dimbulbsetting
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Posts posted by dimbulbsetting
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I'd second the vote for the Bogen 3021 with a 3047 head. It's a really stable tripod without
being too heavy. I use a Sinar F2 on it with no problems.
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...and don't forget a completely dark room (closets do well), or a changing bag/tent.
:)
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By the way, you can still fold the f2. You remove the bellows from the front standard.
Move the standards to the extreme ends of the rail. Lower the rear standard with bellows,
then fold forward. Then raise the front standard as high as it will go and fold it over the
back one. Tighten everything up.
Sinars are like Mercedes sedans...large, smooth operating, and heavy as a tank...and I love
mine!
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Another thing to consider is the lenses you'll want to use. In some cases, the
rear lens element size may not allow you to use a particular lens or have much in the way
of movements. Of course, that lovely top end Ebony is probably fine if you have a large
budget (wish I did, but don't, sadly). :-)
IMHO, if you're healthy and can afford to haul an additonal few pounds, I'd go for an
inexpensive monorail, get good lenses, really learn what movements can/cannot do for
your style of shooting, then trade up later. Good luck!
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I'm not sure, but there are some cameras that will fog IR film because of a internal
whatchamagizmo (tres technical, no?). It will show up in the sprocket area of the IR film.
I believe the Canon's are rather notorious for this.
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Ben -
What you decide to use (developers especially) will depend upon the type of film you shoot
with and how you shoot. Kodak's D76 and Agfa's Rodinal are great starting points for
developers if you've never done this before. Water works well for stop baths. Ilford
Rapidfix and Kodak Rapid Fix are both good. You'll need a hypoclear (I use Kodak), and a
Photo-flo or equivalent to properly clean/clear your film (do not use photo flo in a Jobo
tank, you'll gum up the reels).
Other stuff: Plastic bottles to hold your stock chemicals, clips to hold your film on a
drying line (or clothes pins work fine), graduated cylinders to measure and mix the
chemicals, a timer, thermometers for the chemicals, a pair of scissors and a bottle opener
(church key type) if you're doing 35mm. Sleeves for your negatives, and lots of running
water.
I'm sure I've forgotten something, but it's a start.
S
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For a non-techie type, if you use a syringe, they're usually marked in cc's, and a cc=ml.
You can also find non-needled syringes at most hobby/chemistry stores for less than a
buck.
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I believe that Type 55 has 3 stop range (something like that) while a film like Tri-X has a 7
stop range. Also, if you want to keep your negative from the field you can soak a paper
towel and place it within the folds then bring back later to your studio to clear. I've even
heard some people have kept their 55 negs in a glass of Coca Cola...but I wouldn't try it...
:-)
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You can easily develop the 4x5 at home as well. I've used a Jobo drum with manual
rotation using either D76 or Rodinal and have had good results. The cost is not that great
and if you end up liking large format, it will save you in the long run. Good luck!
S
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You might try using a green filter with b&w outdoor portraits. It gives a more "realistic" skin tone. Sounds weird, but it works!
S
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Harrison pup tent. It sets up like an actual camping tent. Enough room to spread out
horizontally to load film, grafmatics, etc. Just enough height to load 4x5 for a
Jobo...barely.
the key is to definitely keep it clean. periodically vacuum or shake out the interior to
remove dust, lint from film box shreds, etc.
Good luck.
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I believe you can refix yoour negatives, by the way...prewetting before refixing for a few
minutes helps the second fix. Then reclear, photoflo, etc.
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You might also try Paris Photo. They're in L.A. on La Cienaga.
(by the way, Oakhurst, CA is outside of Fresno on the way to Yosemite).
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I may sound like a broken record, but if you're not sure which lens to buy, and you're in a
major metropolitan area, it is well worth the few $$ it takes to rent a lens and try it out.
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Darkroom? I hope you mean a room with no lights at all...only lith film can be loaded in a
darkroom with safety lights on. You might want to invest in a changing bag or tent to load
film.
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Yosemite in fall is fantastic. Late October is perfect...color in the trees starts changing. You can take the YARTS (Yosemite Area Rapid Transit) from Fresno into the valley if you don't want to take a car. The shuttle buses get you to most of the trailheads in the valley floor. Short hikes get you to most scenic spots and away from any crowds...its surprising. I usually take a 4x5 monorail with 2 lenses and 2 Grafmatic backs...heavy, but you don't have to take long hikes to get great shots. Have fun!!
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You might also consider using a gel filter (Kodak/Wratten, Lee, Cokin) with a filter holder that will fit both lenses. These filters come in various sizes, but a 4" x 4" will cover even a 90mm SA XL (100mm).
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There is also a small horse trail to Mirror Lake that starts before the bridge (Tenaya Bridge?) and is opposite the road that most people take to Mirror Lake. It's quiet, picturesque and has dogwoods that overhang the river, rocks, etc. Just watch out for the horsey poop.
:-)
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If you live in the LA area, Samy's in Fairfax has a Toyo AII you can rent.
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Being a relative newbie to LF, I've also been looking at 90 mm SA XL and the 110 mm
SS XL. I think I know where I'm headed, but I recommend renting one and shooting a
familiar scene. The information you get from the results could save you a lot of
money. by the way, the information I get from this forum is invaluable. Thanks.
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If this is anything like the "Edward Weston: A Legacy" exhibit at the Huntington
Library in L.A., you won't be disappointed.
Heavy, Bulky, Chunky,... Love It! But How to backpack a Sinar F1
in Large Format
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Sam -
I'm hoping you're "folding" your Sinar down...the F1 and F2 can be compacted by (1)
releasing the bellows from the front standard, (2) moving both the front standard to one
end of the rail and the back one to the other end, (3) fold down the rear standard (the
bellows wil provide a cushion), (4) raise the front standard as high as it can go then fold it
over the rear. All of this requires removing the lensboard/lens first.
Have a good trip.