gbaida

<p>"how should I start and which steps should be taken"<br>

Please buy any colorimeter to profile your very nice monitor. Even old i1 Display 1.0 for $50 would work great, if the monitor is not wide gamut one. <br>

It is indeed very good idea to get and print wide® gamut targets from internet.<br>

besides, even though it is not answering your calibration question:<br>

Get adjustable height holder for V700, preferably wet mounting one to make better use of your nice glass and big negs/slides.<br>

For your scans from B&W originals (scanned as 48-bit RGB) use just (or mostly) blue or green channel to get higher resolution.<br>

Use any program capable of nondestructive editing (and making virtual copies of 'zero' weight), otherwise you'll get too many variants to save and compare.</p>

<p>It is called 'Perfect Resize' now, if I am not mistaken. Many will tell you that it does not do any better than Photoshop. I tried it once, and by some strange reason it gave me better looking enlarged image than I could produce with photoshop however hard I tried. I used moderate interpolation though, and it does not produce detail which is absent in the original, of course.</p>

<p>DVD is 720x480 non-square pixels be it 4:3 or 16:9 wide screen. Nothing is cropped for 16:9, those 720 pixels just stretched wider to fit the aspect ratio.<br>

DVD standard is low resolution, and the slideshow quality made with this standard will be pretty bad.<br>

You could prepare your slideshow in a video editor in 'high definition' format and render it as mpeg-2 or mpeg-4 file and play it from hard drive or usb device.I would experiment with color space of the pictures and import them into video editor in their maximum resolution the editor allows.<br>

If you absolutely need to use DVD, some video editors (Pinnacle Studio and Sony Vegas) allow to render high definition content into DVD as ACVHD (burned with a regular DVD burner), which can be played on many standalone Blu-ray players or computer DVD-drives.</p>

<p>"Do you know if you can calibrate an LCD tv with a calibration device such as colormunki"?<br>

I have quite satisfactorily calibrated an LG LCD (IPS panel) TV connected to my PC via DVI/HDMI adapter/cable with X-rite i1 Display (version 1) colorimeter. </p>

 

<p>"Would anyone use a LED/LCD TV for such a project? ... then deciding to try direct digital to large monitor/TV ... Comments welcomed comparing this to a calibrated monitor such as an NEC..."<br>

I cannot compare LCD TV with any high end monitor. But a year ago I successfully calibrated an LG 32" 1280x1920 LCD TV from BestBuy with my i1 Display colorimeter (version 1) and the latest update of X-Rite software. I was satisfied with the results comparing with my inexpensive PVA 20" monitor. It could definitely be used for slideshow and probably photo editing. This LG tv as well as most others has IPS panel, so it should not be too bad.<br>

Hope it is gentle enough and helps a little bit :^)</p>

 

 

<p>Hi fellow photonetters,<br>

I got used ipf5000 with with 'not enough ink' message for B, BK, and PGY carts. I do not know how long the printer was in this condition. I ordered these inks from B&H and installed them. The massage for the B and BK disappeared, but 'Not enough ink' message for PGY persists, even though the ink has been installed and reinstalled (and its blue light indicator in the ink compartment indicates the cart is full).<br>

The ink carts look genuine Canon with expiration date in 2012. I inverted them before installing.<br>

I see two possibilities:<br>

1) the printer's PGY ink 'pipe' got clogged/dried/got air bubble because of being too long without ink;<br>

2) the ink cart is defective (chip etc).</p>

<p>I would appreciate any advice/help on what to do. First I need to find out what is bad: the ink cart or the printer.<br>

I am in Chicago. I need somebody with normally working Canon printer of ipf5000 generation who would agree to test my fresh new PGY cart on his/her machine. <br>

I could probably come to Helix main office, they had the ipf5000 before. Maybe they could help me to check the cart?<br>

As far as I understand, bad luck with the ink (PGY), otherwise newer ipfX100 would fit.<br>

If it's the printer fault, I would appreciate advise on how/where to fix it.</p>

 

<p>Here are my two previous answes to this question here on photo.net. I hope it helps.</p>

<blockquote>

<p><br /> 'My Epson V700 is comparable to my 2820 ppi Minolta Dual III film scanner in final image detail after sharpening. 'Comparable' means I cannot decide for sure what gives higher detail (however insane/reasonable sharpening I may apply to both).<br /> <br /> Also, if I downsample original V700 (scanned at 6400 ppi) image to 2400ppi and upsample it to 6400ppi, it has less detail than the original 6400ppi image. Image downsampled to 3200 and back to 6400 seems to be the same as 6400 original. Image downsampled to 2800 and back to 6400 has more detail than that one from 2400 and back to 6400, but similar to that one from downsampled to 3200.<br /> <br /> So my estimate for my Epson V700 is 2800ppi.<br /> <br /> Epson V700 scanner<br /> <br /> My Epson V700 flat-bed scanner delivers scans at least of same resolution/detail as scans from my Minolta Dimage Dual III film scanner, after proper downsampling and sharpening of course. Dual III is a 2820 ppi scanner. I compared 100% crops from the both at 2800/2820ppi. V700 may show some chromatic aberration, which is mostly not visible on color scans. V700 definitely can deliver much more than 4x enlargment. Even ancient Epson 2450 is enough for it'.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Using third party holders/wet mountin on glass gives best results. Resolution for B&W is even higher than those 2800 ppi, if one use 1 color channel instead of 3.</p>

<p>Its scans need sharpening and it' is OK (acceptable), because it reveals info which exist there.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hi Bob,<br>

I am also interested in the subject and try to use older version Pinnacle. You did not specify if you want the show playing back from computer, DVD or HD/Blu-ray player. DVD will limit the the resolution to 720x480 in NTSC world, but you will be able to have nice menu. If playback from hard drive is OK, one can create the show in HD 1920x1080i in Pinnacle with all transitions, pan & zoom, voice-over etc. As far as I know, one can create HD DVD content even on standard DVD with Pinnacle starting from version 10 and play it back on now discontinued HD DVD players. I do hope others will provide more info on the subject.</p>

<h1 ><br /></h1>

<h1 >Zoom H2 recorder has good reviews (~$160).</h1>

<p>http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/588736-REG/Zoom__H2_HANDY_RECORDER.html</p>

"The image quality seems to be completely independent from the position of SSS switch on my camera. Pictures taken with chipped adapter and SSS turned on are in no way better than any other combination of variables."

 

As far as I know, Pentax bodies can use any non-chipped glass with effective in-body image stabilization, say, Russian M42 glass, only because it is possible to "let them know" manually focal length of the lens attached. To work effectively in-body SSS/VR/IS needs data on proper focal length. Apparently, Sony bodies do no allow dialing in the data manually.

I am not sure about negatives, but digital image cannot be compared to color or B&W medium format slide viewed on a light table.

 

As for what I use for viewing my 645 slides, it's Promaster Spectrum 3.5x Magnifying Lupe, Super Achromat Optical Glass Lens. It's definitely coated, but probably not multicoated. I chose it after direct comparison with Mamiya 3.5x lens, which was pretty highly regarded in those times, when these matters were of interest.

I'd like to convince you not about brand choice, even though I do love my Pentaxes 645/645n.

You wrote:

'I really don't care for the 75mm focal length, otherwise I may have considered the FA45mm, FA75mm, and FA150mm'.

 

To my great surprise, I have found feeling/usability of the 75mm in 645 or 80mm in 6x6 to be much different from 50mm in 35mm format. I love my 75 and 80mm lenses, while my P645 55mm lens has not been used for a long time, even though it is great glass. At same time in 35mm my favorite lens is 35mm.

 

So for P645, I began with using 35mm, 55mm, and 150mm lenses. Now I prefer (at least for travel/hiking) 45, 75 and 150. I would also suggest to consider not only FA150, but manual 150mm as well.

My Epson V700 is comparable to my 2820 ppi Minolta Dual III film scanner in final image detail after sharpening. 'Comparable' means I cannot decide for sure what gives higher detail (however insane/reasonable sharpening I may apply to both).

 

Also, if I downsample original V700 image to 2400ppi and upsample it to 6400ppi, it has less detail than the original 6400ppi image. Image downsampled to 3200 and back to 6400 seems to be the same as 6400 original. Image downsampled to 2800 and back to 6400 has more detail than that one from 2400 and back to 6400, but similar to that one from downsampled to 3200.

 

So my estimate for my Epson V700 is 2800ppi.

May be it would be better not to multiply 80 by 8? Is that 0.8ml meant per each color?

Thank you guys! From your answers it looks like 0.5-0.6 inch mylar overhang from each side of film frame/strip should be OK. I also did not know that FreeStyle has it (in 3.5" strips).

I?d like to try wet scanning with my Epson V700. I plan to mount 120 film on wet

mounting station from BetterScanning.com. Which size mylar overlays should be

used? I suppose, it should be bigger than the film strip/frame dimensions, but

how bigger? Does it depend on mounting fluid used? I will probably try Lumina

fluid. Thanks!

Thanks, guys.

Speaking about wet mounting with the Doug's station, do you think it is worth to get 2 glass plates instead of just one? I mean mounting another strip on 2nd glass while the first one has been scanned. I think about just wet mounting, so the glass should be not AN. Also, is it possible to put two strips on one glass plate for the wet sandwich?

 

Rayan, my V700's focus is well above the glass for sure, but I try to engage higher resolution lens by selecting something like "scan with film holder".

Stuart, thanks! It helped a lot!

 

I have question about Anti Newton Ring glass you mentioned. It is not required for wet scanning, isn't it? So what would be easier with respect to dry scanning, the workstation with Anti Newton glass or Doug's adjustable holder for a specific format with the Anti Newton glass insert? Isn't it going to be a pain to dry mount 135mm strip to the AN glass of the wet station?

I would like to get best and more consistent results from my Epson V700. It

seems it means wet mounting with 3rd party kit/parts. My home work led me to

offers from scanscience.com and betterscanning.com. They both seem to avoid

extra glass between the film and sensor.

 

Initially I thought to buy Scancsience MF 'turn key' kit. But may be

Betterscanning variable height mounting station and Scanscience LUMINA fluid is

better option, even though I would have to add other wet mounting parts from

elsewhere?

I would scan 645/6x6 and some damaged 135 frames.

I greatly appreciate your help.

my v700 resolves very similarly to my 2820 ppi Minolta Dimage III (dedicated film scanner), with proper holder hight adjustment, downsampling from 6400 to 2800, and USM. I use it for my 645/6x6 slides/negs. Also, my usual film is clean, so without all these ICE, grain reductions, color correction, and sharpening it takes 3 minutes to scan. The resulting scan at 6400ppi is huge though, so most editing is done after downsampling to 3200.

"Lenses are usually made from multiple pieces of glass, with some pieces cemented together. When the adhesive fails, separation occurs. In some lenses this will appear as cloudiness, generally around the outside of the glass where the adhesive has failed. In modern, multicoated lenses, this will generally appear as a reflective area in an otherwise transparent element. The best way to see this is to move a lens under a fixed light source; the problem will be very apparent at certain angles; be sure to look through the lense from both front and back. You should look for this as you look through the opened lens. The fix for separation is to dissolve the original cement and recement the elements".

 

http://www.prairienet.org/b-wallen/BN_Photo/KodakLensShutterID.htm

"I want one with a lightmeter in the body... I also use more wide angle than tele. Changeable back is not needed... An upgrade to digital is not needed. I almost never use a flash and rarely a tripod."

 

Yohan, it looks like you describe Pentax 645 or Pentax 645n. It's best MF SLR for hand-held shooting. Lightmeters in both versions are very reliable. Pentax wide-angles are among the best, be it old or new versions. No interchangeable backs. Pentacon 6 lenses can be used via adapter with stop-down metering.

 

I am not sure if Pentax is upgrade, though. I have P645 and p645n for years and got Arax 60 (modified Kiev 60) recently and do not regret. They are different beasts. Square is very special format... very different from 645.

 

As for lenses, I got my 180mm Sonnar from Ukraine from a well-known dealer, two different versions of 80mm biometars from Poland from known dealer again. I heard there is very reliable person in Czech Republic ("cupog?"). All these were overseas shippings. You are in Belgium, so it must be easier to get the glass.

 

I would keep Kiev 60 just for 180mm Sonnar, though I like my biometars (as well as my pentax glass).

My Epson V700 flat-bed scanner delivers scans at least of same resolution/detail as scans from my Minolta Dimage Dual III film scanner, after proper downsampling and sharpening of course. Dual III is a 2820 ppi scanner. I compared 100% crops from the both at 2800/2820ppi. V700 may show some chromatic aberration, which is mostly not visible on color scans. V700 definitely can deliver much more than 4x enlargment. Even ancient Epson 2450 is enough for it.

"I estimate 'effective performance' of my copy of V700 at least as 2800 dpi, more likely somewhat more than 2800 dpi".

 

I meant ppi, not dpi in the above post.

"Using the highest optical resolution (6400 ppi) boosts the effective performance to about 2400 ppi..."

 

Based on my down- und upsampling experiments (6400 to test dpi back to 6400) and direct comparison with scans from my Minolta Dual III (2820 dpi film scanner), I estimate 'effective performance' of my copy of V700 at least as 2800 dpi, more likely somewhat more than 2800 dpi.