exabetal

"..the M4, not the best one around.." Blasphemy... ;-)

Doesn't look original to me. The levers and eyelets on the original M4 BP are black paint also.

If it's chrome it might be the famous v1 8-element summicron. Is the infinity lock the wide thumb support?

<p>the numbered frame counter disc is plastic in the early M4-2s.</p>

<p>Leica OK, but it looks like the glass in the RF window at the right is missing...</p>

Thanks for your response. I had an FL bellows and slide copier twenty years ago for my EF and A-1, but sold it once I "moved up" to EOS. I wasn't aware that Canon had bellows for EOS cameras. Anyway, I got a new FL bellows now and wanted to check out if "scanning" my old slides and negs into with my EOS 40D was feasible using this set up.

I'm familiar with using a Nikon Coolscan V, but it's not mine and I have to borrow it for every new roll of film.

 

So I understand that the quality is lowish in comparison to what comes out of the Coolscan? It's back to finding an affordable quality scanner than...

I'm looking for a slide duplicator FL for use on my FL bellows. With the bellows mounted via an FD to EOS mount

adapter in principle this could be useful as a slide digitizer. Anybody tried this? How does the quality compare

to slides scanned with a true scanner, say the Nikon V or 9000?

 

Anybody has a slide duplicator on sale for cheap? Anybody knows were I could buy one. Adorama doesn't have one

and KEH's website seems out of order. I'm in the Netherlands.

If it's really mint, you don't want it serviced and risk the tiniest mark, and since you don't want to shoot it, it doesn't matter ;-)

If you want to use a IIIg, sell the mint one as it is and buy a good user and save some money in the end.

Thanks Mark,

 

I'm in the Netherlands. I have a favorite camera repair person nearby, but he's into mechanical cameras (Leicas and Hasselblads and such) and hates electronic stuff. I'd be very happy with suggestions.

 

I have plenty other FDs, so I don't despair about the T90, but I'm a fussy shooting collector and like all my cameras fully functional.

Recently I got a nice T90 which seemed to function properly, at least all modes worked, exposure meter was ok,

film transport, etc, all worked fine. However after finishing my first roll the film didn't rewind, neither

automatically nor after using the rewind button behind the door. I could only get my film out in the darkroom. Am

I missing something or is my T90 broken? If broken, is this an easy (do-it-yourself?) fix or should I consider my

beautiful T90 as a one-film-only-and-back-to-the-darkroom camera?

Thanks for your replies.

The listing of differences between the "Leitz" and "Leica" M6s on the CameraQuest website seems a bit too strict. I have a late 1968 hybrid M6 with engraving at the top plate, embossed "Made in Germany" in the leather, crinkle paint on the body casing, metal rewind, etc. of the early "Leitz" M6, but also with the squared light baffle, gold contacts with "arrows", rubber strap inserts and rubber eye piece of the later "Leica" M6. Leica didn't change making camera's differently over night.<div></div>

So, there's still a few that I miss...

Don't expect a lot. Decent OM-2n's go for 30-80 $US these days. The 50 1.8 won't bring more than 30 US$. I can't say much about the Vivitar zooms, although I expect they're less wanted than many prime Olympus lenses.

It depends on the aperture. With the lens fully open (<2.8) it takes just a couple of seconds to burn a hole in the shutter cloth. With the lens fully closed (>16) perhaps a minute. That's when a fairly high sun is in picture frame and the camera isn't moving. Best thing to do is keep the cap on. I find this one of the most annoying things of rangefinders with cloth shutter curtains.

Thanks John. Wonderful to find your response here. With your helpful comments I was able to release the aperture coupling ring back to its original position. After fiddling a little bit with getting the timer ring aligned again with the gear wheel to get the shutter times back to normal, the camera is almost functioning like it should be. The aperture ring now goes clockwise with opening the lens, but it doesn't get back yet because there's too much friction for the spring to pull it back. I have to take off the lens and push the lever back to the closed position manually. Problem is that the ring isn't circular anymore, probably because it was stuck in the "open" position too long and got deformed. I understand the camera has not been used for at least 15 years. The camera belonged to a lab where it served as a microscope camera. When it no longer made good pictures it was put aside and a new Oly 2SP was bought.

 

I'm hoping the ring gets back its original shape with some time on the shelf and will ease up a little. In any case, I'm going to keep my eyes open for a cheap, broken OM-2 for a replacement ring.

 

Anyway, thanks a lot for your excellent help.

Thanks guys, I was afraid it was this lever. I've heard good things about John Hermanson, but I live in the Netherlands and mailing cameras back and forth over the Atlantic adds up much to the cost for a CLA, especially with the import duties that probably have to be paid to Dutch customs. I'm thinking of trying to fix it myself. Kind of like that challenge :)

Hi,

 

Although this forum seems to predominantly be dedicated to digital Olys, I hope there are still classical film OM

aficionados that could help me with this problem I have with my recently obtained OM2n. With a lens mounted to

the camera, the set aperture doesn't seem to communicated to the body. Changing aperture in manual or auto mode

doesn't change the position of the meter needle. Changing the speed in manual mode does result in a stepwise

moving of the needle. The obvious lever that would sense the lens setting that I feel could be responsible for

this is indicated by the arrow in the attached image. This lever (if it is the responsible lever) seems to be

stuck and it seems to be marred also, maybe by the movement of the corresponding lever of the lens. Would anybody

have any idea about fixing this myself? Is there anybody willing to make a similar photo showing the normal

situation, so that I could determine how the lever should be positioned?

 

As a Leica M and Canon FD SLR enthousiast I'm really impressed by this little Oly that I got it two weeks ago. I

had to wait for two weeks to get my lenses (Zuiko 50 1.8 and Zuiko 100 2.8) and I hate it see that my new system

doesn't seem to work as it's supposed to. If the camera is broken beyond repair, which I don't hope, because it's

in a really nice condition, I'll probably get myself another OM body (OM-1, OM-3??).

 

In any case, thanks for your help!

 

Regards, Huub<div></div>

<p>I wholeheartedly second that. Will and Cathy have attended a couple of my cameras and lenses over the years. They're great!</p>

<p>Isn't that a Minolta RF. Looks great!</p>

<p>Be glad it's only one that found your house. The last few years a whole orphanage managed to find mine ;)<br>

Congrats with the M4P! You'll love shooting film again.</p>

<p>@Berry Reid: This is an amazing shot!</p>

<p>I understand the only advantage of the AE finder for the F-1N is that it shows the chosen F stop and the time chosen by the camera when the speed diual is set to A. The camera also works in AE with the regular prism finder, but it doesn't show the calculated speed. Is it worthwhile to get an AE finder instead of the regular finder, despite the bigger and heavier setup?</p>

<p>According to the LTM numbers listing on the CameraQuest website, this number is from a set of chrome Leica III's. Are you sure it isn't repainted? A couple of pictures would be helpful.</p>

<p>Paris. Not an RF I'm afraid ;)<img src="http://website.leidenuniv.nl/~linthorsthjm/album/Parisien showers.JPG" alt="" /></p>

<p>The Leica M1 is a rangefinderless version of the M2. It was made as a document camera for use in labs on microscopes, endoscopes and the like, or for use with the Visoflex reflex housing. They're not too handy for everyday shooting, although with ultra wides they work excellently. Not too many were made, which makes them sought after by collectors who want to complete a full M range (1,2,3,4,5,6,7 ;). A clean one could be worth between 400-700 US$.<br>

The 50mm Elmar lens is pretty common too. If clean and scratchless it should bring around 200 US$</p>