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bob_mann

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Posts posted by bob_mann

  1. <p>The raised ridges on the top and bottom of a Toyo should hold the ground glass back far enough away that nothing will touch the glass and its lever is located on the end so it can be advanced when inserted - nice design and worth the extra expense in my opinion.</p>
  2. <p>You may want to consider leg lock angles - the Feisol has preset angles - a Reis has no presets, you can lock it into any angle you want. A Berlebach has presets. Personally, I don't like preset angle locks and have a Ries that I use for that reason. Also, some Feisol's have two preset angles, some have three - which is something to consider if picking one of their models.</p>
  3. <p>You could also just get the hardware from Ries - I did that and made a set of legs from dowels - I wanted a leg section that was longer than the standard size. As I recall it was not very much for the spike ends and rubber tips - something like $40 for a set of three. The design of the head is what sets Ries apart from other wood tripods, as long as the leg sections move and lock up a slight bend should not be a problem.<br>

    Be aware that the Fiesol legs have preset angle stops - The Fiesol I owned (and sold) had three - none of which I found correct for the camera I was using ( a 5x7 field camera) and my height. It was either top heavy and unstable with the narrow leg spread, too low at the medium setting, and the wide setting was almost at ground level. With the Ries, each leg angle can be set and locked. I also did not like the Fiesol leg locks - I much prefer the Ries knobs to the twist locks on the Fiesol.</p>

  4. <p>Chris - you just beat me by a few minutes on that 180mm lens - good job.<br>

    I am also looking for a back up battery and found a German site where you can get a newly built one - but its like $300. He also is doing AC/DC new power supplies. Howard's link seems to be a dead end as the reference to a Nikon solution leads to a dead link. I am wondering if you couldn't cut open the case on a dead battery and put in a new NiCad pack? But, where would you find a dead battery?</p>

  5. Looks complete from photos-

     

    Filters go in the top section - there is a lift up door panel above the top bellows. Ilford VC filters will fit - just lay them in there.

     

    Lensboard is the square metal piece on the lens - it goes on the bottom and is held by the two metal slots. Insert it by pushing it towards the back into the slot - there are springs which will compress and then push it towards the front and into the front slot. Hard to describe and very easy to do.

     

    These were well built enlargers with simple controls and adjustments - Good luck using it.

  6. ust to update the question with current pricing -

     

    Camera Bellows in the UK will ship a new one for 43 pounds -

     

    Camera Wiz will install one for $265 & CLA shutter - they use the UK bellows.

     

    I decided to send it in to Camera Wiz as they had a number of positive comments on this and other forums, and they use the bellows from Camera Bellows -

  7. I have a Berlebach with the ball head and no center column and find it just as sturdy as any other tripod I have owned - which includes Gitzo, Bogen, and Reis. One thing to think about is the click stops of the leg spread angle. The Berlebach as two set angles and a setting for no stops - you need to be able to set the leg spikes tips into something to use this - I doubt it would be a good idea on pavement. It does have built in loops for attaching a rope and chain to limit spread. The ball head if fine for small adjustments, but if you are into shooting down at things (manhole covers), or up for that matter (tops of buildings) you might find it too limiting. I have a extra head I can use if needed, but that might be too much to add to your carry load. For the money I doubt you can get a better wood tripod and they do seem to hold their value on the resale market if you decide its not what you want.
  8. I have narrowed a choice of camera to either a Contax 645 or a Pentax 645. I

    have rather large hands and have been unable to locate these locally to take a

    "grip test" - Is there a difference in the feel of the grips?

     

    The Pentax seems to have a space for your fingers between the grip and body -

    has anyone found that this is too tight? Where does your thumb rest when using

    these? The contax just looks like it would be a better grip for a large hand.

    Any comments would be appreciated, before I make a decision. I have thought

    about getting both to try out and keeping the best fit, but just can't fit that

    into my budget.

     

    Thanks.

  9. Any ideas of what cameras have off camera flash connections - hot shoe or pc

    connections, some type of anti-shake feature, and a zoom lens? Only ones I have

    been able to find are a couple of Lumix and Minolta models. I am not looking

    for a SLR system - like Nikon or Canon - just a point and shoot type.

     

    Or is there a searchable data base somewhere that would work for these features

    including out of production models?

     

    Thanks

  10. I am looking to get an autofocus MF camera - would anyone using either the

    Pentax 645, Contax 645 or the Mamiya 645 care to offer their opinions - features

    you really like, or dislike about the camera body. This would not be the only

    camera I would be using, just my tired eyes are asking for some help.

     

    I would like to have at least a wide and a normal lens - maybe adding a short

    telephoto in the future - so the lens offerings of any of these would seem to be

    OK for what I am looking for.

     

    Thanks-

  11. I am thinking of upgrading from passive optical slave triggers to a

    pair of radio units. I have Pair Quantum Q flash units - is there any

    reason to not consider going into a pair of Quantum Free X Wire.

    Reliablility, ease of use, false triggers, or other concerns from

    current users would be appreciated before committing cash. Also, there

    is a current $50 rebate on FW9T & FW8R - but not on FW10 - that I

    would factor into the decision.

  12. Yes, Jobo makes a plastic reel with a small tab to allow for two 120 rolls on one reel - works fine. You load one film into the reel past the tap, push the tab down to keep the first roll in place and load the second roll. You could probably adapt something to the reels you are using that would do the same thing. I think Jobo calls the reel a duo-tab, not sure of their product number.
  13. This is definitely worth a look at $2.50 for anyone interested in large format and B/W - considering that there is no digital and only a few ad pages it will be interesting to see if the quality can be maintained by internet sales alone. BTW the download code was not returned as fast as some other sites I have used - took about an hour after the payment was made.
  14. Could anyone give me some ideas on how to clean the inside (the side

    facing the lens) of the Omegaflex viewer's groundglass?? There is a

    sliding fresnel lens that prevents cleaning the glass from the lens

    (front) side of the camera. Can this sliding lens be removed

    without taking the body apart?? The camera is a recent purchase and

    is very clean except for the viewer. It is working fine, so a

    professional clean and lube is not needed (I hope) - viewer is OK,

    but the deposit are somewhat distracting.

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