wai_leong_lee

<p>John Kendall, "Fujica 690/100/3.5 + Auto Up and Norita 66/80/2 lens are practically the only medium format cameras with which you can comfortably take head shot portraits with" applies only to rangefinders, I suppose. </p>

<p>Filter size is a main difference. And also the fact that it's easier to set your preferred aperture and shutter speed on a CF lens than on a C lens.</p>

<p>Þórsmörk, Iceland<br>

Fuji GW690III<br>

Reala 100</p>

<div></div>

<p>24/2.8 is fabulous. See.</p><div></div>

<p>Focus can sometimes be off for me too. Good thing you can read the focus distance in the viewfinder, use that to make your own assessment before pressing the button. Pressing the focus button a few times, to check for consistency of focus, can also be used. But don't shoot wide open unless you really have to.</p>

<p>As for metering, remember this is a simple centre-weighted meter. +1 or +2 stops on negative film never hurt anybody, so why not do it all the time?</p><div></div>

<p>Miyazu, Japan<br>

April 2014<br>

Velvia 50</p><div></div>

<p>Suggest to carry a lighter MF camera than the Hassy. Suggest you use a much smaller meter like a Sekonic 208 or 308, and lose the flash, or use a smaller one like a Metz 20C-2.</p><div></div>

<p>Thanks. Not sure how it can be masked if it's the last frame. Anyway, let's see.</p>

<p>Does anyone have any idea why my scanner is showing 'browning' along the edges of the scans? It's not caused by film development, because it happens both on commercial film and home-processed B&W pictures.</p>

<p>Really look forward to your advice.</p><div></div>

<p>Frankly if you can get only three shots, there's obviously something wrong, it could be the camera, you can get it checked.</p>

<p>To answer your questions:<br>

Did you keep the camera exposed to the cold for a long time for example when you were composing for a picture?<br>

=>Yes. It's not a good idea to keep the camera warm after each shot, the lens can fog.<br>

Was the battery indicator blinking and showing that the camera was affected by the cold?<br>

=> No. It goes to half gradually and then to empty, that's about 8 rolls.<br>

Can you remember approximately when did you have to change a new battery, after the trip to Sweden?<br>

I was in Sweden for 15 days. 7 days in Kiruna and Northern Sweden, where I went on overnight trips via dog sled, went on snowmobiles, snowshoeing etc. Then down to Stockholm and Visby before crossing my way to Denmark.<br>

About how many rolls can you usually shoot with one battery?<br>

=> I shot 15 rolls in 15 days. Used two batteries. That's for cold weather.</p>

<p>Yes. I can shoot a whole day. Of course, that doesn't tell you how many rolls but certainly my T3 doesn't die after three shots.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>More likely it's your battery than the cold weather. I've had mine in Northern Sweden (see pix). It works perfectly fine. Of course, battery life is shorter in cold weather, but not so short as to be just one roll.<br>

Change your battery and bring spares.</p><div></div>

<p>Hiyoriyama Lighthouse, Shukutsu, Hokkaido.</p>

<p>Images aren't very sharp though. Worse than a 2MP mobile phone. Sigh. 1930's technology just can't keep up.</p><div></div>

<p>As shown. Scanned in a Coolscan 9000 using the medium format glass carrier</p><div></div>

For its price, it ought to be amazing...

<p>The soul of Penang</p><div></div>

<p>My contribution.</p>

<p>Love Lane, Penang, June 2013<br>

Leica M7, 24/2.8 @ f5.6, 1/125. Fuji Superia 400</p><div></div>

<p>Another one.</p><div></div>

<p>Another one, in Rollei IR Film.<br>

Mamiya 6, 80 mm lens @ F11</p><div></div>

<p>Here's mine</p><div></div>

<p>Here's mine.</p>

<p>120 film has backing paper, 220 doesn't. The film position is therefore slightly above the intended film plane and thus stopping down is required. Despite that, sharpness is still compromised.</p>

<p>Yeah. 120 film won't work well in a 220 back. You'll need to stop down quite a bit. That rules out fast shutter speeds.</p>

<p>My contribution.</p><div></div>