michael_flaherty

The Olympus RAW converter plug-in for Photoshop is so bad it's not worth using, IMHO (and significant personal experience). I recommend using Photoshop CS and its RAW converter. Now, that's a converter.

I'm guessing your S50's internal flash uses a pre-flash to determine proper exposure before firing the main flash (this is often so fast you can't see it). If this is the case (and it probably is), it will fool the typical flash slave unit and your external flash will fire with the S50's pre-flash and screw things up.

Virtually all of today's digital cameras with work with Mac's. You should plan on buying an external card reader, versus tethering your camera to your computer (that's inefficient). Get a reader that's FireWire compatible (versus USB1, which is way too slow) or USB2 compatible (if you have USB2 on your Mac).

Of the 2 you mention, I'd recommend the Olympus C-5060 (or C-5050). Olympus has FAST glass (f/1.8) and a stellar feature set. I generally shoot pro bodies (Canon 1D's) but wanted a p&S camera for times when I didn't want to lug the big guys. I spend significant time studying brands, models, feature sets, and sample images and concluded the C-5050 was the best bang for the buck. I picked one up and have not been disappointed. Of course, it's not going to perform like a pro body (or even close, for that matter), but it should do the job for you just fine.

I took the advice of a nationally famous nature photographer and use Matrix metering 99.99% of the time. Any adjustments get handled through exposure compensation settings (i.e., up a stop or two for backlit subjects). It keeps things real simple by reducing variables, and I never make the mistake of shooting a series of images before realizing I forgot to change the metering mode from the last shoot. If I need spot metering, I simply drag out my Sekonic L-508 meter and do it right.

Simple. Choose the crop tool. Set it to 300 ppi and 5 in X 7 in. Make your crop and you're done. Interpolation is handled automatically through this process, if required.

I also highly recommend the Olympus C5050 Zoom (or C5060 Zoom). The C5050's lens is lots faster and its feature set is easier to use and more comprehensive than the G5's. My research convinced me to buy the 5050 over the Canon, which was a tough decision because all my pro equipment is Canon (1D, D30). I have not been disappointed in my decision. It's one fine little camera, IMHO, and its dedicated flash system (FL-40) produces significantly more consistent results than a G5 fitted with it's dedicated top-of-the-line 550EX.

Can't answer your question but I own the Epson 3200 and find that slide scans made with it are stunning, in terms of overall quality. I read the reviews before buying this particular unit and have not been disappointed. Don't know the technical differences between your model and mine, but my guess is that they're somewhat similar.

I bought my first Mac 3 years ago. One of the smartest moves I've made in awhile. It's slower, in general, than my pc's but has proven to be infinately more reliable. Sure. It crashes occasionally and I've had some software/hardware incompatibilities to deal with - but the thing is rock stable, when compared to any pc I've ever owned. I keep a couple of pc's around for compatibility purposes (software I can't run on the Mac - like Neat Image as an example).

 

Another thing...I've had to call Apple support twice in 3 years. I always was able to talk to a live person who was ready and ABLE to provide the support I wanted WITHIN 5 MINUTES of calling them. Once was on a Christmas Eve! Try that trick with Microsoft.

 

I have to admit, however, that Windows XP Pro is a vast improvement, in terms of overall pc stability, and brings pc reliability closer (but no cigar) to Mac's.

I've used generic BP-511's in my Pro90IS, G1, and D30 for a long time. I've got 4 of them and they're different generic brands. All perform better (i.e., last longer on a charge) than my original Canon brand - and were about 1/2 the price. Go for it.

That, Sir, is ridiculous (IMHO). One of the world's finest photographers, Ansel Adams, was a serious manipulator of his images. He did his "trickery" in a true darkroom. He would have LOVED Photoshop. A good photographer knows how to make the most of his tools, including Photoshop. Making your images all they can be is not "cheating." It's what photography is all about. Ask ANY pro. I dare say that non would embrace your feelings on this matter. My better images are made to look as good as they can be with both camera and Photoshop. And how I produced the prints others enjoy is nobody's business but mine. Sorry for the rant, but this kind of stuff gets to me. Happy New Year!

While I think the 300D is an exceptional value for the money, I would never even consider using it for a paid wedding shoot (way too slow and limiting). For that you should have a pro body (1D, preferably). I'd also have to have a backup body of at least 10D quality - preferably another 1D body. And I wouldn't use prime lenses, either. They're too limiting when you're up against fast action situations in weddings. Get a couple of good "L" zooms. Maybe the 16-35 and 28-70.

 

Of course, I understand there are people out there who have successfully used 300D's and less to shoot paid weddings - but I doubt you'll find many highly successful wedding photographers using less than a pro body - and for any number of good reasons. If you're going to do a thing, do it right.

Been using mine regularly for almost 3 years and dust has never been an issue. The lens continues to provide me with tack sharp pristine images from either my 1D or D30. My advice is "don't worry about it."

The Sony 828 is too little and too late, IMHO. For the money they're asking for that camera you can almost buy a Canon 300D with its basic zoom lens - and you'll have the ability to buy more and better lenses to make that tool significantly more versatile than the 828. Now, if you could buy the 828 for ~$450 or so, it might be worth considering.

Don't wait your life away. Buy the 10D and don't worry about it. Go out and enjoy it and take lots of pictures. There will always be newly released digital cameras; but today will be gone in a heartbeat.

Of course, a digital SLR (specifically, the Canon 1Ds) is the only good response to your subject line question..."Best Digital Camera for Serious Landscape Work." But other DSLR's will give generally good results, too. Just not the "Best."

 

Now, if you're talking prosumer rangefinder-type or EVF cameras, there are several which will produce reasonably good results. Your concerns about "over saturation" are really not generally camera issues. They're camera "setting" issues. After all, any serious shooter knows that shooting the shot is only 1/2 (or less) of the job; it's how you manipulate the image in Photoshop that produces the results that people aspire to achieve. Get a model that'll let you adjust color saturation, contrast, sharpness, etc. Then YOU do the controlling in Photoshop. The Olympus C5050 Zoom is a fine little camera and will do the job very well, if you're strapped for money.

 

Since I'm not into infrared imaging, I can't offer advice there.

Yes. The Metz 54MZ-3, fitted with the Olympus foot, is totally compatible and produces better light, IMHO, than my FL-40 (costs a bit more, too). I use the Metz with my Canon 1D, D30, Pro90IS, and G1 (fitted with the Canon foot, in this case) with better light (again, IMHO) than my dedicated Canon 550EX and 420EX flashes also.

I use Wal-Mart often for large numbers of prints. You have to "spoon feed" them your files. They should be sized and ready for print when your bring them into the store. All should be at 300 ppi and cropped to the print size you want. I use a custom profile for my local Wal-Mart's Fuji Frontier printer and, after preparing my images in Photoshop, convert the image to this profile and save it before taking to Wal-Mart. I've found the results to be as close to perfect as is possible, IMHO. But, don't expect any good answers or help from the Wal-Mart workers. They're simply "button pushers" and don't have a clue what's going on inside that printer they're feeding.

They're the best thing since sliced bread, and you can take that to the bank. In

response to the poster above, I disagree that the 4X5 is better suited for image

editing than the 6X8 Wacom Intuos 2 Tablet. I happen to own both. I purchased the

4X5 first and then needed another tablet for another machine at my vacation home. I

bought the 6X8 version and, indeed, it provides better control overall than the 4X5

model. This is not opinion; it's simple fact. The downside of the 6X8 Tablet is that it

is significantly larger and takes up lots of desktop space. That said; I still use and

enjoy my 4X5 Tablet and highly recommend it if desktop space is at a premium and/

or money is an issue (the 6X8 is considerably more expensive).

Based on what I read "between the lines" in the origiinal poster's questions, I see a

person who knows pretty much zip about digital imaging. That's OK. That's fine (I

was there once, too), but I strongly suspect he is currently not handling his digital

images properly and, in his ignorance, thinks maybe it's his computer's shortcomings

that are causing his poor results. More likely, his inadequate skills are his "enemy"

and only a firm resolve to improve them will get him where he wants to be.

 

An upgraded computer, with properly installed and used digital imaging applications,

and in the hands of a knowledgeable user, can contribute to better image output. But

the world's fastest computer, in the hands of a novice, will produce the same junk

(albeit produced faster) as the old computer.

I recommend the Olympus C5050 or C5060. But, regardless of what you choose (except for a pro digital slr like Canon's 1D/1Ds models), there WILL be a lag between when your wife mashes down the shutter button and when the picture gets taken. That is NOT shutter lag. It's lag caused by the camera achieving focus lock. The delay (frustrating, I might add) is inherent in prosumer grade digital cameras. The Olympus models above are as good as any in focus-lock speed, and better than most in terms of quality, feature sets, and overall versatility.

Depends on your needs. If you're just a snapshooter, the 420EX will likely serve you well. If you're really serious into photography and want to use the best, get the 550EX. I own a couple of each and don't have anything particularly negative to say about either model. But the 550EX is more versatile, for sure.

 

Of course, there's always the Metz 54MZ3 to consider (slightly more expensive than the 550EX, but has an auto-thyristor mode that many people like). I've got a couple of those, too, and like them very much.

 

Lots to consider, I guess. Have fun.

If you read my post carefully, you will see that I stated that the 10D is, in fact, a fine camera in its price range. In fact, it is not a toy in an of itself. It is, however, a toy in comparison to the 1D or 1Ds, IMHO. You can take that to the bank.

 

And, My D30 backup is also a toy in comparison to the 1D or 1Ds. But, in fact, it does what its designed to do quite well. And, if you check around, you will see that most professional digital nature photographers using Canon equipment will much prefer the 1D over the 10D for this purpose. It's 8 fps speed is only one of the reasons for this preference. Others include lightening fast focusing, more robust everything, better build quality, and greater dynamic range - just to name a few.

 

So, respectfully, put that in your pipe and smoke it, Mister. Happy New Year, too. :-)

Buy a slave for your strobes and a small generic auto-thyristor flash for your G5. Trigger the strobes with the flash pointed up. Won't work right with your 420EX because it will fire a pre-flash that'll fool the slave.

Do yourself a favor and simply buy a Kodak Gray Card set. They're relatively cheap and deadly accurate. Home made gray cards will likely be off and defeat the purpose of using them in the first place. I shoot gray cards when I need a custom white balance and also when I want an accurate Flash exposure lock when shooting with dedicated flash units in ETTL mode.