cricketprints

I agree with Wouter and I also believe you should offer to pay him for edited photos. You

basically paid him enough to drive there. I only read half the replies so I apologize if it's

already been said but I personally would never give my raw images to anyone. I suggest

you offer to pay for edited images. My guess is he was not happy with how they turned

out. Maybe he realized how much work goes into editing a wedding & calculated how

little he is getting paid.

 

I suggest you apologize just as Wouter suggested & offer another $100 for 25 edited

images. If you like them, make him another offer.

John H., Snarky? It's business.

 

Bill, every contract I have ever seen expires after 5 years so I can't see anyone winning but that doesn't mean they can't try come after

you. If you have all the paperwork, maybe you can sell, or give them all to a document scanning company who would scan all the negs &

paperwork then try sell the digital files. That way the physical negs can be trashed.

I personally don't think a book is a good idea because if someone wants a 9/11 rememberance book, the best ones will be

compilations of photos from all over NY. If your photos are truly unique, they may sell in other ways. Are they emotional,

unique, high quality? Are they on 9/11 morning, during the attack, after? The best time to sell may be past.

Make sure it as an RA, not SM. Ideally 10 rolls a day but you can run much less if you

properly monitor the chemicals & spike when necessary.

Your husband is right, the lab did no wrong since you own

the copyright. Even if they just got lucky. Not sure what

lab you used but I know my lab always checked for

copyrights. But yes, it happens a lot now-a-days.

<p>I sell the professional album makers and the pages to labs. Here's a link to a photo of one of the albums that came off our machine at a trade show: <a href="http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=499337320964&set=a.499313505964.285045.250737065964&type=3&theater">http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=499337320964&set=a.499313505964.285045.250737065964&type=3&theater</a><br>

Sorry it's not the best photo but it's all I could find quickly. This albums pages are 0.6mm thick so not flimsy at all. If this is the type of album you are looking for, I'm sure one of my customers could make an album for you. Let me know where you are from and I will find a lab for you to call. <br>

Thanks,<br />Scott<br />Vision ImageWorks </p>

<p>I would be careful not to upset him too much or you will be put on the bottom of the priority list again. Keep bugging him nicely until you get your deliverables, then re-negotiate the price (more than the $500 discount), I think you you shouldn't pay anymore at all. <br>

-or-<br>

Have a lawyer write up a simple letter demanding the deliverables and refusing further payment, give him a date to deliver by (30 days) or you will consider a lawsuit and a 100% refund. Hopefully you get everything and owe nothing. (Be best if you find the contract)<br>

I'm a photographer & I know what it's like to be swamped but 90 days is too long to wait for wedding pix (at least digital gallery), 5 months is too long to wait for deliverables and 1 year is a joke.</p>

 

 

<p>Normally you figure that out before they publish it. You can base your price off (1) the difficulty or skill level needed to get the shot, (2) quality of the image, (3) luck of being in the right place at the right time and (4) rarity, how many others got a usable image from the event. On a scale of 1 to 10, the above shot is about a 1 or 2, scoring 1 point because nobody else probably took the shot and another based on 3 papers running, it must have been of some importance. Any photo scoring a 1-3 is going to get you $0 to $25, usually you should be happy to see your name under the image, in a small local paper you can't expect much more. Now if Michael Jackson is in the ambulance, there may be some money for you. <br>

You can either e-mail the paper and ask for a few bucks or just tell them that in the future you would like to be paid and ask them what they might pay on your average submission. Again you would want to refer to the scale & set your price before you actually send them the pix. </p>

 

 

<p>It looks like the film, not the scanner. I'd say its not just dust, its more like grease spots that are caused by dirty stab. You will need film cleaner & a cotton glove. The lab needs to clean their squeegee rollers & dump their stab. Feel free to give them my contact info if they don't know how to fix it. Every roll they send through will have the problem until they clean it.</p>

<p>Looks like dirty squeegee rollers in the film stab. See if it comes off with film cleaner, otherwise scan it on a better film scanner with Digital Ice software which could clean up some of the spots.</p>

<p>What state are you in? </p>

<p>I don't know any of the photographers but I know some of the bigwigs in Miami. They are a very professional organization and are pretty demanding but if you are up to it, go for it. If I was young with no major responsibilities, I'd do it.</p>

<p>The lowest cost per print would be around $0.04 per 4x6 but you would have to buy a silver halide printer (minilab). New they start at $30K (Doli DL-0810), and a good used one will be around $8K (Agfa d-Lab.1).</p>

<p>make sure you scan what you have first just in case you make it worse. ICE won't do much for you on that size of a stain. try soak the neg in some c-41 stabilizer, maybe 5 minutes, then squeegee it if you have a good squeegee, then dry it & see if it is better. You could always bring it back to the lab & let them try it but scan it first, as it is you could still fix it in PhotoShop.</p>

<p>Try Allen's Camera, I am not sure if they do exactly what you need but I know they do tri-fold printing and a ton of other products/services.<br>

allenscamera.net</p>

<p>I would explain the level of difficulty and charge a fee. I charge $65/hr billed in 15 minute increments. You may have to charge more if you need to send the work out compared to doing it yourself. </p>

<p>I know a "mom & pop's" lab that just purchased an album maker. They do really nice work & they would like to get more since they just got the album maker. They would have to make all the prints or tell you what size to make them. Their album maker is very nice quality and they can either use a leather type cover or a photo cover. I do other business with them so if you want their contact info just ask. They are located in Wisconsin. </p>

<p>If you have a local mom & pops photo lab (not Walgreen's/CVS) they should be happy to take your used fixer & stab for proper silver recovery. </p>

<p>I agree, the Pakon F235 (or F335) is very nice.</p>

<p>I am doing the same project, so far just my negatives then I want to do my family's slides from the 50's-70's and prints dating back 100 years. I own an Agfa d-Lab.1 minilab to do my negatives on and I do use ICE on all of them. It takes me about 3 minutes to do 24 exposures cut in strips of 4 frames. I only do my personal work when I am caught up on customer orders so sometimes I only get a few rolls done a week.<br>

Once your scans are all done, I suggest uploading them to multiple sites and a couple hard drives. I have my own site that I upload to, cricketprints.com, but I also save them on picasa.com. I once used snapfish and shutterfly but they don't let me download my full size image and if I don't buy anything for a year they threaten to delete my account. </p>

<p>Give him a price per image for limited rights to them (post, not print), if he pays you made some money, if not I like Rob's answer above.</p>

<p>can you see the neg numbers on the edge of the film? If not, it is a processing problem. Did the lab know it was B/W film?</p>

<p>I would need to see a high resolution scan to be sure but it seems to be a processing/chemical issue. It could be as simple as a low tank level, most likely bleach or the bleach is weak. </p>

<p>in a high quality lab the prints are processed with chemicals on silver halide paper. In a cheap, low quality lab they are done with ink jet or dye-sub machines.</p>

<p>What brand minilab do they use? Agfa, Fuji, Noritsu, KIS, Doli, Gretag? Do you know the model number? The reason I ask is because if they have an out-dated minilab there is less of a chance to survive.</p>