dougsmiley
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Posts posted by dougsmiley
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<p>I got a pack of Targus cut-to-fit screen protectors at Walmart for my S95. You get four sheets from which you can get eight protectors. I think they cost around three bucks. I used a straight edge and an Exacto knife and cut mine slightly smaller than the camera's 3" screen. I've had my protector on the camera for a little over a month. It works fine and I have no complaints. It will eventually of course need to be replaced with a new one. </p>
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<p>The camera is a subtle color, more silvery than gold I suppose, but with a warm tone. The exterior is titanium, but I don't know if calling it a titanium color would be correct (?). Thanks for the suggestions, all. Six hundred sounds like a reasonable place to start.</p>
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<p>Hey Bob, I've periodically checked for a T3 on keh with no result so far. I'd rather not deal with ebay. It seems to me that there must be members of pn, who read this "Leica and rangefinder" forum on a regular basis, who can suggest a monetary value of the T3 kit I posted. I am in the United States of America, by the way, and... <em>I am anxiously awaiting an ex officio reply.</em> </p>
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<p>I have a Contax T3, gold color, with filter adapter and Contax UV filter, also the original box, leather belt case, and wrist lanyard, two instruction manuals (English/German, and French/Spanish). All are in excellent + condition. I estimate 50/36 exp. rolls have gone through the camera. What is a fair asking price for the above?</p>
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<p>The darkroom is being used more as an office now than when it served as a commercial b&w lab. For the few personal rolls of film that I process there are no deadline constraints, so I can choose to process film an hour or 12 hours after the light is switched off. I was wanting to get some kind of idea about the leeway involved. The responses pretty much confirmed what I suspected. Thanks to all for your input.</p>
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<p>I meant to write "full spectrum" rather than "natural spectrum".</p>
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<p>I've heard that flourescent lights would fog film and paper for sometime after the light was turned off, so I've always used tungsten bulbs for white lighting in my darkroom. Now I've tried a 27 watt "natural spectrum" fluourescent desk lamp outside the darkroom and find the color of the light pleasing to the eye, and much cooler temperature wise than a bright tungsten light. Can anyone tell me what a safe timeframe would be for handling unprocessed 400 speed b&w film within a foot, say, of the light after it's switched off? </p>
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<p>Shiang, I was looking to purchase a Nikkor 28 f2.8 AIS recently from KEH. There was one AI listed as EX+ but no AIS, so I went for the AI. I've not been disappointed. Beautiful lens and sharp! I use it at between 5.6 and 8 or at 8 focused at infinity for mostly landscapes and everything is sharp from about 6' on. Also have used it at the minimum focusing distance of 1' and it does well at that too. I assume your 28mm performs similarly, so I think you would be wise to keep it. I don't believe the AIS version of the 28 f2.8 could be that much better than the AI when used for typical landscape shots. </p>
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<p>Luke, your T2 was a film camera and you indicated that it was bloody marvelous, so I naturally assumed you would go for the T3, since you seemed to feel that none of the digital cameras could match the T2. I have a T3 (which is even better than the T2, but it's not for sale : )</p>
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<p>I had a 35 RD back in the 1970s. Ordered it from Garden Camera in NY. Very sharp lens and a great little camera. I just didn't like the 40mm focal length.</p>
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<p>Have you tried to find a Contax T3?</p>
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<p>That did it. Thanks.</p>
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<p>Trying to update personal information on my community page, but when I enter new info and try to update, I get a message that my "screen name" is in wrong format. What am I doing wrong, and what is my screen name if not Doug Smiley?</p>
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<p>Another "upgrade". 12 mp rather than 10.</p>
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<p>I use the EVF in the SX10 IS for framing, checking exposure and for shooting. For playback mode I prefer the LCD screen.</p>
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<p>Thought I'd post this image to show the the capability of the SX10 IS zoom at the maximum of 560mm (equiv.) handheld at ISO 80, 1/200 sec. This shows the capture at 100%. <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/9586211">http://www.photo.net/photo/9586211</a></p>
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<p>John, what is "CHDK"?</p>
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<p>John, I now have an SX10 IS. Makes a great little mini SLR, using the EVF. I much prefer it to the G7.</p>
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<p>Another thumbs up for the SX10is. Excellent picture quality, great zoom range, decent EVF and articulated LCD monitor, loaded with features and functions. Using it is a lot like using a small SLR; and all for a decent price.</p>
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<p>Bob, that's what I'm wanting to hear.</p>
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<p>I've been very pleased with my G7. Considering getting the SX10is for several reasons, but would first like to know how the image quality of the two compare--I would want the SX to give me prints at least as good as the G7.</p>
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For my N90s, it would be the 20mm f2.8 Nikkor.
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The balloons seem to have a problem avoiding power lines. Maybe they need to find another location for their
festival.
Contax T3 Problem - Marks on Film
in DSLR & Film Cameras
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