after the shot is taken than with JPG's.

 

I shoot RAW on all my digital cameras, including Canon's 1D and D30. Only way to go, IMHO. And I use Adobe's RAW converter in Photoshop CS to to the conversions.

I know it handles RAW files from my C-5050, and I suspect they're virtually identical to those from the C-5060.

My correction above is the result of yours truly failing to read the previous poster's message carefully enough. In fact, this person was NOT referring to the 420EX flash, but a less expensive EX flash that does not swivel nor communicate with the 550EX as a slave, precisely as he stated. I stand corrected and sincerely apologize for this blunder.

"However, it will not swivel or serve as a slave (in the future, if you'll want to use wireless E-TTL). 550EX is the best but rather expensive. Do take note that all third party flash units will emit AF assist only to the central AF point."

 

I own a 420EX and a couple of 550EX's and I can tell you that the 420EX DOES swivel and DOES serve as a slave to either the 550EX or STE2 unit. Those are facts you can take to the bank.

"That is a questionable definition of professional"

 

THAT'S not intended to be a definition of professional - it's simply a statement of fact and no more or less. Where's your head?????

No confusion here. I know the difference.

As mentioned several times above, the 420EX will work perfectly on your D30, with focus assist capabilities. The 550EX is a much better flash but is, in fact, relatively expensive. Another good one for your D30 is the Metz 54MZ3, which is more expensive than the 550EX, but has some additional features such as its "Auto Thyristor" mode that is independent of ETTL. Sunpak model 444D is a great flash for the D30, too, and has an optional foot with focus assist capabilities. Only problem with ETTL on the D30 (I own one and a 1D, too) is that FEL is an absolute must if you want reliable and consistent results - and FELing each shot is a genuine pain, IMHO. And, for the record, I don't think the D30 and the Digital Rebel are in the same league. I much prefer the D30. Now, the 10D is another story and is, in fact, a better camera than the D30, IMHO. The Digital Rebel, despite its 6MP CMOS sensor, has a severely limited feature set (intentionally crippled in software by Canon) that I would not want to live with, personally. Heck; the darned thing doesn't even have flash exposure compensation options! Opinions may vary, but that's mine. Good luck in your quest for a replacement flash unit.

"Someone who knows how to make good photographs can do it with a $15 Holga... or no camera at all."

 

...True enough, but they could do it better and easier if they had quality equipment and knew how to use it...That's why the Pros have professional equipment. Most of them (at least those worth their salt) posess the ability to shoot with modest equipment - but why should they waste their time when they can do it faster and more reliably with professional level equipment.

While I totally agree with the 'intent' of your statement, I don't necessarily buy it 'hook, line, and sinker.' True enough that quality equipment does not make a quality photographer; nor does it necessarily result in quality images. There is no substitute for a good eye and basic photographic technical skills, and a working knowledge of same. That said; quality equipment, when in the hands of somebody who knows how to extract its powers can and does result in better photography, IMHO. The images at my site were taken with any number of digital cameras; some considered consumer models. Bet you can't tell which camera took which shot. Here's the link and I welcome your comments... http://imageevent.com/mflaherty/mikesgallery

 

Take care...

Oh. Let me count the ways...For example, my Canon 1D shoots at 8 frames per second and will shoot RAW and JPG's simultaneously. It focuses about a gazillion times faster than a 300D or 10D. Has arguably better color and greater dynamic range, ability to apply custom curves in-camera, more customizable features than you can 'shake a stick at,' built like a tank, water resistant, and the list goes on and on and on...

 

I also own 6 other digital cameras, including an older Canon D30 digital slr. Clearly, the Pro models are superior instruments. That said; the 300D, 10D, D60, etc. are quite capable of producing wonderful images, when in the hands of someone who understands how to use them properly and can work within their limited feature sets. I've used a friend's D300 and 10D and, in comparison to the 1D/1Ds, they're 'toys' (no disrespect intended).

One more thing...If the Digital Rebel (I'm not sure, because I haven't checked it out) lacks a PC sync terminal, that is easily remedied by purchasing a hotshoe adapter that incorporates a PC sync terminal. They're readily available at camera stores and online places such as B&H.

I, too, own both lenses. Clearly, the 24-70 is a more versatile lens and it's on my camera most of the time.

The short answer is no. A camera, whether digital or film, is simply a camera. The shooter should understand the fundamentals of photography before expecting to get quality and consistent results. Recommendations, with the information you've provided so far, will be difficult. We need to know things like your cost limitations, the shooter's skill level, etc. before recommending further.

I'm a serious digital photographer who owns 7 digital cameras (Canon 1D, D30, Pro90IS, G1, Olympus E100RS, C5050 Zoom, and Nikon 880). In your approximate price range, I highly recommend the Olympus C5050 Zoom (there's a C5060 model out there now, too). When considering this model, I carefully studied specifications and feature sets against the Canon G3 (G5 wasn't out yet) and opted for the Olympus 5050. No regrets. It's lens is faster, takes 3 types of media (CF, SM, and MMC), uses AA batteries (cheaper and more readily available), feels better in the hand, and its menu system is more intuitive (still a learning curve involved, of course) than the Canon. Comments about excessive noise in the 5050 are, based on my experience with thousands of shots, overstated. If you buy one, plan on also getting an external flash (internal flashes on cameras suck, IMHO) of high quality. Good luck shopping!

First, your HP printer isn't what you want for high quality and long-lasting prints (HP's are great general purpose printers, however). HP is working on ink/paper formulas which produce long-lasting prints, but have a ways to go before approaching that of Epson. Canon hasn't quite gotten there either, in terms of archival print quality (but Canon's print lots faster than Epson's). I'm a photographer who uses exclusively Epson printers. My main printer is a model 2200, but I also use the 1280 and 890 models. Also, no matter the printer you choose, only use OEM papers and inks. Don't succumb to the temptation of using generic (cheaper) inks and papers. I assure you that they will not produce accurate photographic colors and the archival quality of the prints will be iffy, at best. This advice comes from one who has 'been there and done that' and determined that it just doesn't pay, unfortunately.

 

Finally, there is only one place to purchase your inks and papers. That's http://www.atlex.com . This company has demonstrated consistently low prices, reasonable shipping costs, fast delivery, and credible customer service levels to me and countless others. I've given them many thousands of dollars in orders over the past 3 years and highly recommend them.

Electronically, it'll work. But I warn you against trying it without first buying (they're quite expensive) something like a "Safe-Sync" adapter to go between your old Vivitar flash and your new Digital Rebel. Otherwise, the high voltage (some old Vivitars put out trigger voltages of over 200 volts!) may fry your camera's innards. Canon specifies a maximum flash trigger voltage of 6 volts, although I have used trigger voltages (checked with my own multi-meter) up to 12 volts without harm on my D30, G1, and Pro90IS Canon models. But those old Vivitars are famous for dangerously high trigger voltages.

I've collected several dozen CF cards of various brands (i.e., Kingston, SimpleTech, Lexar, Sandisk, Viking) over the past 4 years that range in size from 128MB to 1GB and they've been used in dozens of different card readers, cameras, computers (PC's and Mac's), PDA's, MP3 players, etc. and I've yet to have one fail on me. I'm a digital photograher and a techno-geek, so my cards get used - and used hard.

I have owned a couple of iPods. My current model is the latest 20GB version and I love it for music and for backup of key user files from my Mac or PC. But the thing sucks, in terms of performance, when rigged for downloading digital images from a card. I've read the comments from many disappointed buyers of this gizmo/attachment (made by Belkin) and believe its purchase will prove disappointing to any who succumb.

Most of my shooting is with my Canon 1D or D30, but I've got several smaller digital cameras, including the Olympus C5050 Zoom that I use when I don't want to tote around the 'big guys.' The 5050 is indeed a fine little camera. I've got both the FL-40 and the Metz 54MZ3 with the Olympus foot and, while the FL-40 is no slouch, the Metz produces better light, IMHO, and is more versatile (i.e., Auto-Thyrisor mode). While I've taken some quality shots with my little 5050, it's way too slow and lacks the versatility I need for the nature shooting that I do mostly. But I do enjoy the 5050 for family and party snapshots. Typically, I never shoot it above ISO64. My little gallery includes images taken from several digital cameras, including the 5050. The link is below...

 

http://imageevent.com/mflaherty/mikesgallery

Your question regarding 'flash exposure compensation' and not knowing how to do it leads me to believe that you have not thoroughly read your camera's manual. I can't over-emphasize the importance of reading the manual and re-reading it - and then ask questions, if you have them.

 

In response to your question...Just set FLASH EXPOSURE COMPENSATION to whatever you like (i.e., -1/3, -1.0, whatever) and only the flash output will change. That's what'll give you fill-flash to lighten or eliminate shadows while not blowing out the highlights.

If you have a Wal-Mart in your area, they'll do a great job for you with their Fuji Frontier printer (state of the art, for sure). Prices are about 1/2 of what I can print them for myself using any of my Epson printers. If you require sizes different than the standard 4X6, 5X7, 8X10 - you might have to look elsewhere because they will only print standard sizes. I use them when I have lots of prints to make and I'm in a hurry. For example, I used them recently to print 300 4X6 prints for our annual Christmas Card insert. They had 'em done in an hour and my costs were cut in half and my labor was zero. Print quality and paper used are the best in the industry. I understand most Sam's Club and Costco stores also use Fuji Frontier printers.