denisgermain
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Posts posted by denisgermain
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<p>70-200mm 2.8 is the minimum for this.... 100mm is way to short<br />300mm or 400mm prime should be on your list.<br /><br />5PM is hardly ever "low light" - try a highschool basketball game or hockey<br /><br /><br /></p>
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<p>"No expectations."<br /><br />Really?</p>
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<p>Sounds like the 5D markIII is what you really need!<br />you could buy a couple of them for the price of one 1DX</p>
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<p>What is the main issue with your photos and how do you think a new camera would help?<br />- Most beginners don't have an answer...<br /><br />Learn to control your camera - Practice with a fast prime lens.<br /><br />When you know what is blocking you.... upgrade that component (it will most likely be GLASS!)<br /><br />80% of a great photo is directly driven by what is inches behind the camera...<br />20% by the tool itself!</p>
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<p>:D<br /><br />Been there done that, bought the tshirt....<br /><br />The biggest mistake is to give them away in the first place... They now see this as being "normal".<br />Posting them on facebook...? cool they can copy them - even with a watermark on it... they will crop around it - You will have a heartattack when a mom tells you what I've heard dozens of times.... "how can I remove this from the photo - it looks ugly when I print it".<br /><br />People would rather give their money to a stranger, rather than giving you money.... why should they pay you? It doesn't cost anything to take photos now a day.... and you are at the game anyway for your son.... there is no salary involved, unlike that company that takes photos during the tournament - they need staff, expensive cameras, computers and big fancy printers to do all of this on-site....<br /><br /><br />(excuse the sarcasm)</p>
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<p>1/200 is the reason.... you need at least double that to freeze any type of fast action...</p>
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<p>The firmware for the EOS M was updated, making the focus much faster.... works fine now (like a baby rebel)!<br /><br />There is rumours of a new one being announced shortly, but there is great deals on the original one now.</p>
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<p>Crop them out.... k.i.s.s.</p>
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<p>you just CAN'T do this!<br />Unless you are going to light them high from above (which will not light up their faces like you want)<br /><br />- the last thing you wanna do is to interfeer with the play...<br /><br /></p>
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<p>Another 600 or the STE3RT....</p>
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<p>I've got 4 600EX and a couple of STE3.... and it is the best system I've used.<br />One of the coolest feature is the ability to create to completely different setups on two different cameras.... using the same flashes</p>
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<p>Tokina offers great alternatives - Cheaper but not necessarly "worst quality"</p>
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<p>One thing to consider before going FF.... are your lenses good enough for Full Frame?</p>
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<p>Haven't tried the SL1<br>
but the EOS M noise ok I don't see why the SL1 would be any worst than a 60D or Txi</p>
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<p>17-55 2.8 is too expensive (considering that it will become useless on a FullFrame Body)<br />The new sigma 1.8 sounds VERY promising (and priced right)<br /><br /></p>
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<p>this is turning into a ridicule discussion about things that don't matter.... the software, the camera or the brand.....<br />Go back to the basics:<br />- Learn to compose better <br />- Learn to see the light<br />- Shoot it right, directly IN THE CAMERA (why not use jpg)<br>
If it looks like crap comming out of the camera, spending days in PP will not produce a masterpiece!</p>
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<p>From what I see in this example: it is not about workflow, or RAW or TIFF or sharpening.... or even the impact of Film vs Digital.<br />Light, shadows, contrast and depth of field... focus on one subject, zoom in... </p>
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<p>Following the "old rule"<br /> 1. yes.... as your 200mm becomes a 280mm<br /> 2. NO, NO, NO and NO!<br /><br />A 200mm D.O.E.S. N.O.T. become a 320mm on a cropped sensor.<br />it is simply a 200mm from which you are only using a portion of the "potential" image. Therefor if you follow that rule a non IS 200mm should be used at 1/200th on a FF or a Cropped sensor!<br /><br />If the answer was yes, then should you shoot at 1/400s if you plan to cropped the final photo in half with that same 200mm lens? no<br /><br /><br /></p>
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<p>... it might even be better with a 200 or 300mm.<br>
(wide angles won't create the bokeh you want unless you are really really close to your subject)</p>
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<p>it is all about distance and aperture!<br /><br />a 135 or a 85mm will most likely get you the look you want, if you are ready to take a few steps back.</p>
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<p>I cannot think of ANY reason why it wouldn't work...<br />Plus most firmware updates can simply be copied onto your memory card (at least in the Canon world...)</p>
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<p>? no cloud storage service can offer the TerabyteS I would need to do this!</p>
Tutorials or courses for Canon 5D 4
in Canon EOS Mount
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