john_stark

There is software that can tell you the count for any Canon digital from the 300D and up. I don't have the link on this computer or I'd post it. You can find it via a google search.

 

JS

9 weeks to get my 1D back in October. And they sent it back with a fingerprints on the mirrior and dirt on the IR Filter. I called and complained about the shape it was in when I got it back and they said "send it back we'll clean it". Instead it went to the dealer who cleaned it and billed Canon.... total time without camera 11 weeks!

 

JS

From Canon....and they are pretty cheap considering... I think $12 plus S&H

 

Just make sure when installing it NOT to touch the glass or the oils from your skin will burn the tube out again.

 

JS

Never format cards in a PC, always do it in the camera!

 

JS

First off it's NOT on the SENSOR, it's on the IR FILTER....I wish manufactuerers and pro's would use the correct terminology so as not to confuse the newbie's.

 

Anyway, if I were you I'd take it to your local dealer and pay them to clean it properly. So it costs you $45 or so, thats a lot less than replacing the IR Filter and sensor (the filter is attached to the sensor).

Leaving the grease on it may deteriorate the filters coating.

 

JS

yeah it will work, but it isn't a very good lens. The barrel tends to loosen up causing focus issues. I had one for a year and sent it in for repair three times to get the barrel tightend

 

JS

Glad you like shot, however these girls are no slouches and the speed is pretty darn close to what you get at college level (in fact these kids will be in college next year) I have stopped high speed action, but use strobes to do it. You could mount strobes up high and it won't affect the players. It will cut your ISO and noise WAY down too!

 

As for your parties, go with a flash and bounce it as said above. Manual focus if needed.

 

I am waiting for Canon to ship the new "S" focus screen for low light...that will be a big help with us 1D MKII N users who shoot low light a lot.

 

JS

Yakim,

 

The 1D "original" does NOT have ETTL II and therefore the 580EX only communicates in ETTL I or TTL with that 1D. However, using it in manual mode works very well for times you can't get what you want otherwise. It will however save you $$ in batteries using manual mode.

As peviously stated your friends 20D needs a firmware update.

On the MKII N the ETTL II works wonders, and battery use is minimal. In fact, after almost three months I have only used three sets of batteries, where before I'd use a set every night just for a football game....huge savings there!

Alexis,

 

Shooting in low light is not a problem for the 1DMKII N, and from my experiance after shooting with a 5D one night the 1D MKII N was better noise wise at 1600 using the same lens on both bodies (Canon 70-200 USM IS f2.8). The guy who owned the 5D retuned it the next day and bought the MKII N after our real world test at a football game. The 5D is nice, but it is out performed in many areas by the 1D MKII N. If you need speed and a sealed body, go with the 1D MKII N. If you do a lot of work with flash, then go with the 1D MKII N and a 580EX, they are unbeatable! I do not know how long the 5D battery lasts but I can shoot forever on the MKII N with a single battery (generally I get a week out of one battery). The 580EX also uses batteries very sparingly.....fantastic combo there!

 

JS

I shoot in some very dark gyms all the time using a 1D MKII N or old 1D and never shoot higher ISO than 1600 with Canon 70-200mm USM IS f2.8 lens.

You can normally pick up one or two stops by getting above the the action and shot down getting the light reflecting off the floor. The IS really helps though, and even more at floor level. Some motion blur won't hurt the photos, and in most cases helps give a sense of action that completly freezing the action loses.

Knowing PS really helps when doing post processing.

JS<div></div>

Jose Gil , dec 12, 2005; 06:27 p.m.

Depends on how long you half press for. The entire time you're half pressed, the IS is running.

For me (and I half press for a long time waiting for that moment), I'd say 30%

 

Not according to Canon. Accordingto Canon IS is only active for so many seconds, if you do not push the shutter down all the way in the alloted time or the camera doesn't move the IS shuts off and will restart when you push the shutter part way again.

 

JS

Just an fyi....format the card after every use, and only format it in the camera.

and: formating is faster than erasing.

 

JS

It's less than the AF uses, which Canon says is around 20% of battery consumption on the MKII N....and thats not noticeable at all as that camera is very power conservative. I get a week out of one battery now...whereas with the old 1D I was lucky to get one basketball game!

 

JS

Ron that is BS! I have had excellent results with my 28-300. I have some shots with it I have crops at 100% view and they are as sharp as any other top lens....but then I know how to use it, apparently you don't.

If you find a 1D for under $1000 I'd steer clear of it. Most are going for $1400-$1600 and units under that probably have problems or close to 200,000 actuations (or both).

 

JS

The 28-300 is a great lens, the people who put it down just don't know how to use it properly, that is NOT the lenses or Canon's problem. I have one and use it on MK II N as well as on the old 1D, but recently got to see it used on a 5D and 1Ds MKII and it did exceptionally well on them. In fact the people who own th 5d and 1Ds MKII are buying this lens now that they tried mine, they loved it.

I bought it so I wouldn't have to change lenses all the time, especially at races.

I have used it in very dusty enviroments and get no dust internally because I use it properly.

 

JS

On the 1D MKII N it works fine, not sure about the 5D though.

Just don't let the TSA, Secret Service, FBI or US Marshals try and take the lens off like they did to a photog at the Super Bowl last year...they broke the lens AND camera! And last I knew STILL hadn't replaced the destroyed gear. How hard is it to get a lens off a 1D MKII ? Apparently pretty tough when you have no clue what your doing.

Christian Hoffmann , nov 29, 2005; 03:58 p.m.

Well protective filters are another story in my opinion, they cost a lot of money and degrade image quality to a certain degree.

In contrast to them screen protectors are worth a shot i think, they are cheap and if i don't like them, they go in the trash can.

 

 

Christian,

Don't worry about the LCD screen. I use my cameras hard and my 3+ year old 1D doesn't have a scratch on the LCD screen. It's had other cameras bang into it, scrapped against cement walls and all kinds of things....save your money for those worthless filters to protect the glass on your lens instead!

I use Hoya UV (0) filters which do not change colors, and I can't see any photo degredation with using these filters. I'd rather pay $43 for these than spend hundreds having the glass repaired on my "L" lenses. Well worth the money and they have saved a couple lenses in the past.

John

I'd save the extra $100 and get the 580EX, much better flash and it will save you money in the long run battery wise.

 

JS

Darren Riethmiller , nov 24, 2005; 06:18 p.m.

Plus my paper doesn't have a backup; though I could get one to borrow for the 2-week turnaround that it usually takes. Plus, I think my one-year warrantee is up.

 

*** If you think you will get it back in two weeks, think again. It took 5 1/2 weeks to get a 1D back, and then I had to send it out to get it cleaned because Canon returned it with a finger prints all over the mirror and black spots on the the sensor....another week before I finally got it back. So 6 1/2 weeks total without it. That was back in September and October. Add to it, now you have to deal with the holidays, so add a week or two, if not more.

 

I think I'd tell the paper to buy a camera for you to use...there are some good deals on used 1D's which would be much better for sports anyway. Hey, they can write it off of their taxes, or you could buy one and write it off.

I have never seen flare from this lens, and I have used it in all kinds of conditions that would cause flaring.

 

JS

Pascale Rodot , nov 24, 2005; 12:21 p.m.

***Has anyone tried that lens and how is it like?

 

It is big, heavy and expensive...but I love it :)

 

 

***Does it worth the money?

Is it worth the money? Only you can answer that...for me it sure was

 

 

***I plan to buy it in December so I'd really like to know ur thoughts and opinions about this lens and any advice u may have. Thx in advance for ur help. :)

 

 

I used the 28-300, 35-300 and 100-400 and the 28-300 was the best of the bunch, but it should be for the cost. I too use this lens in all kinds of conditions shooting sports and think it's a very good lens. Photos need a bit more sharpening at the longer end on occasion but it's no problem, to print a 14x19 I really wouldn't have to do any sharpening. All of my latest photos were shot with this lens so take a look (it's the file with 5 photos in it) Oh, it does very nice closeups too!

 

JS

THis is how I shoot all my sports. For one it will save battery power as you are not constantly focusing unless you push the button.

 

I always use SRGB for everything. Most newspapers print systems are new enough to use this. RGB has been passed by in most cases.

 

JS

Mark B Bartosik (www.mbbphotography.com) , nov 20, 2005; 09:44 p.m.

......"in my opinion still 100% better than the 10D, 20D or 5D for versitality and can take abuse that NONE of the others can.".....

In your opinion maybe, but not in mine. I own one 10D (not in use for a long time) and two 20Ds - one of them from the first batch shipped. Both 20Ds were in mud, sand and dust on the constant bases and never failed so far from those factors. I do not shoot from tripod but usually laying on the ground, mostly in very unfriendly environment. Problems may happen when you start to change lenses too often in wrong place (and dust and water seals won't help you there). That is a reason I prefer to use 2 cameras with different lenses when in field.

 

 

** Most people aren't going to take their 20D into mud etc. If they do it WILL have problems, they have no watertight seals. I know one 20D user who HAD a brand new 20D fried because of few drops of rain. It took just one drop of rain on the right button to fry the thing. My 1D has seen three yeas + of bad weather and harsh envroments, including going from one extreme to another and back wihout problems. The one day a guy using a 20D had shot out in the cold, then went to a swimming pool to shoot and then back outside to another shoot. He didn't get the indoor or second shoot done and his paper had to buy my photos because his camera couldn't deal with the adverse conditions. So go ahead and play in the mud with your 20D, when your whing they won't work I'll be making money with my 1D and 1D MKII N.