oyvind_d
-
Posts
27 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by oyvind_d
-
-
<p>I have noticed this also on a 210mm symmar-S, as well as 210mm Nikkor-W, 180mm Fujinon-W, but not 120mm Nikkor-SW.<br>
Corners have different focus from center, and if you do not have them parallell, one or more corner will be different from the others.<br>
You could also have a problem with centering.<br>
And you have the wrong type of lens, try an Apo-Ronar 240mm, and you will be surpriced at the increase in sharpness at this kind of work.<br>
If you must do it with this lens, use the mirrors and stop down to 22 or 27 as minimum.<br>
I have seen suggestion of using a shim to place the front further way out to get the corner at the same focus, not more than 1mm (1 turn or so)<br>
<br />Øyvind:D</p>
-
<p>I found a 8x10 Linhof back on ebay, and was thrilled at making my 4x5 to a big camera. I paid 100-200 for it, and has since added 2 bellows and a longer rail. Ebay migth be the correct place to get rid of it. I am curios if you mean a Lisco-type filmholder, and a single screen, or the hole back down to the shift mechanism.</p>
-
<p>I have both 5x7 and 4x5 filmholder for my 5x7 Graflex, but the filmholders are a bit wider than standard 5x7.</p>
-
Put tape on the shutter, use your SLR camera with an lens with correct aperture, 50mm?. Measure the time at f11 against an even background with non-flimmering, non-changing light upon it. Use your SLR inside the camera at correct focus distance, cover for stray light. Adjust the aperture on your G-Claron untill you have the same shutter speed as with the 50mm, set a mark on the tape. Adjust the aperture so you have half the speed, and continue.
The best is to have a SLR with a needle who measures perfect.
عvind:D
-
I could rephrase the question:
If you have any of the mentioned lenses, could you please check if you have the aperture scale no 10187-A and 10187-B?
On Copal 0, what lens is aperture scale no 10187 for?
The value for a aperture scale is for the guy who do not want to send the lens to SKGrimes for days to get a new scale for $50. So I'm going to put an ad on *bay and offer it for a fair price.
-
The lenses fitting my scale no 10187-A & -B of 5.6-45 and Lens made in Germany
acc to http://www.largeformatphotography.info/lenses/ are:
Super-Angulon 65mm,
Super-Angulon XL 72mm,
Super-Angulon 75mm,
Super-Angulon XL 90mm,
Super-Angulon 90mm,
Xenar 150mm.
I have found my new 150mm/5.6 goes one stop larger than 5.6, but checked the
result before publishing my find. At 5.6 it is 8. I will order a new scale in UK
and want to sell the old, but I do not know for which lens it is.
Lens made in Germany says it is either Zeiss, Docter, Rodenstock or Schneider,
of Rodenstock non fit according to the website and the Doctar WA 50, 75 & 105mm
for Copal 0 have 4.5 as largest aperture. The shutter is black, and probably
from the 80's so that rules out Zeiss.
Thanks!
-
Gressbanen, Oslo, Norway<div>
</div>
-
http://www.zita.se/filmer/med_kameran_som_2/medkameran2.html
What cameras are those? M3 on the big picture, and ur-leica?
-
The Swedish film has now come to Oslo, and I hope to see it soon:
The film: nice poster photos:
http://www.zita.se/filmer/med_kameran_som_2/medkameran2.html
http://us.imdb.com/title/tt0404228/
The director:
http://us.imdb.com/name/nm0208545/
عvind:D
-
Mine is oily too, but it is not a problem until the oil go to the lenses.
I can see the aperture from the back but not so much from the front, and the opening is not perfectly round.
Is yours hard to turn? http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00AF89
عvind:D
-
Use a plastic 120-film camera and fill with water, then dive. Avoid saltwater and chlorine. Reherse in the bathtub. Develop imidiately as the paper may dissolv over time ;-)
عvind:D
-
The Canon lens was put in freshwater, let do dry and rust, totally dismantled, changed rusty parts, relubed and mounted. Was still taking excelent pictures, fell 3 feet to a concretet floor only to have a knick in the sunshade and was sold with history and 14 days full return.
عvind:D
-
Before I sold my 35 Summicron, I took off the bajonet and cleaned
under it. I also saw that cleaning the focusing or change the grease
could be done without any more disassembling.
I'm left with a CL and the 40 S.-C and 90 E.-C lenses wich are too
hard to focus.
Now I try to do the same thing on my 40 and 90 CL-lenses, and when I
remove the bajonet on the 40, I get no further (no more screws), on
the 90, I can see 2 or 3 screws.
Which srews should I start with? (I should say that some years ago I
took apart a saltwater-visited Canon 135/2.5, cleaned it, changed the
rusty blades and sold it later for "full" price)
Øyvind:D
-
R3A: Not as nice to the touch: Please say what you mean, could this be solved by using 3M safety step tape? Or machine a (wooden) handgrip to be screwed on?
CL2: Finder - I inted to use my 20/2.8 Canon FD BL on this, and have found that that I can see a bit more than 24mm by pressing my eyeball almost against the finder glass.
عvind:D
-
"Going up in film format for the wrong excuses!" is what comes to mind.
An Omega D2 4x5" condenser enlarger redesigned to work with a spot or LEDs diffuced through ground glass where the filter holder is and opal-glass instead of condensors would be cheaper than a new outfit, (the LEDs (Green 2,1V 400mcd and blue 4,9V 2500mcd) could make you work without electricity :-)
Also, what lenses do you have that will fit 8x10? That could make a difference.
Consider working with pinhole-photography and contact printing, in 12x20, at normal or larger viewing distances, the difference between a print mad with lens and a pinhole is small (don't take my word for it, I haven't tested it, but I will with a IKEA-box and a 360/9 Apo-Gerogon)
Øyvind:D
-
When missing the sun, buy a UV lightbulb, maybe a 11W energysaver.
Always keep this and the other lenses dry.
Øyvind:D
-
The 305 G-Claron comes in different sizes, mine would fit a Compound #2, and has 62mm filter on front and 58mm filter back. It had been used on a Copal shutter, was dirty inside so I had to clean it, and the price was $140. The newer will fit a Copal #1 and would have 67mm filter diam. Or you can find them already mounted.
I have compared it to a Canon FD 300/4 on 35mm film, and the sharpness and contrast was striking similar in the center.
Øyvind:D
-
Do not develop Polaroid 55 film until your are inside, and the film is 20°C.
Listen to the snow when you walk (gnerk, gnerk, gnerk... ;-)
Standing still is much colder than walking, bring something to stand on, and maybe add more cloth. Do not underestimate other creatures possibillity for freezing (children, dogs, wife etc)
Øyvind:D
-
Yes, any pro copyist could copy that into a 8x10" duplicating slide film. Maybe you need to buy both a film and a holder and get the film processed somewhere else, and then bring it to the copyist for enlargement. This may cost you a lot - more than 3 negatives may cost more than buying an enlarger.
Im planning on doing my own enlargement right now, I have my own 4x5" enlarger, and will use it to make several identical copies, where I have changed the density and spotted the 4x5.
-
Use a camera that can measure light wihtout a lens, and put it where the groundglass is, it will always measure correct.
Or use a 1cm big round ball, and measure the size on the groundglass, it will give you the real enlargement, someone else hase to give you the details.
-
Try a home made 10x12 hobo!
Go to IKEA and get the Mackis-box. Add wood to make it light-tight and paint it black inside. You need a hole for the lens and and maybe "post-it" spray to hold the film steady.
It will fit a 150, 240 or a 300mm.
The Mackis is 500.323.86 and measures 34x27x17cm. You will have to adjust the film plane or position of the film to use the right focus.
I can mail pictures if anyone wan't.
-
It's a nice filter slot for gelatin or polyester filter! You need to have a filterholder for those, maybe something like this:
It consist of to metalpieces bonded together, so there is room for thin filter inside it
Øyvind:D<div>
</div> -
What you wan't is "Polaroid Land Photography"
by Ansel E. Adams and Robert Baker,
Used and new: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/stores/offering/list/-/0821207296/all/ref=dp_bb_a/102-6417644-4628927
$30-70
for more information
Øyvind:D
-
Will you use it for 8x10"? Then a Fuji W 210/5.6, G-Claron 210/9, or a APO-Symmar 210/5.6 be good use, or maybe a Fujinon-A 240/9.
The ones with small sizes is the 1:9s
Øyvind:D
Lenses that offer "better shadow detail"
in Large Format
Posted
<p>Jens: Here is comparisation from Tiffen http://www.tiffen.com/hi-res/UltraContrast3_Effects.jpg<br>
more here: http://www.tiffen.com/literature/Contrast_FactSheet_Lo.pdf</p>