leonid2

I use Minolta dimage scan multi pro with modifications to diffuse grains and eliminate banding in shadow areas. 6x6 slides can be optically scanned at 3200 and then interpolated till 4800 and 35mm can be optically scanned at 4800.

I agree that noise reduction should be used with some sharpening. I found very good technique for edge sharpening in here:

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/workflow1.shtml

Section Edge Sharpen and Cleanup.

I created Action for that with several adjustments and it is working just fine.

I do not print images I submit them to libraries and need only very light sharpening. Edge sharpening technique is what I was looking for.

What I also wanted to read about is difference between sharpening of images from digital cameras and scanned films.

Thank you all for replays. Have a good weekend.

Leonid

Could someone recommend some advanced sharpening techniques, which I can

perform upon the 35mm scans?

I scan Velvia and Provia slides at 4800 dpi and then process them in Photoshop.

Best regards

Leonid

It will be difficult to find such scanner. May be flatbed will work the way you want it? But again not the whole strip at a time. I do it simple. I just purchased light table. It is about 30x20 cm and white light lamp inside. Medium format scans are big enough to see them on the table. But I scan positives.

Good luck

Leonid

I have the same problem with Photoshop CS2 and scans made (16bit TIFF files) made by Minolta Dimage Scan Multi Pro. I do not remember did I ever work in CS2 with my scans. In Photoshop 7 it worked like a charm. The way around I found so far is to scan through the TWAN into Photoshop itself, save as PSD, open PSD and save as TIFF. A bit dirty work around, but at least it is working. Reading suggestions to download and install updates did not help. I work on Windows XP machine.

Regards

Leonid

Could you please recommend some web sites or books that could shorten

learning curve of Mamiya RZ67 Pro IID?

I expect to use it for close up, macro, architecture and landscape

photography. Coverage of lens, bellows, other close up accessories and

flashes will be important.

Regards

Leonid

I recently bought my first medium format camera and currently on a

learning curve to understand it. It is Mamiya 6. I would like to

address my several questions to people who used M6 and has an

experience to work with it.

Before this camera I used only digital SLRs. With M6 I shoot on Fuji

Velvia 50. I would like to know how better to use exposure metering

system in this camera. As soon as fully manual mode does not allow of

using fractions of exposure compensation I do not use it at all

(unless you explain me when and how better to use it).

1. As soon as there is no possibility to see image immediately I use

bracketing and for each scene shoot 3 - 5 frames with different

exposure compensation. This is pretty simple and useful, especially

when tripod is used. The only thing I noticed is that after passing

through full point of compensation the shutter speed in viewfinder is

also changing. I hope this is just a feature of the camera and I can

easily compensate exposure from "+2" till "-2". On my Nikon D100, for

example, the number, which represents shutter speed, does not change

if I change exposure compensation and in EXIF I always see very clear

that shutter speed was N and compensation "+" or "-" etc.

2. The second method is AEL; Looks more advanced and faster, because

of having an experience of shooting different scenes you do not need

to do formal bracketing, just point camera to the area with different

illuminations, lock the exposure and shoot main scene.

Here, I would like to ask, is it practically possible (fast,

comfortable etc.) or necessary to use exposure compensation here or

not? Seems I always lack of third hand, or may be I do something wrong.

In this case I found tripod very useful, because it frees hands.

a. I point camera to the area I think will provide necessary

illumination;

b. set up compensation to +2/3 (for example);

c. press shutter release button half-way down and hold it there;

d. point camera to the main subject;

e. press shutter release button completely down, then repeat from

"b." with different exposure compensation;

3. Using hand held exposure meter, is it just more accurate exposure

metering (people are talking that M6's metering system is quite

precise) or something useful, which not available in M6 can be achieved?

4. With M6 I started to use voice recorder for recording some features

of the scene and settings for each frame. I would not say that it is

comfortable; probably after getting use of the camera I will not use

it at all. Does anybody have an experience of using one?

5. Loading films into camera, I was never successful with aligning the

film begging mark and pointer in the camera. Are there any tips to do

it right? Because of this, the frame counter on top of the camera does

not precisely point to current frame number, which makes recording of

information for each frame to the voice recorder tricky.

6. As soon as M6 is rangefinder camera, I would like to ask; when my

main subject in the centre of the viewfinder, will it be in the centre

of the film frame?

7. The close-up adapter. Is it an option, which makes possible macro

photography with M6? How useful it is? Can this adapter be used with

150 mm lens as well?

8. Which filter holder would you recommend to use with M6 lens?

Best regards

Leonid