lottie_hope
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Posts posted by lottie_hope
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I thought it might be fun to offer fast fun portraits at my kids' school summer fair, (outside) and then set up again in October, probably in the school hall so they can have photos taken in their Halloween costumes.
I have zero experience with the pop up portrait tents, but I'm imagining thats the way to go, for speed and space requirements.
Does anyone with experience have a recommendation on a good pop up tent? And would the same one be useable outdoors as well as inside, or does leaky daylight cause messy results if I were to use this in the playground during the day?
Any suggestions gratefully received - Thank you!
Lottie
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I have been given some slides which appear to be 3D and by their content, pre-1950.
Its hard to find any info by searching generally online, but on eBay I came across a viewer which is made the the same company as some of the slides in the box - Stereo-tach, and it looks like it would fit them.
Can anyone tell me how these slides were photographed - I mean, the kind of camera (or attachment?) and how I might go about dating them. Is there any way to digitize these? Or not, since both 'eyes' are on the same 35mm patch. Some are really interesting, such as Havana nightlife.
thanks!
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<p>I had a friend build me a website a few years ago, and in general I'm very happy with the way it works.</p>
<p>www.lottiehope.com</p>
<p>The only thing is, it doesn't resize, and nowadays when people are increasingly working on massive screens, I'd really like it to expand to fill the area when someone clicks full screen. <br>
I'd also like to have 2 sections - 'personal' and 'work' that open out into 4 or 6 galleries of their own, so that I can separate my commercial work from my own. <br>
I think the site was build using some coding, and dreamewaver maybe, and it's uses Slideshow pro/ Director which I love the back-end of, because it holds all the pictures there together and is easy to to add new photos to, or change around which galleries display on the site.<br>
Is anyone famillar with this way of web building, and can you tell me what I need to do to make these changes? <br>
I'm also willing to look at templates elsewhere if you want to suggest something you think might serve me well with these requirements. <br>
Lastly - how easy is it to add a client area from where clients can download the photos I take for them, rather than using wetransfer.com or something, which seems a bit unprofessional? <br>
Thanks very much!<br>
Lottie</p>
<p> </p>
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<p>I've bought a light cube, hoping to use it for some product photography and some conceptual playing with coloured objects against a white/dark background.<br>
I'm having real trouble lighting it so that you can't see the background.<br>
I've been using 2 lights which I was lead to believe would be adequate (you could use more, but I thought that would be enough to blow out the background). I'm also using a shallow depth of field...but just getting a defocussed, creased background with a sharp object in front.<br>
The closer in tone the object is to the background (e.g. a white vase or other pale colour in front of white b/g) the harder it is.<br>
Can anyone suggest what I'm doing wrong?<br>
Thanks</p>
<p> </p>
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<p>Can anyone help me solve this problem: <br>
I have been shooing on my Canon5D in Large (smoothe) and RAW formats simultaneously.<br>
When I have copied everything on to my computer, I see a photo I like in jpeg format, but I want to make a few minor tweaks. So I open up the RAW version in Photoshop....and it's MUCH yellowier and murkier. I try to combat that by sliding the colour temperature to something cooler...but it doesn't make the RAW picture the same colour as the jpeg, it just goes blue. <br>
I thought this was mybe something to do with compression or bit depth, so I made a jpeg from the raw and compared it it the jpeg that came straight from the camera. The one I made from the RAW file is still yellowy and murky.<br>
How can I make my raw pictures look like the jpeg ones (it feels like such a back to front question!) </p>
<p>THANK YOU!</p>
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That's an idea - to use the second as slave. But then can you stop the first one producing a flash as well? Or would I need to point the master flashgun away from the subject?
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I have a 430EX speedlite and a canon 5D camera. I want to connect them at distance, with the flash in my soft
box. The only connecting cable I can find is only about 2ft long, and I really need to have them about 6-8ft
apart. What should I do?
I think i need the connection to be made without using the hotshoe connection on the flash, because the camera is
already slotted into a 'cold shoe' in the softbox bracket.
I need the set up tomorrow and I'm getting desperate - I thought this would be a simple matter of buying a wire,
but I'm totally stuck so thanks in advance for any help you can offer!
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Thanks very much for your answers people. I have a good tripod, remote shuter release and a speedlight, so it sounds like I should do a bit of practice setting things up, with the few extra things you mention and I can put together something without too much trouble.
Cheers!
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Hi,
I take photos for an events company and have just had a call asking if I could do a food-heavy shoot. The event
is at night, indoors, so they were asking if I could make a small lighting set up beside the kitchen, and then as
each course goes out, they will make a perfect version for me to photograph.
I normally get speedy pictures in the kitchen, being clever in improvising how, and they often have a clear
canopy marquee so I get nice daylight. So now I need help. I have owned up to being used to ambient light, but
said I'll investigate how I could do it and I want to pull this off and learn something.
The set up would need to be simple, partly for space reasons. I will need to hire equipment, but it shouldn't bee
too pricey because the food part of the night is only an hour's work. I need some lights set up over a surface so
I can place each canape plate / meal on the surface and get some good shots.
In case it's useful info., I have a Canon 5D and was going to use myCanon 24-70mm, f2.8 lens.
Thanks for your help -
Lottie
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Hi,
I normally work without flash...I have to photograph people at a dinner tomorrow, I'm guessing with Flash since
it's in the evening. I think it will be quite close-range, people a couple of metres away. I've got a Canon
Speedlight. What can I do to make sure I don't make everything bleached out white.
Thanks for any help!
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I've been using Digital Photo Professional to process my RAW files from my Canon
5D. It gives the option to 'transfer to Photoshop' but when I click that, it
doesn't work - photoshop usually opens and then it tells me it's the wrong sort
of file. I have Photoshop CS2.
Can anyone help? I'm sure it has opened them in the past so I feel like I'm
missing out a step in the process.
Many thanks!
Lottie
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Where in London can I find a darkroon that is open evenings and
not too pricey?
Photofusion is extortionate, Drill hall you have to take chemicals,
which I can't commute with, and Zoom in is shut at 6pm.
Kingston upon Thames area is ideal, or Central or South
London. Help!
thanks,
Lottie!
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