m._howard_edwards

Michael - many thanks. I searched but did not turn up those links. It took all of three minutes and the replacement battery was 2 for 6.30 USD.

 

My expert told me he had to remove the top cover and that is why it cost 45 USD (plus 7 USD for the battery).

I have just received this camera that seems to work flawlessly, except that the

internal lithium battery is dead. The repair guy wants 45 USD to replace it, and

that is close to the value of the unit. Can I do it myself? Do I need to?

In line with Chuk Tang's post, I suggest a Nikon N50 with a 35-80mm, f4-5.6 kit zoom. It is dirt cheap, and very versatile. It is auto everything, but it is switchable to manual.

 

A minus is the hokey, early version user interface, but it is invisible once it is learned, and the learning curve is not very steep. The lens is slow, but it has a built-in flash. It is lightweight and makes an excellent walking-around camera, even for taxing lighting situations. I repeat: it is dirt cheap.

Alex, do not overlook the Dynatran units from Amvona.com. I have purchased a couple of their tripods (carbon fiber and aluminum). They are Bogen knock-offs and visually pretty attractive. By all means buy from their eBay site rather than internet site. Their internet site sells at pretty much list price, and I do not think their stuff is THAT good. Best of luck.

I was checking the appropriate exposure to use on my F3HP. I measured against a

blank wall, set the exposure to "A" and read 1/250, f5.6. On manual it read

1/250, f4.5. Hmmm... To shorten the story I cross-checked and found the following:

 

ISO 200:

 

Leica M6ttl: 1/250, f4.0

 

Nikon F2AS: 1/250, f4.5

 

Pentax Spotmeter: 1/250, f4.0

 

Nikon F3HP (Man.):1/250, f4.5

 

Nikon F3HP (Auto):1/250, f5.6

 

Exposure latitude of film is not adjustable. Is this much variation O.K.?

 

Who can you trust?

 

Are "modern" meters more accurate? What is "accurate" anyway?

Gene -

No matter what else is going on I must stop long enough to view your posts, and often only that. Keep up the good work.

 

A Fan

Further south from there is Bishop,Calif., and Galen Rowell's Mountain Light Gallery. Great shots of the Eastern Sierras.

Can anyone recommend a satisfactory replacement hood for the tulip shaped hood

for the Nikkor 80-200mm, f2.8D, AFS ED?

 

Mine is split, and the original apparently is discontinued. None of the local

pro shops have them, and the very occasional postings on eBay go for twice the

old list price - even used.

I thought the Public Broadcasting Service was pretty selective in using "experts." Maybe not. Boy, I am really embarrassed for her!

I have used for a couple of years an old mop handle with a 1/4" 20 bolt epoxied in the end -- pretty cheap, but no beauty contest winner. I just added a no-name small ballhead which makes it more versatile. It is lightweight, makes a good hiking staff, and cut to the right length for my height. It supports my 300mm f2.8 lens comfortably.

Another question:

 

Who is the third party? I assume the first party is the camera body maker, and the second party is everyone else that makes a lens.

Leo-

Noone else seemed to appreciate your photo, so I will let you know that it was a superior illustration of the problem. It keeps the rest of us on our toes ( or off the air).

My lens often hits a snag when the lens scale shows about 20 ft. when focusing

either automaticlly or manually from infinity to minimum distance. This is a SN

1012XXX (1981?) vintage lens.

 

It is smooth when going the other way from minimum distance to infinity.

 

Is this a glitch that will self-heal, or will I need to take it in? I am

reluctant to use this lens for a repair learning exercise. But if it is a quick

fix, I am game.

 

If you have experienced this I would appreciate any suggestions you may have.

 

Howard

Beau, if you mean the one in the park near Church Street in the Western Addition, it is still there and going strong. And populated with similar characters.

...and K&S is a comfortable commuter train ride from San Francisco.

 

Howard

Travis -

 

Whew, what a relief.

 

But you still are going to be rushed. If only a day in San Francisco, stay off the Bay. Poor shooting and time consuming. Great shots on land, and go to Golden Gate Park (Dutch windmills, Ocean Beach and the new museum building). Be prepared to freeze in the city - seriously - but not in the rest of the state. Shorts are not recommended, and bring or buy a jacket.

 

Leaving San Francisco, go North across the Golden Gate Bridge on Highwy 101, pass Sausalito (sorry) exit onto Highway 1. You will pass Muir Woods (stop if you have the time and like serenity). When you reach the coast you will see as much California coast to photograph that you will want.

 

I would then leave Highway 1 at Olema on Sir Francis Drake Blvd. That will take you back to Highway 101 and head North. Your map will get you through Sonoma to Napa. at the North end of Napa Valley is the Sterling Vinyard. A tram will take you to the top of the bluff where the winery is situated. It overlooks the whole Napa Valley and plenty of shots available.

 

The rest is up to you. Enjoy the honeymoon. You are going to be so tired - but happy.

Chuck -

 

Before you buy anything, check the Amvona store at eBay, and, no, I am not a shill. I last week received 5 items and was pleasantly surprised by the value their stuff represents.

 

They have a CF-magnesium monopod with a magnesium ball head that is 25.5" closed, 78.5", and it weighs 2.55 lbs. It holds 13.2 lbs. You need to post bids, but you may get one very inexpensively depending on the competition at the time. It might work for you.

I picked up a cross arm that mounts up to 4 cameras and replaces the tripod head. It has proven to be very flexible by allowing the head to be mounted at any of the four positions. It comes from Amvona who has an eBay store but only auctions which means the price will vary, but it is still inexpensive and suitable for pretty demanding use.

You can do all of that if you are going through life at a dog trot. Yosemite is over 3hours by car and the traffic at the park is horrific. There will be no place to stay once you get there. Big Sur is also a far piece from The City.

 

In a week (and taking time to honeymoon, too!)San Francisco, Marin County coast, and the wine country will be about all you can stuff into a week of shooting (and taking time to honeymoon, too!).

 

San Francisco will also be pretty conjested this time of year and getting from place to place (there are many)will be time-consuming.

 

Whatever you plan you will enjoy the visit.

If you have a little curiosity, you are going to find that to have purchased a camera with a bunch of whiz bang features that you will be unable to use with your current lenses will frustrate you.

 

You will find that you have just a more expensive Nikkormat. Buy an AIS lens that you favor (it will be pretty cheap)longer or shorter than your current collection, and you will see.

 

I have both. I never use the Nikkormat, but I cannot bear to dispose of it. It rides around in the trunk of the car with its complement of lenses "just in case."

Henry, try this post: /www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00Fi4A the KM P&S should be available even more cheaply by now.

I echo Dan Spahn. Upstrap has a three-strap deal you might want to check at http://www.upstrap-pro.com/.

 

Howard

I have over a dozen cameras mostly old. I have one 3.2 mp digital P&S.

Looking for birds with my new acquisition, an AFS Nikkor 80-200 D

Zoom. I know from experience that I will get no bird portraits with

it, but on a nice day I am just trying it out.

 

A grizzled old birder is telling me about the camera he has wanted all

his life. He admired my kit and remarked on its weight - heavy. He

offered his prize from Best Buy, refurbished at $150, "Try this he

says. It has a 48X zoom." I smiled knowing what I paid for my kit and

took his Minolta Z6 (6 MP, 12X optical, 4X digital zoom). Viewing was

kind of jiggley, but the bird filled the frame - the same bird that

left enough room in my viewfinder for plenty of "environment". And the

resulting shot was really good as I viewed it on the LCD preview

screen. He said that he does not always have that kind of luck. He

has to toss about half of his shots or so.

 

I guess my question is: Is this new stuff really that great? If it is,

why do we all not have it? If it is not, why do all of "those folks"

swallow the hype? Either the pictures are good are they are not.

I rarely shoot 1/1000 sec. because the required larger apertures give

too shallow a depth of field. I shoot mostly nature shots, and unless

it is windy I manage lower speeds. I cannot concieve what combinations

of ISO, aperture and light levels that allow/require a 1/8000 sec.

shutter speed and for what activity this would be necessary.

Yet,camera designers provided this speed for some reason. Was it just

because they could? I am trying to think outside of my box,here. I am

failing.

Rajiv -

 

I had the same problem. I sent it back to the seller for a CLA. The problem persisted. Apparently it is a light leak around the lens. A different Helios cured the problem.