john_stark

It won't creep if you lock it properly, or hold it properly. I use as similar lens with no problem, and I have used that lens with no problem. A lot of so called problems are just the user not using the lens correctly.

It sounds a lot like you would be in a boat. In that situation I think you'd be best off with one single lens so that you do not need to change lenses. I'd suggest the Canon EF 28-300 USM IS f3.5-5.6. It is however an expensive lens, but very good, quality lens that gives plenty of quality shots. The IS will help you as well.

I have one and really like it.

JS

Alistair Windsor , nov 01, 2005; 10:41 p.m.

John,

Maybe you should consider writing up a web page for those people who don't search for earlier threads. Then you wouldn't have to respond to these Err 99 messages. By the way did I mention that I have a 20D focusing problem. Do you know anything about this ?

 

 

**

Why should I write a webpage for the 20D... I don't own that lowly model, I shoot pro gear, and don't waste my time with cheap gear... except trying to teach people who are too lazy to read on their own, either their manuals or the multitude o forum articles on these very problems...not my fault Terry McAllister is too dang lazy to READ, or use common sense to see he answered his own question. If something ONLY occurs with that lens it would stand to reason that it IS that lens causing the problem. I realize though now, logic does not run too rampant around here. But hopefully Terry learned SOMETHING, and will now look for prior threads before posting, or maybe he will figure it out LOGICALY...we can only hope.

The only "problem" I ever heard of was "repaired" by the firmware update.... next time phrasing the question properly would help.... either way the answer is NO... just make sure it has the latest firmware for that model, do NOT try using MKII or MKII N firmware.

You don't say what kind of shooting you plan to do which realy limits the options we have to help you.

Now if you shoot sports, low light etc. go with the 70-200, if you shoot nature and have plenty of light the 100-400. Remember though using the 1.4 or 2 x in there you will lose a step and instead of gaing twwo or three with the new generation IS you will only gain 1 or 2.

Well the day I got my 1D back from Canon after AF repair I was in a hurry to get to a newspaper job. I threw the strap on, threw a battery in and put a lens on headed out the door with it over my shoulder. Just as I got to the end of the sidewalk my shoulder felt light and then I heard the crash. The body of the camera hit the gravel and the lens hit the cement sidewalk. I picked it up, it seemed OK so I jumped in the truck and headed off to work. Once there the camera and lens both worked fine, and have since then too.

I did loose one lens a couple years ago when it took a direct hit from a basketball during a game. Fortunately it was very late in the game and the lens only cost $200. Knocked it right off the body, but didn't damage the body.

Yeah, and Nikon wouldn't take theirs back...even they know better!

Yeah, I'm being sarcastic..but

I'm not saying Nikon has no good glass, just not as good as most of Canon's "L" series. Granted a couple of Canon's lenses suck, but for the majority...great stuff. However, when you use non-Canon lenses you open yourself up to other problems such as degrading AF over time. I know, I had to have my 1D repaired due to non-Canon lens. Why cause trouble? Sell your Nikon gear, buy used or new Canon lenses and save problems in the long run.

Your Welcome...somehow I thought that would do it, just remember I had that problem once and thought that was I did too.

LOL, yeah, I know....it is really frustrating seeing the same stuff. Maybe PN can make a code that junks new threads on old topics and sends the poor folk to a list of the 5000 messages on err99 and 20D focus problems :)

I'm on another photo forum and you rarely see the same things over and over like you do here and they are getting more "newbies" than PN. Kind of makes you think these people are googleing an error 99 and come up with PN and then jump right in to the forum, posting and not reading the previous 5000 posts...only one should answer their question.

Well Terry, since your so smart then pick up the phone, call Canon tech support and tell them your sending your new lens and your 20D in for repairs...that wasn't difficult now was it?

 

 

As to the person who said they would/shouldn't buy the 70-200 2.8 I think you got a problem. I have one, works great, no problems with error messages (ie: err99) no IS problems... excellent lens. But like anything mechanical or electronic it can have failures, and this lens has far fewer failures than other lenses do, and they last forever, even getting beat up with years of abuse. I know several shooters whos 70-200 2.8's look like they went through wars and they never miss a shot.

Actually you'd be coming from the darkside to the light...but why buy a Canon and waste a good body on garbage lenses (when compared to Canon lenses)

what in the world? How could serial number have anything to do with number of activations other than a larger number would be a newer unit. maybe it was someones backup and didn't get used much, or it could be a refurb and was reset... it doesn't matter

check custom functions and personal functions

first off... brilliant, you know there are other threads on this subject (7 the past week) but instead of reading those you add to the ERR 99 list.... nice job!

 

Secondly, you answered your own question when you said it only happens with the NEW lens, obvious stating that and inferring that it does not occur with other lenses you use. It aint rocket science!

As for basketball:

1: try NOT to use flash

2: If you need more light, get up high and shoot down to get a stop or two off the floor reflection of the light.

 

I used to have a 35-105 (I think thats it) that I used for BB but it was busted at a game, great lens but I never replaced it. I now use a 19-35mm under then net or my 70-200 but if I have good light I'll use the 28-300 and get stuff at both ends of the court.

Nikon will never be able to compete with Canon. Nikon will always have issues, whether it is noise, failures, or lousy service. Nikon lenses will never be equal to the Canon "L" series lenses. Canon could care less what Nikon does, especially when there are many more people switching daily to Canon equipment and leaving Nikon in the dust. This is especially true in the high end market, and news/sports world.... Nikon simply cannot compete, never will. With the 5D, 20D market Canon still leads easily. Nikon can't compete there either, no matter how hard they try. Nikon is three years behind Canon in technology, and in some cases even farther behind. Today the only reason to buy Nikon is because you don't want to pay to play, but you get what you pay for, and when you buy a Canon you get quality, whether is a quality body or lens. Even resale prices should show you that Canon is ahead of Nikon, QUALITY!

Ok, it's basically for programers but you get the idea, it should be

read before posting questions, then we may not have to answer the

same old questions day after day after day.

 

You all know how aggravating it is seeing the same thread 20 times

a day, or week about 20D focus problems or error 99.... the ideas in

this document could save our efforts for real problems :)

 

http://www.catb.org/%7Eesr/faqs/smart-questions.html

Paul,

I shoot sports for several papers and shoot a lot of night football and use a 580EX flash on a 1D and 1D MKII shooting with both cameras and flash in manual mode. I use two lenses: EF 70-200mm USM IS f2.8 and EF 28-300mm USM IS f3.5-5.6 and get great results. Usually I shoot between 800 ISO and 1250 ISO, rarely at 1600. I usually shoot with the flash between 1/4 and 1/8 power. I used to use a 430EX flash, it's OK, but eats batteries compared to the 580EX. You can pay for a 580EX just in battery savings over a year if you shoot a lot. The amount of flash I use is usually just a fill flash and I dial it up or down depending on how far away they are. It takes a little practice to figure out what settings work best for your combination of camera, lens and flash.

The 20D focuses slower and has more shutter lag than the 1D bodies so you need to anticipate more too.

Here is one shot from the first night out with the 1D MKII N the 580EX and the EF 28-300mm Lens. As you can see the players are closer to the far sidelines than they are to me and the flash (which was on auto that night) worked fine.

JS

http://www.photo.net/photo/3807609

Andrew Carlson , oct 30, 2005; 03:22 p.m.

for some reason consumers today think the LCD screen is far more important than anything else on the camera. I don't even use mine but once in a while.

now if ya find a way to prevent dust from landing on the sensor for $20 I'm in. Not looking for a blower or brush to clean it but a way to keep it from going there in the first place...oh well here's to hoping.

 

Actually I have come up with a way to do just that...amazing the manufacturers haven't thought of it. The best part is it cost me maybe a dollar....but if I market it I think it will cost $20-$25 just so I can afford gas and new gear every week.....hey, if your willing to pay.... why not!

It could be too that your 1D is in need of AF repair. Mine stopped AF completly but worked great in manual mode... you may want to try that out. At first I thought the diopter was the problem but the shots looked bad too so it wasn't that. $285 including shipping to get repaired.... 4 weeks without it. 2 weeks waiting on parts alone.

 

JS

Teeth? Ok, now I have heard everything. I have had my old 1D for three years, shooting in all kinds of nasty places, had rocks hit the camera a race tracks, hit the ground when a race car flew into the catch fence where I was standing, beat and banged around against other camera bodies getting from place to place and still not a scratch on the ole screen. Heck, the body only has two spots where the paint is chipped.

 

I saw a used 1D for sale once that had 60% of the paint missing, yet it worked great, and the screen had two scratches on it, still looked good and didn't affect viewing though. But then again, those things are hard to view any way... glad the MKII N has a bigger view and ZOOM!

 

JS

Nigel,

I have both a 1D and 1D MKII N. Common sense would say that if you are trying to compare two cameras you need to take shots with both cameras you need to use the same lens and settings on both cameras to get a true feel for how each shoots and to get an idea of how noise is different, contrast differences etc. Make sure contrast and sharpness settings are the same as well.

In my own tests I found the MKII N was much better than the old 1D, but not that much different. My old 1D started showing noise (barely) at 800 iso, and it really depended on the subject, lighting etc. The MKII I can get similar results at 1000 ISO, yet when I shoot at 1250 ISO and clean the shot using PS it is just as good as one shot at 800 on the old 1D.

I now use my old 1D as a backup to the new MKII N, simply because I like the LCD screen on the MKII N and being able to zoom in on the shots and check focus and so on.

I think the MKII N also does a much better job of WB than the old 1D though. I do not have to adjust it every place I go like I did with the original, but that may just be an internal adjustment that was off in the old one.... I may check that out one of these days, wonder if they fixed that when they fixed the fixed the AF on the old one.

 

JS

Only thing close would be a 1D, but faster would be MKII N... there aint no such thing as a P&S that could come close to the pro models...

LOL... yeah, mine had the right manual (1D MKII N - a REAL MANUAL!) Only problem was they had a 5D Warranty card ? what the ? So I went to the website to register the body online.... no online registration.... doah.... and then I called Tech Support to register. What a pain the a// !

Anyway, every camera I ever bought came with a manual... even my three Canons... 300D, 1D, 1D MKII N, both lenses even had their manuals, and even the 580EX comes with a manual.

I at one time thought it was just people couldn't read so they got on the forums ... but wait, they gotta read there too! So it aint a readin problem, it has to be just plain lazyness... ;et some fool who knows the answer and read the manual give me the answers....

 

READ YOUR OWNERS MANUALS... thats what they are for.... save the forum for REAL questions NOT Covered in the mauals... should cut out 90% of the threads here....

try using SEARCH.... saves a lot of hassels going over same old stuff

 

_ = RGB is selected instead of SRGB