john_perry1

Can you leave the leader out after you are finished shooting the roll (or retrieve it)? I do this and it makes getting the film started much easier....you can do it in daylight. I leave the leader out, trim the end as discussed above, start the film on the reel (without removing it from the cannister). Turn lights out and roll the film onto the reel. You have a slight chance of scratching the film as it is comes back out of the cannister and thru the felt light trap, but it's never happened to me.

 

I use the Patteson System 4 tanks and reels and the only problems I've had is when they were not dry. I give them a good rinse when done and they've never given me problem. I've tried metal reels and couldn't get the hang of it...even in daylight (they weren't the Hewes reels which everyone says are the best, and expensive). If I were you, I'd sacrifice a roll and load it in daylight on each of the reels in your darkroom so that you could see what's going on.

Here is a copy of a response I made some time back.....

 

I use wine bottles and pump/stopper system made by "vac u vin" (originally designed to extract air from partially empty wine bottles and available at many liquor stores). CAUTION: The stopper has a slit in the top that the air is extracted from. If you insert the stopper in a completely full bottle, the pressure will force any excess liquid STRAIGHT UP THRU THE SLIT. I know because I shot a stream of xtol straight into my face. My last batch of xtol is going on 9 months old and seems good as the day mixed. Just make sure you're careful with full bottles and, obviously, don't use the pump/stopper on a drinking beverage after it's been contaminated with photo chemistry.

 

I'm careful to use the same stopper/bottle for the same solution. I've never seen any residue on the pump after using...but I rinse after use anyway.

If you go here: http://www.mdcnatureshop.com/product.asp?dept_id=7000&pf_id=PB0065 it should take you to a book called "Kansas City Wildlands". I have it, and it does a good job describing several nature areas around KC, the ecosystems, etc. Hope this helps.

For non-critical measuring, look in the paint department of the hardware store for mixing cups. I found one liter plastic cups for 50 cents apiece. They have markings in 100ml increments. You can always get one very accurate beeker for more critical measuring and use a permanent marker to add smaller increments to the mixing cups. I skipped the expensive photo thermometer and picked up a couple of cheap acquarium thermometers.

I stumbled across this link: http://teachnet.edb.utexas.edu/~leica/hc110.html some time ago. Reinforces the importance of testing to find what works best for you. I'm pretty sure the development times are for KODAK films before the most recent change to the new manufacturing facility. He also uses the HC-110 1:63 dilution.

Or you could go this route

http://acratech.net/prod04.htm

Jerry, As far as I know, the stoppers come in one size only....they fit the basic 750ML wine bottle and I have also found a lot of 1.5L bottles that have a similar size opening (last time I went to my favorite Italian restaurant, they gave me a dozen 1.5L dark green empty bottles for free).

The pump and 1 stopper cost about $10 and extra stoppers are about $2 each. John

Just to second what Tim uses, here's copy of a post I made to a similar question awhile back...

 

I use wine bottles and pump/stopper system made by "vac u vin" (originally designed to extract air from partially empty wine bottles and available at many liquor stores). CAUTION: The stopper has a slit in the top that the air is extracted from. If you insert the stopper in a completely full bottle, the pressure will force any excess liquid STRAIGHT UP THRU THE SLIT. I know because I shot a stream of xtol straight into my face. My last batch of xtol is going on 9 months old and seems good as the day mixed. Just make sure you're careful with full bottles and, obviously, don't use the pump/stopper on a drinking beverage after it's been contaminated with photo chemistry.

It might be helpful if folks indicated how recent their problems were. The 1L package problems have been well publicized here, but KODAK has discontinued the 1L packages. I'm not trying to discount people who have experienced problems, but it might help to know if the problem happened 3 years ago versus 3 days ago. I work in a manufacturing environment and as hard as we try, we do have quality/consistency issues on occassion. Maybe KODAK has resolved the problem....maybe not.

I've used 5L xtol packages mixed in tap water that was over a year old with no noticeable loss in developing strength. I am far from the most careful darkroom worker. I have a tendency towards allergies so the non metol developers appeal to me. I don't doubt those who have had problems, however none of the local photographers I have visited with have ever had any problem.

I use wine bottles and pump/stopper system made by "vac u vin" (originally designed to extract air from partially empty wine bottles and available at many liquor stores). CAUTION: The stopper has a slit in the top that the air is extracted from. If you insert the stopper in a completely full bottle, the pressure will force any excess liquid STRAIGHT UP THRU THE SLIT. I know because I shot a stream of xtol straight into my face. My last batch of xtol is going on 9 months old and seems good as the day mixed. Just make sure you're careful with full bottles and, obviously, don't use the pump/stopper on a drinking beverage after it's been contaminated with photo chemistry.

You might also want to check out http://www.nyip.com/tips/topic_black_white_18.php

I think the whole "Back to Black and White" series is excellent (follow the link to the "Techniques Reference Shelf". The info is essentially the same as Suess's book that Philip Greenspun reviewed here on photo.net, only better illustrated (and its free!).

"one thing I am finding out is that I can make some beautiful negatives that are very difficult to print"......I am going thru this right now. My negatives are turning out to be very dense and a challenge to print now that I finally have an enlarger. If you could find a way to have some of your negatives printed, it may help you fine tune exposure/development etc. before getting too far along. I am using the Patterson tanks. For a beginner, they have been very easy to use. If you can leave the 35mm film leader out after rewinding, you can start the film on the reel without having to take it out of the cannister (you increase the chance the film might get scratched as it passes over the felt, but I haven't had any problems so far).

Good luck and have fun.

I use a Beseler Ultra reel. I noticed it was a little harder to pull the film off the reel (compared to the Patterson reel I have). I just disconnect the two parts of the reel now and remove the film.

 

I do find the Beseler easier to get the film started on the reel when loading.

A local photographer I know uses XTOL 1:2 for both Delta 100 and 400. His work is stunning. Almost all his work is medium format.

I have a light magenta stain on my 35mm Tri-X negatives. I don't have this on TriX in 120 or on Verichrome Pan. I use the same procedures: xtol, water stop, fix in Kodak rapid fixer(for at least twice the time to clear), Hustler rapid bath and wash (the last roll I developed I washed for 12 minutes). I use a Paterson tank. It's puzzling why the magenta cast only in the smaller format. Sounds like I shouldn't worrry about it, but it still puzzles me.

There is a good chance it is the Beseler Ultra reel. I bought one based on comments here and find it easier to get the film started on the reel versus the Paterson.

"Mastering Black and White Photography" by Bernard Suess is what I

started with. It is has lots of good general photography stuff like

metering, depth of field theory, filter use,etc. as well as all the

basics about black and white processing. It's also pretty

inexpensive. Highly recommended.

"Mastering Black and White Photography" by Bernard Suess is what I

started with. It is has lots of good general photography stuff like

metering, depth of field theory, filter use,etc. as well as all the

basics about black and white processing. It's also pretty

inexpensive.

You'll be fine with some of these smaller backpacks until you get on one of the small shuttle plains that service outlaying areas. I flew into the Michigan UP last year on a very small plain after connecting in Detroit. There is no way any backpack would have fit on the "shelf" or under one of the seats. It was all I could do to fit the Domke bag I had under the seat. The stewardess was very nice, but made it clear that unless it could go under the seat she would have to put it in the cargo hold. My solution is to get the Pro Trekker I wanted. I will remove the dividers when flying and pack clothes etc in the backpack and place it in a hard bottomed duffle or Pelican with other clothes. I will put as much of my camera, lens, film, etc in the Domke bag and vest and carry on. It helps that I don't have any big glass. I also got full insurance coverage on my gear.

If I had it to do over again, I would have bought the ElanIIe and

24-85 zoom. I eventually bought the 70-200 f4 zoom. It and the 24-85

share the same 67mm filter size and make a great combo for the money.

I believe B&H sell the Elan II and 24-85 zoom used in a kit for

around $500 dollars. For a prime, I would select the 85 1.8. I have

the 50 1.8, and for the money it is a great lens. I have the 28-105,

and its a fine lens, I just wish I had the extra 4mm at the wide end

and the convenienc of same filter sizes.

When transporting, should you set the main (large) tension knob to the minimum, the thumbscrew to minimum tension, or both. Also, I had a good experience with the U.S. Arca cutomer service provider. The inconsistent customer service experiences seem puzzling, but a review of the threads on most of these companies (Kirk, Arca, etc.) indicate that all of them have "dropped the ball" at one time or another.... very disappointing to those who feel they have been let down.

I have been happy with the 28-105, especially when used with tripod.

I got the uv filter but would probably buy a warming filter instead

next time ( say an 81a or b multicoated). Canon also makes a close up

filter that fits the 28-105 (the 2 element 500D is better quality). I

use a 500D with step up ring on a 70-200f4 and have been happy with

the results (you probably won't have lot of working distance if used

on the 28-105). Don't forget to get the lens hood. The qd function

was a must for my wife to keep track of dates on snapshots of the

kids. However, it's very easy to leave it on by mistake and end up

with the date imprint on a picture (my primary interst is

landscape/nature).