curritch

My Tokina is a "two touch" lens. But creep it does. More like a sprint.

One additional question.

 

I have a Tokina (Nikon AF) 35-300mm lens that has always suffered Zoom creep. It has a latch that will hold it compressed but with the latch off it creeps quite readily.

 

Anything to do here? Or just suffer with it?

Tito I don't mean to belabor a point here but I've lined the veiwfinder up against some very obvious horizontal and vertical transitions and I it's WYSIWYG. I don't notice ANY differences of concern between the veiwfinder image and the captured image at least on my D50 camera body used with my 28-85mm Nikkor AF lens.

Tito. I've tried that with my 28-85mm lens and as near as I can tell there is no appreciable difference, either horizontally or vertically between the veiwfinder diplay and the catured image. Maybe, as mentioned above, different results here are due to differences in camera bodies. But it's hard to understand how they could differ much.

This has probably been covered elsewhere and, if so, I apologize.

 

I recently purchased a D50 body to use with my existing Nikon AF

lenses. I understand that the field of view of the film lenses when

used with the D50 body is less than it is with the film body. I can

live with that.

 

But I had suspected that the veiwfinder on the D50 would not

accurately reflect what was being captured.

 

But not so. As near as I can tell the image veiwed in the D50

veiwfinder is indeed what is captured.

 

So my question is what are the disadvantages of using film designed

lenses with digital bodies? There must be some or Nikon would not be

selling a line of lenses designed specifally for digital bodies.

 

Again I apologize for what has to be a common question.

Debbie I've had a D50 for a few weeks now and have never observed an anomoly in image titles.

 

At first I was upset that it insisted on restarting everytime I removed the card for downloading but then I discovered that it has a mode where it doesn't restart.

 

It sounds like your particular camera has some sort of problem.

Well guys (or gals) I am really appreciative for the responses.

 

This is my first attempt at soliciting info here and I am impressed.

 

I am not new to digital cameras (the D50 is my fifth) or SLR film cameras but I am new to SLR digital cameras.

 

So it came as a surprise that changing lenses might be an issue.

 

Your comments have clarified the situation.

Appreciate the responses.

 

Lex I don't know what you mean by the D70 lens kit so I assume that I don't have it. I only bought the camera body so maybe that is something that only comes with a bundle.

 

I have a bulb blower that I've used extensively with film. I also have a brush that designed for film and it would seem that it wouldn't hurt the camera sensor.

 

But the manual severely warns against anything that physically touches the sensor so I guess it's out-of-bounds.

 

Hopefully, with care, I won't be faced with having to deal with dust on the sensor.

 

But further reading indicates that Nikon has a dust removal software application that allows one to take a reference photo and apply the results to real photos to remove (?) the effects of dust.

 

Anyone with any comments about that software?

In reading my D50 manual (new owner of D50 camera body) it makes

changing lenses sound like a serious problem relative to contamination

of the sensor surface.

 

What are the recommended precautions when changing lenses and how

serious is this problem. I would hate to think that a clean room

environment is required to prevent dust from settling on the sensor.

According to the D50 manual the SB20 and SB22 have the same functionality with the D50.

 

Non-TTL Auto, Manual and rear curtain sync.

 

What is the advantage of the SB22 over the SB20?