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dougsmiley

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Posts posted by dougsmiley

  1. <p>I think it's probably the spring loaded rollers rubbing against the non-emulsion side as the exposed film is wound onto the takeup spool. As more film is exposed the roll becomes thicker and that's when the rollers start to rub against the film. I had this problem with a new T3 and mostly with TMY versus Tri-X. TMY has a thicker film base than Tri-X. I tried folding a thin piece of cardboard several times and wedging it between that springy roller bar and the take up spool, then closing the camera back and leaving it that way when I wasn't using the camera. After doing this for sometime the roller bar springiness weakened just enough that it did stop marking the film. </p>
  2. <p>I got a pack of Targus cut-to-fit screen protectors at Walmart for my S95. You get four sheets from which you can get eight protectors. I think they cost around three bucks. I used a straight edge and an Exacto knife and cut mine slightly smaller than the camera's 3" screen. I've had my protector on the camera for a little over a month. It works fine and I have no complaints. It will eventually of course need to be replaced with a new one. </p>
  3. <p>The camera is a subtle color, more silvery than gold I suppose, but with a warm tone. The exterior is titanium, but I don't know if calling it a titanium color would be correct (?). Thanks for the suggestions, all. Six hundred sounds like a reasonable place to start.</p>
  4. <p>Hey Bob, I've periodically checked for a T3 on keh with no result so far. I'd rather not deal with ebay. It seems to me that there must be members of pn, who read this "Leica and rangefinder" forum on a regular basis, who can suggest a monetary value of the T3 kit I posted. I am in the United States of America, by the way, and... <em>I am anxiously awaiting an ex officio reply.</em> </p>
  5. <p>I have a Contax T3, gold color, with filter adapter and Contax UV filter, also the original box, leather belt case, and wrist lanyard, two instruction manuals (English/German, and French/Spanish). All are in excellent + condition. I estimate 50/36 exp. rolls have gone through the camera. What is a fair asking price for the above?</p>
  6. <p>The darkroom is being used more as an office now than when it served as a commercial b&w lab. For the few personal rolls of film that I process there are no deadline constraints, so I can choose to process film an hour or 12 hours after the light is switched off. I was wanting to get some kind of idea about the leeway involved. The responses pretty much confirmed what I suspected. Thanks to all for your input.</p>

     

  7. <p>I've heard that flourescent lights would fog film and paper for sometime after the light was turned off, so I've always used tungsten bulbs for white lighting in my darkroom. Now I've tried a 27 watt "natural spectrum" fluourescent desk lamp outside the darkroom and find the color of the light pleasing to the eye, and much cooler temperature wise than a bright tungsten light. Can anyone tell me what a safe timeframe would be for handling unprocessed 400 speed b&w film within a foot, say, of the light after it's switched off? </p>
  8. <p>Shiang, I was looking to purchase a Nikkor 28 f2.8 AIS recently from KEH. There was one AI listed as EX+ but no AIS, so I went for the AI. I've not been disappointed. Beautiful lens and sharp! I use it at between 5.6 and 8 or at 8 focused at infinity for mostly landscapes and everything is sharp from about 6' on. Also have used it at the minimum focusing distance of 1' and it does well at that too. I assume your 28mm performs similarly, so I think you would be wise to keep it. I don't believe the AIS version of the 28 f2.8 could be that much better than the AI when used for typical landscape shots. </p>
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