alex_b.

I am deciding between FA-120 macro and FA-150/2.8, being biased towards the latter. Could someone explain what magnification I will get with the auto extension tubes (say, all three) mounted behind the 150mm lens and what exposure correction would be needed?

I agree, the 645(n)'s meter is one of the most accurate meters I have ever used, no problem to use it in multizone mode. The tendency to overexpose is a significance of modern lower priced SLR's, because amateurs mostly use print film which is still usable overexposed. I doubt Pentax would build in such an exposure curve on the 645. As I said, I trust the built-in meter 98%!!!

I have two LF lenses, the Schneider Super Angulon 90/8 and Nikon 300/8. The 90/8 is SO DARK, it is very difficult to focus in low light and applying Scheimpflug, even with the Fresnel on. I suggest getting a more wide open 90mm (say 4.5) or the - from what I've heard- FABULOUS 110XL. However, among the 90/8's the widest circle belongs to Nikon - if you decide on a f/8, I would suggest the latter.

I bought the 645n to give me that necessary edge of AF in the medium format (I have no 35mm camera) and to supplement my Pentax 67 system. In 6 months I've put 500 films through the 645n and 4 through 67. Hmmm. It seems the little beast has replaced the ol' tank almost entirely. I couldn't believe seeing myself reaching for the 645 again and again. I bought the 45-85 and the 80-160 (pairing them with my fast 67 lenses) and still can't figure out how they made the the zooms so SHARP!!!! The 80-160 is the sharpest lens I've used in MF, just incredible (and I used quite a lot of them). It is somewhere near the Mamiya RZ 180 lens in terms of sharpness and contrast . The MF primes (I also have the 55/2.8) are just as sharp, even better than the 67 lenses!

 

I am not sure it's the perfect camera for all fields of work, but it surely is the perfectly logic and usable camera for fashion. Mamiya AF has had many glitches because of the newness of the model, I know that from a Mamiya dealer here. He advised me (when deciding what AF medium format to buy) to buy the AF Mamiya a bit later on, when the flaws are removed. The thing with Mamiya and Contax is, they had to be designed form zero and are thus so expensive, but pentax had the existing body (the previous 645) and the AF module from MZ-5 and has just put them together. The costs of coffee for engineers working in R&D departments is thus minimal :-)

 

Get the Pentax!

I would like to know how well the Pentax 645 or the 645n is protected

against the notorious asian humidity. I am going on a month long trip

to Laos in December and am still deciding which piece of my equipment

to take. The demand for pictures is quite high and they have to be on

the sellable side. My bread-earning camera since March has been the

645n, a truly remarkable piece of equipment and it is among the

favourites for taking with me on the trip. However, upon returning

home, I plan to use it normally to earn my living. Thus I would like

to know:

 

1. From your knowledge/experience - how well is the 645/645n protected

against the humidity (And the MF lenses - will I acquire fungus?)?

 

2. How obtrusive/potentially stealable is a Pentax 645 in that part of

Asia?

 

3. Most welcome are all hints and advice regarding photography in Laos

and Angkor (Cambodia).

 

Thank you for your comments.

David Bailey (Rolleiflex&Hasselblad), Jeanloup Sieff (the same), Terence Donovan (Pentax 67), Marino Parisotto Vay (Pentax 67), Olivireo Toscani *how come no one rememberd him-he is as exceptional as can be* (Mamiya RZ) etc. etc.

You can mount those "S"-shaped Mamiya Press rollfilm backs on the 600SE with a special adapter. I have been looking at one (in Munich, in a second hand store display window) for quite a long time (sells for $200 used WITH 6x7 back), but haven't decided yet. I use the 600SE for polaroid proofs only, so this is not an obligatory item for me.

The hyperfocal markings in medium format are there just for orientation. Usually they are one or two f/stops off, which means that you must look for the hyperfocal distance for f/11 when working with, say, f/22. Otherwise it is logical to trust the finder, it is always so that what you see is what you get. And get a good loupe, that's crucial. Look for Schneider, Rodenstock or NPC. I have a 10x russian Horizon loupe (heavy as a tank, but with corrections and multicoated glas) for sharpness checking and a Rodenstock 4x for "general impression". Without a loupe you cannot evaluate the slides properly.

I have had great results with the AF 500 Pentax flash for fill-in (on manual setting). The camera and this flash work together almost perfectly - even with 67 lenses (I use the 165/2.8 via the adapter). Otherwise the ND filters or slower film are your only solutions if you want to keep the f/stop at 5.6 or 8.

The cord (the one that couples the f/stop setting with the TTL finder)

broke on one of my 67 bodies yesterday. I managed to get it out (about

two inches), but one part - the one that holds the attached

coupling pin in position, i.e. the part of the cord on the left side

if viewed from photographer's side - is still holding to the pin,

keeping it on the left. When I try to move the pin, it jumps back as

it would be on a spring.

 

I don't use the TTL prism, I don't even own one, so this is no issue

for me. But just to be sure - the cord has no other function than that

of TTL coupling, right?

I bought the 67II's WLF new because I couldn't find a used one at the

time I needed it. After hearing about some uncompatibility between

the prisms I also was a bit skeptical, but the seller at a pro

store in Munich assured me it fits just perfectly. It really does and

being brand new you get the smooth opening, unscratched loupe and

years of folding up and down. The only thing that is not

interchangeable between 67 and 67II is the AE prism. Otherwise all

finder accessories fit each body from each generation - the normal

prism, WLF and loupe finder. Isn't that great?

I am pretty sure the Winder I is *NOT* compatible with the RZII, as is the case with RZ's PD Prism which also isnt't compatible with the RZII. The backs are the same, the inserts not. Funny, no?

Yes, shutter vibration. But when you have a job to finish and do not

have the ability to dampen the vibration (in fashion you mostly just

don't have time) all that matters to art directors are end results. No

excuses like "My lenses ARE pin sharp, it's just the camera..."

I however still love the 67, although it has let me down several times

now in terms of sharpness reduction via shutter shake. No problems

otherwise, thank god, but I was forced to buy the 645n in addition to

the 67 system and love it just as much. Been using the 67 lenses on

it, yummy, and can confirm they really ARE pin sharp.

 

<p>

 

But my point is - what good is a sharp lens if you have difficulties

using it, i.e. achieving it's optimum performance because the body

literally jumps when the shutter trips?

What I would like to know is why the 67-to-645 adapter manual doesn't

recommend the use of 67 Teleconverters and both 67 leaf shutter lenses

(90 and 165) with the 645 body. The 90's LS works nicely (I tried it),

and even a 200mm P67 lens was used with a TC (as posted on this forum

by Bob) fuss-free. I bet everything would go nice with the 67

extention tubes, too.

Is it because the stress on the diaphragm release mechanism is too big

that Pentax suggests not using these combinations or maybe something

else???

Does anybody have a price yet? I am REALLY interested...

FYI:

 

Upon receiving the slides back from the lab I must say I was jumping to the ceiling. I tested the flash in the following manner: with 75/2.8 lens on Full auto, Tv (and manual fill-in) /with auto zoom settings on the flash AND (this will be interesting to some)- per 67 adapter - the 165/2.8 and 55/3.5 Pentax 67 lenses, wide open, stopped down and filled-in manually /with manual zoom settings @ 85mm and 28mm respectively. As I said earlier, NOT A SINGLE FRAME (16 different scenes with and without a person, even including ceiling bounce) was badly exposed. I haven't had such results even with my state-of-the art Canon...this is really impressive.

 

I can only recommend the AF 500 Pentax flash to all 645n users!!!

Gee, thanks, Ray. For the e-mail address just click on my name under the posting...hope to hear from you soon.

Thank you, Ray.

 

A response to Q1: This (1/45) happened when the sync was set on the rear curtain. When set on the first curtain, it shows 1/60. Funny, no?

 

AD2: Unfortunatelly I haven't got the manual with the flash ( which was a second hand bargain BTW). Are there any functions of the flash which are set by button combinations or longer depressions of a button? I know only of those that are written on the buttons.

 

Thanks again!

I was wondering about the 645n-500FTZ compatibility. There were some

things that bothered me here. Please tell me if this is common/normal:

 

1.When putting the flash on the body and choosing full auto(A),

aperture-priority or shutter priority mode the sync time is supposed

to switch to maximum sync time, i.e. 1/60 of a second. However, I had

a 1/45 readout displayed all the time in the Pentax viewfinder, even

outdoors.

 

2.The flash automatically displays 35mm focal length on its display

when using the SMC FA 75/2.8. I suppose this is OK because 75mm is

more a 46mm and thus doesn't activate the 50mm setting on the flash,

but one before, i.e. 35mm. Am i right?

 

3.The minimal flash range with the 35mm setting on the flash is always

1,2 meters-to-something. This is quite far away. Is this OK?

 

4.The recycle times are perversly long even with fresh batteries when

the f/stop is smaller than f/2.8. About 7-8 seconds @ 3 meters with

f/8. Is this normal?

 

Thanks in advance.

In my field of use the really ideal backpack is the Lowepro Mini

Trekker. It fits 2 P67 bodies with grips, up to 5 lenses, film, my

Sekonic and that stuff you cannot do without (lens cloth, wire

release, caps etc. etc.) It si PERFECT for a small P67 outfit. Search

the threads and you will find many people agree on the issue. However,

there's an universe of backpacks out there and maybe you will be more

comfortable with tenba, Tamrac or something similar. But give the Mini

Trekker a test in store (frustrate the seller by putting all your

equipment in it :-)) and try wearing it. If it feels good, buy it.

I recently bought the superb Cambo SCX. At $250 it was a real bargain. Now I would like to hear comments from all users and ex-users of this really rigid and very well built monorail. What year was it built? (Ser.# 85046). Any problems? How about interchangeability with the current Calumet/Cambo line (i.e. for adaptation to 8x10)? All information welcome.

Brian, I was looking at some photos by David Burnett of Contact Press. He did some wonderful '20s, '30s and '40s style olympic photographs on BW film using a Mamiya 645 and especially Mamiya 7. His work appeared in the special Olympic issue of the Time magazine one month before the 1996 games. He also sold some stuff to Mamiya for the ads. He said he found it "psychologically nice and refreshing to have to WAIT for the picture" - without motordrive, autofocus etc. His work turned out really beautiful. What does this teach us? It's not (really) the equipment that does it but the approach!

Yeah. The focal lengths are measured in milimeters; on the 6x7 a 90mm

is "normal", but when put on a 24x36 it becomes a telephoto due to 4,5

times smaller format. But the good part is, you know exactly the focal

length - a 90mm is a 90mm in 35mm format.

Let me put this another way:

 

<p>

 

55mm lens stays a 55mm lens all the time.

OK so far.

A 55mm lens on a P67 body covers an angle similar to 28mm lens on 35mm

body. A 55mm lens is a wide angle lens on a 6x7 body.

But if you put the 55mm lens on a 35mm body you get...a 55mm lens!!!

It's just a little more than a normal focal length. So there.

I've gone through that!

 

My vote is for PENTAX!

 

I now own 3 bodies and 6 lenses and am perfectly satisfied.

 

Go here and see the very similar discussion I had a while ago:

 

http://www.photo.net//bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=000Ves&topic_id=Medium%20Format%20Digest&topic=