shoppix

<p>Wish photos could influence the school committees! <br>

I don't think you are missing anything. All fluorescents in my local HS gym so I have been using Fluorescent WB. Have used auto as well, but just seemed like Fl did better this year.<br>

In geberal, if the lighting color keeps changing & our cameras can't pick up the little variations & compensate…….., it gets fixed in Post!</p>

<p>Stop doing this for nothing! You are taking jobs and income away from professional photogs. <br>

Here in the US there are photo printing companies that provide envelopes with prints and other photo items listed for purchase...by the parents. Each ten is given a panck to distribute to each player or parent. they bring them back on photo day and pre-pay for the photos they want.generally, if not always, they ten gets a share of the photg's profit. That is negotiated between the photog and team/organization.<br>

An alternative is to print onsite. Of course with this there is an investment in computers and printers and a trailer or van to store and drive the equipment to the playing fields for photo day.</p>

<p>I've been using a D300 and D300S for past few yrs. I would suggest giving KEH.com a try for a used Nikon D3S or a D2x, as mentioned above. You'll get fast focusing bodies and great high ISO performance, esp with the D3S.<br>

And for full size fields the 100 0r 120 -300 Sigmas is the way to go. The 70-200 is just too short for many shots. that's what I have as well a 300 f/4.</p>

<p>At 1/3200 and f5.6 they should be pretty dark - if not black! Sports photogs know that field lighting is terrible, even at the college level. and inside gyms is the same problem<br>

Increase the ISO to it's max - which may be 1600. At 300mm your max aperture will be f5.6. So....reduce the SS to 1/500 and see what you get. Might have to go slower to get closer to a decent exposure. And, 'so' again, you will be shooting on Manual. Once it is dark...it is dark, and light intensity is not going to change. If you have to use slower shutter speed, get a tripod or monopod - use a tripod as a monopod, just extend one of the legs as it will be easier to use and follow the action.<br>

for your white balance - take a picture and see how it looks. If color is 'weird', try another WB setting. It all depends on the type of lights on the fired.</p>

<p>I do as i am sure many others do a well. It's part of the 'variety' of images that a photographer can capture. Vary the use f long and short lenses. <br>

This is one way way to differentiate yourself from mon&pop with a dslr! But don't shoot everything form this low position. Mix it up as you should be doing - up high, down low, somewhere in the middle, landscape & portrait camera positions.</p>

<p>I agree the 24-120 would be too slow at f/4. I have the D300S and at ISO of 3200...not so good noise wise! And indoors I use a Tamron 17-55 f2.8, Nikon 85 1.8 and sometimes i'' haul out the 70-200 2.8. Instead of the 17-55, a 35mm prime would be a great choice for shooting from behind the BBall net/backboard....among other near by things. </p>

 

<p>You should be able to shoot at or close to f2.8 and still have very good dof distance, I imagine. I agree the SS is too slow.<br>

Also, the cropped image exif data shown here indicates that you have cropped out more than 1/2 the pixel data. 1/4 should be the Max.<br>

Looks like an overcast day - increase your ISO too.<br>

Might be good to focus on the contrasting area on the hood as you get more sharp distance beyond the focusing point than in front of it.</p>

<p>Not a new problem and there are hundreds of threads on the web about people 'stealing' images! <br>

At least you had them watermarked. You should put a statement on you Smugmug webpage ...it is unlawful to copy or reproduce my photos in any way, etc.... If you discover some online, email them to please remove them as the was not purchase from (your Photo Biz) and it i against US Copyright Law.<br>

Explain this to the owner of the dance studio also so that understands your policy in case some of the parents ask her something about it. You are a bz just like her and she likely does not give away dance lessons.<br>

Put a line item price for web res images on your pricing page. <br>

Most of the kids just want to upload to facebook type sites and do not care about prints. <br>

the other thing is 'printing on site'. I have photog friend in PA who shoots mainly volleyball and prints on site. You need someone to operate computer, get images onto a couple of monitors for selection, collect $$$ and print. There are usually a few games going on at one time so he has one or two other shooters working too and still makes a profit!<br>

I have suggested to him to produce some large prints, photo books and sports posters kind of things for show & tell at the printing location for add on sales. anything that cannot be produced at the games. I think he only prints 4x6's...maybe 5x7's but not sure. and, his assistant for showing, everything that is on the card! No editing, no deleting etc! And they, the parents, have bought some lousy sports pics!<br>

I personally would hire someone with some editing experience to do a quick run though for deletions, and straightening etc. Just a few very basic editing steps. If they want something better, take their money, try to sell a larger print, edit at home and have it printed.</p>

<p>as Brian said - go to manual. Once it is dark and only light source are field lights set exposure to get as decent an exposure aw possible. <br>

Is the camera/lens able to focus fast enough? If not, you may have to get used to some manual focusing. </p>

<p>Might take a look at Photobacks, if you know how to work with layers etc in photoshop.<br>

http://graphicauthority.com/products/sports-fall-bundle.php</p>

 

<p>I think the ball is actually moving relatively slowly in comparison to other times during a BB game. I try to catch the ball just leaving the finger tips - still moving pretty slowly as well as face of shooter, if any. So...there is not much motion going on with the ball or the face/eyes. And 1/640 is much too fast to get some subject motion blur.<br>

Minimize your DOF to get just players face sharp and the ball out of that DOF distance....use a wider aperture, slower SS and lower ISO probably also to get a good exposure.</p>

<p>I have some old Kodak cameras that were my grandfathers. I'm 64 so these were used in 30's and 40's I imagine. <br>

Would like to sell. what is best way or place to advertise them. couple oare 5x7's and others are the folding roll film style.<br>

Thanks<br>

Steve</p>

<p>I would not suggest hand holding the flash!<br>

cover camera with a clear plastic/poly bag. Use elastic to fasten to near end of lens, etc. Migfht even have it professionally cleaned after your session.<br>

As someone suggested have parents kneel in shallower water, Have someone else hold the flash on shore and you sit where ever to get your composition.</p>

<p>Get a 300mm lens and get out to the side and a bit in front of the shooter. You won't get any powder burn unless maybe using a 17-50mm lens! Just kidding. I doubt this would be a problem bless you are within a foot of the gun!<br>

Use a step ladder to get up higher, lay on the ground..to get lower. I would think it will be pretty hard to get an exploding 'pigeon' but go luck. Remember to get the shooter's reaction after scoring a hit. <br>

Check your background and the moving sunlight as you shoot.</p>

 

<p>I like George's ideas - buy top quality, used lenses. I've bought from KEH.com before and love my older, Nikon 300 f4. The difference in sharpness and color rendition will amaze you as compared to the lenses you have now. <br>

Next will be moving up to higher end camera bodies. They will give you better performance at higher ISO settings, and faster burst rates. The faster burst rates give you 2-3 images closer together than the 3-4 frames per sec. of the Rebel line and comparable Nikons. Higher end bodies and pro lenses will, in most cases, focus faster also. Important for sports photography!<br>

I typically shoot Aperture Priority and keep the ISO high enough to insure fast shutter speeds in the existing light. I use a wide aperture to blur the BG.</p>

<p>You really need prior permission of the organization. And, esp as noted by Mark, with young kids it is even more important. <br>

If you know any of the parents perhaps you should give them a cd with all the kids photos and let them email them to the parents. </p>

<p>HI DAve - Matt has many good pointers, as usual. I tell other photog students & newbies to get up high & get down low! I have a 3 step folding alum ladder that I got at Home Depot or Lowes. Check out what they have. top step should be a wide -more of a platform - than a regular step. When open, make sure that top 'rail' is far enough forward so you can stand there at comfortable position on the step while it gives you some support for balance. Some seemed to be too close to the center of that top platform. Oh, get the 4 step version, instead of the 3 step.<br>

Just noticed Matt's photo below of a shotgun shooter. How about trying some shots of shot putters from similar rear quarter. Try for a bit of face with his expression, and out stretched arm and the ball leaving his hand! Just might take a few shots and repositioning to get this one! Try both landscape & portrait positions. Check your DOF too to mack sure you have enough in-focus distance.<br>

Sounds like a fun shoot the more I think about it! Can you get to any practices before the meet? Good time to try out some things.<br>

God luck. Have fun. & Keep Shootin'!</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I'm a Nikon shooter, but that doesn't matter. The Canon 70-200 f2.8L is the lens to buy. As above, it isn't really long enough to from one end to the other, or even far side of the 'pitch' . but is the lens of choice. the less expensive 70-200 or is it 70-300 f3.5, will not help you in late afternoon end evening games. You the availability of a f2.8 constant aperture. <br>

I would suggest buying from KEH.com vs EBAY. <br>

I've read that pretty much every PRO photog has a 70-200 f2.8. Many portrait shooters use it for the distance compression that it give along nice blurred backgrounds. <br>

shooting night games - the Rebel might no still have a high enough ISO with a 2.8 aperture to get images you want or visualize. solution - check out KEH for a used MkIII used body. <br>

As for shooting: When the light is not changing during a game, i.e. partly cloudy times,use aperture priority (AV) and set ISO to keep your shutter speed up above 1/400 or 1/500 sec.. With HS kids probably should set for high shutter speed. You can even go Manual. Take a shot as above that looks like good exposure - check histogram - and then set you manual settings from that image. Remember, when you get into higher ISO ranges shot for good exposure. That will give you less apparent grain than if you under expose and try to brighten later in PP. Better to be slightly over exposed if anything. <br>

As news photo editors have said - no faces, no ball,...no picture! Get very self critical. dump the lousy images. Anything blurry, backs of player controlling the ball, anything just 'so-so'! Dump them, don't even show them. Only show your better and best images. check out some FLickr soccer groups looking for the best shooters. Many on flickr are not really good. You should be aiming for the Sports Illustrated level...all the time!<br>

Keep shootin'<br>

PS - I hate the fact that there is a desire to have games after dark! Somebody's ego I guess has led to that! Life goes on!</p>

 

<p>I'd go with the 200-400 to give you a wider range of focal lengths to use, and consequently, more keepers from different parts of the field. I assume you have a monopod, right? Should also bring the 70-200 or another 'short' lens to get candids after the game...or another body with that kind of lens. </p>

<p>Are they doing any practice ingat same location before race day. If so, be there. Rent a big lens w/ f2.8 max aperture.. Your 'kit' len(s) won't really put you much above the other folks w/dslr. Use wide apertures to get get selective focus sometime, atleast blur the B/G most of the time. You'll nee a mono pod, or tripod, to hold those big lenses steady as well.<br>

I agree with other comment - to get into a referee boat or safety boat for some of the races. Be there before the races start - like an hour or two. Look online - 'google' for pics of other dragon boat races. Look for ways to get up higher than other 'shooters', get down low, even at water level.<br>

Hope you are selling, or atleast offering to sell prints through an online site to the contestants. Give somme to the organizers but not all! Take pics of thing going with the spectators and vendors.<br>

good luck.</p>

 

<p>Was this indoor or outside swim meet? If indoor, why did you want to use the polarizer? As Frank S. noted, the loss of maybe 3 stops resulted in slower shutter speed than necessary. <br>

show us the exif data.<br>

Another thing is that kit lenses do not , for the most part, focus as quickly as more expensive pro lenses. Even more so in lower light(caused by use of polarizer) situations. </p>

<p>Matt has right suggestion - to figure out what focal length best suits your typical shooting up to this point. When purchasing time comes, consider used pro lenses from reputible dealer - KEH, Adorama etc. and save some buck$!</p>

<p>I use auto WB as the color of the lights tend to change somewhat. <br>

Use high ISO to get a decent exposure. You can always lighten up the dark, underexposed images, but that usually causes more noise/grain to appear than by raising the ISO to get a better exposure in the beginning, then adjusting slightly to brighten it up. <br>

A 35mm is just about perfect for shooting 'under the basket' as in Ron Andrew's photo , above. Esp if you only have maybe 6' from baseline to a wall! Sigma and Nikon both nice 35 1.8 lenses, both new/recent versions, I believe. <br>

With f1.4 lenses you often have quite short dof. Look up a chart that gives you the various inches of DOF at different focusing distances. they usually cost alot more, as mentioned, and some are not fast enough focusing for sports action.<br>

I've gotten by with the Tamron 17-50 f2.8 and the 70-200 2.8(Sigma). Long shots to other end of court are usually useless/nothing! Usually have players backs and faces towards you. <br>

So... 35 and an 85, both f1.8's might be best compromise. And since both are primes, you will get better quality sharpness typical of a prime.</p>

 

<p><img src="../photo/12929957, http://www.photo.net/photo/12929955, http://www.photo.net/photo/12929954" alt="" />End of in-door horse show season photos from the Sandy PointFarm in Portsmouth, RI</p><div></div>

<p>One of the end of seson in-door horse shows, Sandy Point, Portsmouth, RI</p>

<p>Very nice. Like to more closeups showing pulling, muscles and grimmaces on faces.<br>

Should submit some to www.row2k.com.</p>