friedemann_pistorius

October 17, 2015

I agree with Dan and Q.G. Try and judge for yourself if you really need a center filter.

Reading your post, another thought came into my mind: The image circle of the Fuji CMW 105/5.6 is rather small (174mm at f22), so if you're standing close to the subject you want to photograph and if your subject includes vertical lines you want to keep vertical you'll be running out of image circle quite soon, depending on how far your subject is located above the ground.

I too like to photograph in churches. I own a Nikon 90/f8 and found its image circle (236mm at f22) perfect for my needs. However, since it has noticable fall off at the edges of the image circle, my Schneider Centerfilter IIIb (1.5 f-stops) works very well on this lens to achive even illumination from corner to corner ("even" to my eyes...).

December 15, 2013

Ben, the sharpness of the Nikon over the Canon is obvious, but since the Canon shot was made in sunlight and the Nikon shot in shadow, the color difference seems to be rather natural - to me at least.

April 9, 2013

Thank you, Bob and Frank. I'm aware of the screw-in glass filters, but to my knowledge they can't be used like rectangular filters, which can be shifted in the filter holder to place the edge exactly where I want it to be.

Anyone using Singh Ray od Tiffen ND grad filters? What's your experience with color loss?

April 8, 2013

Accepted, Frank :-)

Is anyone out there using ND grad filters which are NOT losing color/density?

This is what I really want to know.

April 8, 2013

Thanks for your responses, that's all very interesting, but to be honest folks the discussion went off topic a bit ...

April 7, 2013

Q.G. and David, thank you for your answers. Yes, I measured every filter when I got them and they were all spot on. I measured them a few weeks ago and the 09 grads lost about 1 stop, the 06 grads lost about 1/2, roughly. Considering the filters as consumables is fine with me, as long as the manufacturer agrees with this procedure. Otherwise, replacing grad filters every 2 years (as I have experienced it so far) at my own expense will be a bit too costly for me... I'm just curious if ND grads from other manufacturers doen't show this loss of color/density.

April 7, 2013

I have two Lee ND Grad filter sets (hard and soft edge, 03/06/09 each). After a year of flawless work they're loosing density, i.e. the 09 filter for example is only 06, or in other words I have to combine 09 and 03 to come close to 09 densitiy. The loss of density is different from filter to filter, but ALL filters show this effect. I store 3 filters in a Lee filter wrap (1 filter per compartment) and each wrap in a Lee pouch, so I think I stored them properly. They're exposed to light only for a few minutes while composing and shooting. Interestingly, I had the same effect with an identical LEE filter set about two years ago (which were replaced by Lee). Now these replacement filters show the same loss of density.

I contacted Lee again and they told me that the filters do lose some color over time, but surely not with filters one or two years old. Although they will re-dye or replace the filters again, I don’t want to repeat this procedure every two years or so.

From your experience, have you experienced a similar behaviour with ND grad filters from other manufacturers (Singh Ray, HiTech, Tiffen, others...)? Any input will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you, Friedemann

PS. I wasn't sure which was the right forum for this question, so I've posted it in two other forums too.

April 7, 2013

I have two Lee ND Grad filter sets (hard and soft edge, 03/06/09 each). After a year of flawless work they're loosing density, i.e. the 09 filter for example is only 06, or in other words I have to combine 09 and 03 to come close to 09 densitiy. The loss of density is different from filter to filter, but ALL filters show this effect. I store 3 filters in a Lee filter wrap (1 filter per compartment) and each wrap in a Lee pouch, so I think I stored them properly. They're exposed to light only for a few minutes while composing and shooting. Interestingly, I had the same effect with an identical LEE filter set about two years ago (which were replaced by Lee). Now these replacement filters show the same loss of density.

I contacted Lee again and they told me that the filters do lose some color over time, but surely not with filters one or two years old. Although they will re-dye or replace the filters again, I don’t want to repeat this procedure every two years or so.

From your experience, have you experienced a similar behaviour with ND grad filters from other manufacturers (Singh Ray, HiTech, Tiffen, others...)? Any input will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you, Friedemann

PS. I wasn't sure which was the right forum for this question, so I've posted it in two other forums too.

January 21, 2013

Just found another link http://www.ebay.de/itm/Biometar-120-2-8-Carl-Zeiss-Jena-lens-for-Pentacon-6-Kiev-60-CLA-works-ZEBRA-/111003510069?pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item19d8532535

Scroll down and look at the mount (for Pentacon Six 6x6 cameras), looks somewhat similar to the mount of your lens.

January 21, 2013

A bayonet mount means it probably isn't for mounting on a lensboard, which in turn means it probably is not a lens meant for any LF camera.

</blockquote>

Maybe Q.G. was on the right track Tim: http://www.ebay.de/itm/Rollei-SL-66-Tessar-4-5-180-10563886-/350570078322?pt=DE_Foto_Camcorder_Objektive&hash=item519f9ae072

However, the bayonet shown there looks different from the bayonet of your lens (3 vs. 4 "protrusions", don't know the right term for this).

January 2, 2013

http://www.silvestricamera.com ---> Adapters ---> Medium format

December 2, 2012

To me, 180 mm would make more sense for two reasons: 1) 180 mm is a very good focal length for portraits, 2) 180 mm would nicely fit into your lens range, with focal lengths evenly spaced by factor 1.4x. In this respect, 180 mm is as close to 127 as 127 to 90 and 90 to 65 (and 250 to 180) - so not too close. Again, my opinion.

November 27, 2012

"My reasoning was that you couldn't use a cable release with the RRS L-bracket."

This is exactly why I'm looking for the Kirk bracket.

Thank you anyway, maybe I'll come back to you, if no Kirk bracket turns up, but would like to wait a bit for more responses.

Friedemann

November 26, 2012

Hi,

I'm looking for a L-Bracket (Arca swiss clamp style) for a Mamiya 7 II. The Kirk bracket seemed to be exactly what I was after, but to my disappointment they're no longer made. I asked Kirk, they said they have no copy left, and all my other searches didn't turn up a single match.

I know RRS and Markins, the RRS universal L-bracket seems to fit, but as I understand it not all camera parts are accessible with the bracked mounted.

Does anyone know another brand who make L-brackets for this specific camera I'm not aware of?

Any help is appreciated.

Thank you,

Friedemann

November 21, 2012

"...we all agree that differences in image quality - assuming one manages to make sharp, well exposed images - have little to do with the camera/lens brand."

To be honest, I do not know who else agrees, and I'm sorry for this obviously wrong assumption.

However, I keep up the rest of my statement. I definitely DO know the differences in quality between different manufacturers, but I said "image quality" not "lens quality", and I said "have little to do" not "have nothing to do".

Whatever has been tested and measured under whatever conditions (I ran over these lens comparison charts years ago), I simply meant, differences in image quality depend much more on the photographer than on differences in lens quality.

I mistakenly thought this was common wisdom.

Ray, Given your requirements, I again suggest a Bronica, maybe 6x6 is right for you. If you manage to get good body and lens samples, you'll get enough camera and lens quality to produce enough image quality for the print sizes you mentioned.

November 20, 2012

I'll try to sum up what has been discussed so far. The OP has narrowed his choices down to Hasselblad vs. Bronica, wants film backs, shoots mainly off/on tripods, and his main issue is cost. Also, we all agree that differences in image quality - assuming one manages to make sharp, well exposed images - have little to do with the camera/lens brand. So after all the thing is easy to answer, at least for me: a Bronica seems to fit his needs best.

The GS-1 offers 6x7 format plus 6x6 film backs, the SQ offers 6x6 format plus 4.5x6 film backs, it is more versatile and has a wider range of lenses/accessories to choose from.

In his original question, I couldn't detect a need for automatics/electronics, but if he wants TTL flash metering, the SQ-Ai has it (don't know if the GS has it too).

Friedemann

July 29, 2012

Tom, I can't find a Mikrotek M2 Pro - do you mean F2 Pro? The F/M/1/2/Pro nomenclature is a bit confusing to me...

July 15, 2012

Tom, there are two typos:

Always looking for the next exposrure with camera and tripod ready to go.

</blockquote>

Living in Aspen Colorado has givin the perfect back drop to make every day a new exciting opportunity to capture that next shot.

</blockquote>

July 1, 2012

I found this:

http://kievaholic.com/lenstests2.html

April 16, 2012

With my first LF camera (Shen Hao 4x5) I used a Manfrotto carbon fiber tripod along with the Manfrotto MG460 magnesium pan and tilt head. The whole setup was everything but rigid.

I removed the rubber pad from the changing plate, which helped a bit, next I tried to gain more rigidity by removing the center columne and installing a plate on which the head was screwed (http://www.stativfreak.de/GALERIES/3BEIN/MF/434CarbonOneUmbau/mf434co_umbau_01_matthiasblank.htm), which helped a lot more, but the magnesium head itself was the main problem - much to "soft", even little winds caused vibrations.

I switched to a Manfrotto ball head, which took quite a time to get used to, but now I had the rigidity I wanted.

Years later I replaced the Manfrotto tripod and ballhead by a big Feisol 3472 tripod (the max height of the Manfrotto was too low) and a Photo Clam PC48NS ball head (plays in the Markins league qualitywise, but cheaper) and couldn't be happier.

As others have already said, a good solid tripod and ballhead combination is the most important accessory in LF photography.

March 22, 2012

It's hard to distinguish between portrait and landscape orientation in a square format camera :-)

Ben, I have a spare waist level finder for the SQ-Ai. Not the smoothest operator, but in very good cosmetic and flawless working condition. If interested e-mail me.

February 2, 2012

Jeff, I wasn't aware that this link was for digital cameras only, sorry.

KEH does good camera repair too at reasonable prices.

February 1, 2012

Ask at the right place.

http://www.fujifilmusa.com/support/ServiceSupportRepairContent.do?dbid=674543

January 27, 2012

I've researched medium format cameras a lot and i still have no idea which one to get.

</blockquote>

Coles, after all the good advices and thoughts given to you, there's only one thing left you can do: buy one. The only basis for deciding wether MF is for you or not, is your experience. No one and nothing will prevent you from what you'll find out.

January 23, 2012

Another vote for the Nikkor-SW 90/f8. One of my sharpest lenses, and the smallest and lightest of the modern 90mm wide angle lenses. Even if it's very good at f8, as with most LF lenses it reaches its peak performance at f16 - f22.

Another lens worth considering is the small Yamasaki Wide-Congo 90/f6.3 in Copal 0 shutter, image circle 175mm. I have one and it delivers perfect results in every respect. However, quality may vary from sample to sample. I don't know if they're still in production, but you can check http://www.cosmonet.org/congo/index_e.html.

I've heard about a Topcor 90/f5.6 lens (Horseman?) but I can't say anything about specs, availability, quality etc.

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Posts posted by friedemann_pistorius