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alex_b.

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Posts posted by alex_b.

  1. It doesn't require the use of LF lenses but normal enlarger lenses that cover a wide enough area - though this is ONLY if you have a focal plane shutter camera. I have Zoerk's Multi-focus system and it's great. For Pentax 67 it requires a 135mm lens and for 645 a 105mm. You have the adapter to fit the body, the tilting joint and a focusing helicoid. All of this is detachable so you can put away the tilting joint and use the system as an actual lens with normal focusing (stop-down metering & shooting is required anyway) but no tilts. The tilts go quite far (I think to around 45 degrees) but are only usable at 20 degrees maximum w/o vignetting and blackout. It's a great thing to own if you have the use for it and when I visit him in Munich Herr Zoerkendoerfer always proudly shows me some new photographs he got from photographers around the world that were made with his multi-focus system. The price for mine was DM 1.500,- which is roughly US$ 650,- INCLUDING the Rodenstock Rodagon 135mm/5.6. The thing is better with APO Rodagon 105/4 but costs $430,- more (Prices based on 2000 figures, but I don't think he has changed them).

     

    Good news for all focal plane MF'ers who are also 35mm users - all they need to buy is just a cheap adapter to put on their Nikons or whatever they own and they can use the Multi-focus system there, too - and cheaply.

     

    I am not connected in any way with Zoerk, the man just fascinates me with his determination that everything is a matter of improvisation and that even the toughest problem can be solved if the physics allow it. Well just earlier this year he made me a custom Hasselblad-lens-to-Pentax-645-body adapter...for $150,- ! Isn't he great?

  2. Actually, Kevin, you can. There's an adapter enclosed with the latest version of CFi 50/4 FLE which steps DOWN the bayonett from o70 to o60. It says in the manual that you can use only ONE filter with this combination whereas with bay70 you can use e.g. UV-Sky together with polariser or several filters combined.
  3. My friend came upon a second hand (but like-new) CFi 100 which had some play in the BARREL, not the ring. This was evident when the lens was focused from 1,3 to 0,9m (it goes a little beyond that) and non-existent when focused to infinity. Thus when you turned the f/stop ring or shutter speeds the lens would move left-right for a few milimeters. I don't think this si OK - or is it? My friend is frustrated and doesn't know what to do...
  4. 1.The flickering aperture is typical for MANUAL focus lenses (I have the 35/3.5)and with those lenses the aperture and focal length are NOT imprinted on film, i.e. a sign '--' stands on their place.

     

    2.The zooms have a few focal lenghts stored inside the data resources and thus the imprint is somewhat funny (for 80-160 AF): 80, 107, 117 etc. The wide angle one has (I think) only the full (not unusual) focals: 45, 55, 65, 75, 85. I could be wrong on these but I don't remember any EXACT focal lenght imprints on film - they are all approximates, but still usable as a datum.

  5. I do it like that:I Put the Pentax on manual - i.e. set the f/stop and using the metered manual indicator set the correct shutter speed - and then, using the exp.correction dial set the flash to -1 or -1 1/3. I think this is a pretty secure way for a manual fill using TTL exposure (phew). Your other option is to get a Metz 45/4.
  6. Al: I can't talk right now as I haven't yet discussed the issue of limited series production with the adapter's maker. I will tel you all about the manufacturer (he's famous, heh heh) next week.

     

    Michael: Without a doubt I wouldn't go into such a purchase before knowing and testing the lens. The price is low because there's no interest for such a lens in Europe (can you imagine that?).

    About the 105/2.4 - had one, tested two more, even an old Super-Takumar, all were disappointing wide open.

     

    Kornelius: Again a perfect answer. I salute you.

  7. First, let me explain. I tested my lenses under "ideal" conditions

    and found some pleasant and some unpleasant surprises. The latter

    include my standard, normal lens to be a real bad performer wide open

    and one stop down. At 5.6 it is o.k., but not more than that. So far,

    so good.

     

    As I am getting keen about photographing models at full aperture and

    using "bokeh" extensively, but at the same time needing the top

    sharpness even wide open, I can't decide between two Hasselblad

    lenses I have a chance to buy used: the 100/3.5 C non-T* for $900 or

    the 110/2 F for $1200. I need to know how the 110 performs wide open

    and if the 100 is really better, even wide open. Distorsion is not an

    issue, sharpness is the prime factor here. Please be generous with

    advice. Kornelius, you too ;-)))

     

    Oh, did I mention I will use the lenses on a Pentax 645n via the

    special adapter? They will be used wide open or max. 1-2 stops closed

    because I get the stopped down aperture. But none the less, I am

    looking forward to this combination, I only fear the 110 (or even the

    100) will not be too long for a 'normal lens' on 6x4.5.

     

    Greetings, Alex.

  8. Robert, I couldn't agree more with your choice. Just a few remarks:

     

    Mamiya RZ - My first medium format camera, unforgettable (as the first love). Definitely the 180 for me, a blast of a lens, and I preferred 90 over anything near that focal length. Would also get the 65. Prism and motor are a must!

     

    Hasselblad - The 5xx motorized ones, although I didn't like any Hasslelblad that much. Lenses - the 40 was great, the old one, and I heard many many good things about the 100/3.5, plus a 180 as a tele. OTOH, if shopping for a travel camera, the FE 60-120 wide-to-tele zoom (being tested as world's best zoom lens by FotoMagazin) would be my choice, together with the 202.

     

    Pentax 67 - Had 3 old ones. I'd get the new one, and the latest 55, 105, 135. The zoom has to be a good performer as well.

     

    I am currently shooting all my assignments with the Pentax 645n. I have both zooms, and a range of fixed, faster lenses (35,55,75,135,200). This would also be my choice if, god forbid, I'd have to buy everything from the scratch.

  9. As far as original manufacturer is concerned you're left with a sync cable. There's a shoe that mounts on the 645n body and cables of various lengths to connect with 500FTZ (which needs no separate shoe - as I was told - because it has a port for cable connection just above the battery compartment). You would need some sort of cold shoe with tripod mount at the bottom to mount the flash somewhere, I suppose.
  10. Fred, Jow W. and Irving!

     

    I will TRY to clarify the matter (though Joe already got it cleared).

     

    The subject is fill flash with 645n and 500AF flash.

     

    1.In P mode the exposure compensating dial changes f/stop AND shutter values, however it suits it. Affected is the general exposure.

     

    1.In shutter 'A' mode the dial changes shutter speed. There's a single compensating line in on the exposure bar which moves(visible in viewfinder).

     

    2.In aperture 'A' mode the aperture values change. Same situation as above.

     

    3.In all-manual mode nothing changes regarding exposure (at least the f/stop values and shutter speed stay the same - if you have 1/60 and add +3 compensation, the shutter would fall to 1/8 but upon tripping it the 1/60 is still 1/60 by the sound of it; neither the f/stop reacts...), but the bar in the finder is "full", i.e. not a single line but full 3-step lines. When the 500AF flash is on, the distance indicated on its display changes with rotation of exposure compensation. So I think Joe is right, in all manual mode only TTL exposure is affected by compensation. What a complicated life!

  11. You WON'T be using it for fashion. I have it (and the Pentax 67) and this flash is useless when the subject is more than 1 meter (3 feet) away. It has a GN 12, for god's sake, you can do a nice portrait, but that's it. There's also NO module for the new 67II available. I suggest Hensel 120p Porty and ringlight (1200 J) or Broncolor/Profoto (they are basically the same model) ringflash, which is a REAL one. You won't regret it. All I got from DX12R were red eyes in full length shots. And a couple of grey hair. Switched to Porty and it's just like comparing Yugo to a Chrysler. Trust me, forget the DX12R for fashion and spare yourself the trouble.
  12. I actually sold my EOS to upgrade my existing 67's with a Pentax 645n. One of the best decisions I made! I can do EVERYTHING(!) I have to (i.e. fashion - studio AND catwalk (imagine the strange looks I get), portraits and even reportage). It does great and I find leaving the 67 behind more and more. It's a dangerous camera :-) I suggest you get it as you already own some Canon. I think you won't be sorry.
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