robert_meyers

Just for clarification here. I am not new to photography. I also, always have done my photography with glasses on. I also do quite a bit of scale focusing.

 

But what does LF mean?

I was not trying to throw out the lens suggestions, just wanted to point out why they were, what they were.

Ok, it sounds like I need to explain the lens choices I had listed:)

 

My main carry I was thinking would be a 50/2 Planar (I love my 45 Planar) and a 21/2.8 Biogon (which is often the lens I match with my 45/2).

 

Now the weird ones. The 35/1.2 was simply for low light, and would only be carried on demand. Otherwise it would not be around. The 90/2 was simply for portraits. I love tight DoF portraits, and they are incredibly hard to get my preferred look off of digital? so it is one of my self justifications:)

 

Now I had not known the P had a 1.0 magnification. That is incredibly interesting.

 

Does anyone know how the M6TTL will behave in rain? I like shooting during fires and storms, so, it would really be nice if it would work there as well? but it is a major point of interest.

Ok. Still sitting on the darn fence? but getting ready to jump. I

just have a couple more questions, to help edge myself along.

 

First I found a new (with Passport) M6TTL for $1500. It is a

chrome .85. I would be looking at the following lenses: 35/1.2

Voightlander, 50/2 Planar and 90/2 Summicron (and the 21mm Biogon,

but I have my G Biogon?s viewfinder... so irrelevant). Problem, I

wear glasses, though I can barely see the 35mm markings, so would

this possibly be an issue in the long run for me? Also, is this the

magnification you would suggest for these lenses? As an FYI, I

prefer shooting with two eyes open.

 

Now comes the weird question: in harsh weather, will this camera be

something to put in a pouch, or use? Rain and cold. High humidity

and high heat. My planned travel for next year is going to run the

gamut. This is a big issue for me.

 

Comments? Suggestions? Issues?

 

So far from feedback for me or others, I seem to keep killing off

choices (CL and R3A for example). Hopefully, I finally have a good

choice.

 

Thanks!

In general, Minolta has a long histroy of good lenses. I have heard good things about their LTM lenses, but never seen one. For a reasonable price, I would pick one up in a heart beat.

"The first thing that I was told when I got out of Hospital yesterday, was that the only Leica dealer in San Diego had gone belly up. Why?

Does anybody know the reason for Bob Davis Camera Shop went broke? "

 

Why they went broke? Couldn't tell you. They often were over priced though. They also slowly had been discontinuing lines (contax last year). They had a huge space for their inventory though. Had to be hard. Not to good in the service dept though.

 

A brick and mortar store has to offer service. I never recieved any. NCC/Calumet Escondido sells leica though. And they are a store that offers SERVICE. I also like Carlsbad Village Camera (used selection, and incredible service, normally has CLs, M3s and LTM cameras in stock at good prices).

So are the al a carte prices changing? I have heard yes and no to this? This is where I am on the fence. My wife will not argue if there is going to be an increase there as well.

If Leica cut all old stock items still in inventory by 50%, this could help induce people buying new stock. Maybe, purchase an MP and get 50% of one non-apo lens? Or some such.

 

These items have to have enourmous profit margins. They just cannot cost as much to make as some dealers let on. They could not afford to do business with those kinds of margins.

With the 90/2.8 G SOnnar, the G2 is a great street portrait camera. Get used to the focusing though. It has a learning curve, just like any other camera.

 

Congrats. I have a G1 with 21/28/35/45/90, and all of them are stunning lenses. I like.

Ok. Just as an aside, good luck. Rangefinder photography is slightly different than SLR. I keep hovering on the edge of getting into Leica-dom myself. But I know the differences... Currently sold everything but my Contax G1 and my Oly E-1 DSLR. The cost is all that makes me hesitate (and the fact I would then go out and rebuy all my G lenses as M... because those are my favored focal lengths).

 

Oh well. Good luck!

:Andre Tchen , mar 13, 2005; 05:06 p.m.

:Yep, you're right, Nat, the Oly 14-54 is $500 street nowadays, I should have checked the :recent prices 03/2005; incorrectly assumed lenses maintain their prices, while body :prices decline.

 

Huh? Andrew, I believe the 14-54/2.8-3.5 released at $499. The 11-22/2.8-3.5 released at $799 and the 50-200/2.8-3.5 released at $999. I do not see any price changes there. The 300/2.8 has come down a grand, but it was over priced. Actually, I think this is pretty much a given? the lenses haven?t really dropped much at all.

 

:Or, for a few hundred $ more, at about $1,100 the Panasonic Lumix DCM-LC1 (same as :the Leica Digilux 2, actually better looking). Also 5 megapix, silent, and not so good :above 100 ASA - but a top notch Leica lens, arguably the best -.

 

Just as an aside, when I put my standard carry lens on my E-1 (a Contax 45/2.8), it is actually a smaller package than the LC1 (I thought of one for street? but currentl.y sticking to G1). Neat idea though? and nice camera.

 

:Andre Tchen , mar 13, 2005; 09:28 p.m.

:while rhe older generation Oly E-1 resolves only 1400 vert / 1250 horiz LPH (add also :some 'bad' moire artifacts), see :http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/olympuse1/page21.asp

 

You know, while Phil does a lot of nice reviews? this one is a sore spot for most oly users. Oly had fixed several of the issues almost instantly, and several of the issues that were noticed (like artifacts), were mainly from Adobe Camera RAW (which has also since been fixed by Adobe, and was a noticed problem). Remember, there have been four firmware revisions to the camera? and in all truth, two of them were like going out and buying a replacement camera. Very nice.

Auto. Midgets and sprints mainly.

:Nathanael Galler , mar 12, 2005; 03:27 p.m.

:Robert, don`t you think it will be dated in two years? :-/

:By the way, it seems that there will only be a new high class E-:Olympus (many thousend $) this year but no new E-1, E-3... Also a

:low budget SRL (lower than E300) is planned.

 

Maybe... but in truth, it has all the resolution I need (16x20 and 12x18 about as large as I go). It beats the E-300 in low light. Lasts for nearly 2000 shots with power pack... and will cost under a grand for a used body.

 

In all truth, I don't think I can go wrong. When the E-1n or E-3 comes out... I will need to buy 2 anyways, so, what the hell. I cannot keep barrowing backup cameras.

 

Also, in the way I use a camera it beats: D70/D100, 20D, S3. None of those cameras are cameras I can trust to keep working, if someone drops a body, or it gets sprayed with muck. I drop it or what not. I mainly do racing but am branching out into wedding lately. So I need a camera that will survive. If the EOS 1DII had come out on time, and not be delayed, I would have stuck with Canon. They didn't, so I sold my C gear. No need to jump again. No benefit. I looking into jumping to D2X... it would have cost me somewhere in the 15-17K range. Way to high.

I have an E-1. I can say that the camera itself is awesome. The pictures are good. I just ordered a second stoboframe pro-t, FL-50 flash, 50/2 Macro, and assorted accessories while I am looking for a second body (figured the flash and pro-t can be used on y contax g1 for now). Oh, and lenses are supposed to always be compatible with ANY four thirds camera. Note that Panasonic will be releasing one next year.

Yes there is a price war in the works. Think on this: MSRP (after rebate) is US$999 for the EVOLT E-300 Two Lens Kit (includes both the 14-45mm f3.5/5.6 and 40-150mm f3.5/4.5 Zuiko Digital). That is a hell of a push. This is not with any discounts you may have... just MSRP. Oh, and both lenses are getting great feedback... not really expected in that range of lens.

Hmmm... Bargin? Beat to hell. Still works smothly... no damage or dust on elements of lens... would do so again. For a lens. Not sure I would go for Bargin on a body...

 

Easy to deal with though.

In the end, you pay for power with flashes. Simple rule of thumb: buy the most power you can afford. It means you be less likely renting flashes. More money in pocket over the long run. The biggest part I would look at would be which you can use with a uantum turbo or the like. Removing the need for switching batteries is just an incredible boost. The 420ex does not (IIRC), the 550EX and 580EX do.

 

Good luck.

Interestingly, I use a Olympus E-1, which has a 2x crop. I think if it is in a dim location my primary is an 11-22mm F2.8-3.5, and outdoor, 14-54mm F2.8-3.5. Both work nicely.

I consider the 100mm F/2 USM to be one of the best lenses made by Canon. It is an awesome portrait lens, and is incredibly inexpensive.

 

Good luck!

I used a HD based backup solution, copyed card, cleared card... lost over 1000 images. It died. One race gone. Not good.

How much, if you don't mind?

Maybe 30. No more. Interesting thought here though. Interesting indeed.

Go to dpreview.com there is a very active E-1 forum.

Interestingly, on the G1 and G2 by Kyocera you can selectivly disable the autowinder by using the multiple exposure button. Is there no comparative way on the RF?

 

Odd if true. Kinda lame as well.

So what should people be looking to pay for an M6TTL? I have seen one recently for US$1999. Is this good, bad or indifferent?