j._bradley_deal

<p>Does anyone feel the 700 or 800si are anymore or less durable than the Maxxum 7? The only flash issue would be HSS. M Honers website did not list that as enabled on the Maxxum 7.</p>

<p>Hello all, I have to replace Maxxum 70 body. Cheap body, the film door release jammed and locked the entire camera up. Cannot force open either. Body is not worth repair. Question is considering the 5400xi flash 50 1.7 and 28-85 old style lenses I have which body would be best match. I read in past threads that my flash does not work well with the Maxxum 7. Keh has bargain bodies just dirt cheap, so cost is not a real factor. Uses will be varied from snap shot , b&w, portrait and travel. I do want something durable.</p>

<p>Shoot with TLR. 99% of people do not know they are cameras. Wear some headphone and they would probably think your watching a movie on a retro-looking I-touch.</p>

<p>I am very jealous. One of my favorite places on the planet! Take in sunset from Airport Mesa. Sunrises are spectacular as well. If you are in reasonably good shape climb the back side of Cathedral Rock. The trail is an 800 foot climb in about 7/10's of a mile. Well worth the effort. The view is amazing. You will get the most use out of the 2 wide zooms. I shot mostly film out there w/ 28-85mm and 50mm 1.7. But, I do not shoot a lot of wildlife. Have fun.</p><div></div>

Good Morning Jiye,

I feel your pain. Your best bets are the following: Showcase Camera at Lavista and Chesire Bridge Rd, E6 of Atlanta which is downtown, or Wings Camera (404) 636-4406 at Briarcliff & Claimont RD. DO NOT waste any time at Lennox Wolf Camera -talk about a bunch jackasses. I have been there before once, my nephew worked there a month and quit - bad store poor employees. Not all Wolf Cameras are the same. I have a store near me that is very pleasant. They will process only 120 C-41 in the store for $6. They are in Tucker 770-934-5451. If you want proof prints you are out of luck still. If you can get access to a flatbed scanner you could scan an make prints from there. It would help if you could tell us if you are shooting B&W or C-41. If you are shooting B&W bit the bullet and get a tank,reel and chemicals. Many college art departments have darkrooms that is always possibilty. If you are in Emory University area you can try The Camera Doctor. He is at N. Decatur and Clairmont Rd. I know at one time he processed 120 and had carriages to print it. Start with Showcase. It is a store geared for professionals. Hope this helps.

I find that the enlarger lens is where you quality really is. Get a 6 element 50/2.8. After that to me it is more ease of use. Lenses are cheap on Ebay. Saunders LPL 670 VCCE is about as easy as I have used. Beseler 23C are good as well. If you plan to use Variable Constrast paper a "color head" or VCCE head(variable contrast constant exposure) is helpful. I own both enlargers and I can handle negatives as large as 6x9. You can just "dial in" the contrast you need. I set up my initial darkroom for around $250. Complete with a set of trays,chemicals,paper, timer & tank & reels. Check out freestylephoto.biz they have everything you need. Good luck and enjoy.-Brad

Hello Craig,

I can't speak to scanning, but if you ever intend print in a WET Darkroom you will not be able to do so with C41 color film. XP2 on the other hand handles nicely in a traditional darkroom. 400CN on the other hand can be a pain. Both do well at a minilab of course. -Brad

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It would help to know which camera you want to use it with. I have a Maxxum 70 that I use a 16mm Zenitar M42 with. Works well. You just have to make sure the lens lock is turned off. You will have to meter manually by stopping down the lens. I do not have infinity focus issues- that said a 16mm fisheye stopped 10 f11 or smaller is pretty much at infinity. I eventually got a Pentax Spotmatic body to use with the lens. Made it much easier.

Medium Format is different animal than 35mm. If medium format TLR is the route you want to take I would suggest a Yashica Mat, D or 124. All can be had for $125 or less. Look for a model with Yashinon lenses. They will give any Rolleiflex a run.

-JBD

THanks for all the suggestions guys. I definately won't be getting a 28-80D. I would like to reduce the weight some. I will keep looking at KEH I think. Jim & Matt great photos. I love good color saturation! As for the Hi-Matics I do have a Petri Racer with a 45 1.8. Soft as a baby's bottom wide open but tack sharp at f5.6 or slower. I guess my quest is for a lighter weight package in P mode so I can hand the camera to my bride or children and actually be in a photo once in awhile. Below is a photo my 4 year old took with my Max70 with 28-85 attached. It was a little scary to see him holding that heavy lens and camera and pushing the shutter.. Although he may be a natural.<div></div>

THanks for the clarification gentlemen. I do not have a D flash so that helps me make up my mind. I will never get ride of my 28-85 3.5-4.5. I am in the market for a lighter weight lens for the Maxxum 70 as a walk about for parties and such. I may look for a 35-80 F4 or even a 35-105. Are there any Xi lenses anyone should avoid? Thanks Brad

 

PS. here is an example of my 28-85 3.5-4.5><div></div>

Good morning all. I have a Maxxum 70 and may one day purchase a digital SLR in

A-mount. It is my understanding that the D= distance so, how does giving the

camera that information actually help you? Will it change the aperature during

flash situations? Is the 28-80 3.5-5.6 D worth a hoot? I currently have a 28-85

3.5-4.5 original, 50 1.7 and 70-210 4.5 Rokinon AF. Thanks for any help here. I

want a lighter zoom and can't decide which one for under $75. -JBD

Hi Sean, I have a Tamron 1.4X tele converter that works reasonably well. Paid $50 used. Not all teleconverters are equal. Mine is a "better" quality model and the AF does work with it. You can expect some softness . You may also want to check out keh.com. They have a lot used lenses. -JBD

If you can find a good used 5400HS it will give flash sync upto 1/4000. I use one regularly with my Maxxum 70. HSS works perfectly. I paid $65 at a camera show for mine. Who knows what sort of flash will be compatible with the Sony digital body. This is a cheap option until then. -Brad

Hi Chris, I started with a Maxxum 5000 a 50mm 1.7 & 70-210 zoom. Soon after came a Maxxum 70 and 28-85. But what slowed me down and urged me to think was a Yashica D medium format Twin Lens Reflex. About as completely manual as it gets and almost 4 times the size on the negative. Perfect for portraits too. It is a great camera and yes I still have it.

Hello All, I would like to find a time for TRI-X and Clayton F60. I

have used it on Tmax and Delta400. My results were satisfactory. The

starting times are from 6 to 8 min.@68F. for Tri-X depending on the

soruce one consults. I would like to here from those of you that have

used this combo and produced good results and what time worked best.

If it helps I print on a diffusion enlarger. Most of the negative are

from a concert taken with flash indoors. The only other developer I

have used is D76 my results were ok as well. I am fretting too much

or should I just call it 7min @ 68F. 1 + 9 and be done?

 

BTW -that is 1oz water + 9oz water just to be sure?

 

Thank you all.. Brad

Harry,

The short answer is no. It will function in manual mode only and HSS will not work. To get full use you have to buy a 3600 or a 5600. Do a search you will find several threads to this question. Cheers- Brad.

Jim,

Filters.com sells a Bay 1 to 49mm adaptor. I use one all the time on my Yashica D. You could use it with a standard polarizer and check it in the viewing lens. I also use a standard rubber lens hood. Cheap and it works.

-Brad

Clinton,

You make very valid point. I thought about depth of field hours after I posted my response. A friend is sending me an M42 50mm I will try it out with the adaptor.

-Brad

Gleb,

I use a M42 16mm fisheye with my Maxxum 5000 & 70 on a regular basis. I purchased the adaptor with the lens from Kiev Camera. I have had no infinity focus difficulty. I meter stop down. If shooting in even light I can also leave the camera in P mode and it will choose the correct shutter speed for the situation. I have not tried the adaptor with any other lens as of yet. Brad

Brieanna, Please have the camera checked by a repairmen. If the shutter is erratic it will be frustrating for you to learn anything. A book on exposure and camera basics is a must. Local libary should have some things. Start with the basic Sunny 16 rule. On a bright sunny day set your f-stop at 16 and your shutter speed at 1/asa of the film. Ie. 400 speed film = 1/400 or 100 speed film = 1/100 etc. There are many sources for exposure basic all over the web. Good luck and that camera checked. -Brad

Dan,

I vote for the Maxxum 70. Mine is just shy 1 year old and no problems. It has been to the beach, out west, to the mountains and held up well. You can't beat it around like you could a Maxxum 7 or 9, but for your use it should be just fine. It is the cheapest solution if buying new. BTW the IR-3 remote is great. I use mine all the for family shots. With the 50mm standard lens & the 70 you have about the lightest SLR set-up there is. Very easy to carry. -Brad

Hi Louie,

KEH has a 170-500 f5-6.3APO zoom for $429. Might be worth a try. Your father's 7000 is 1st generation so the auto-focus will be slow. The upside is that it will be compatible with any 3rd party manf. You can always resell the lens if doesn't work out. Have fun on safari!

Could using AA Ni-Mh rechargeable batteries damage my flashes in any

way? I believe these are compatible with Ni-Cad type. Or, should I

just stick with standard alkaline batteries