steve_simons

Thanks for your answer. I was just informed that I can use the Vivitar-PC cord with a PC-PC cord, so now I just need to buy the Vivitar-PC cord (I bought the flash used on eBay) and I'll be set.

 

Thanks for your answer.

I recently bought a Vivitar 285 HV and have been learning to use it on

the hot shoe just fine, but the reason I bought it was so I could use

it with a PC sync cable, so today I went out and bought a short coiled

one from the local camera store (all they sell).

 

Well, I brought it home and connected the cord to my camera fine, but

then noticed that, although the smaller end of the cable's diamater

matches the diameter of the shutter socket on the 285HV, the plug

doesn't penetrate very far and... doesn't work!

 

I've had the camera in every different setting, just trying to get the

flash to fire while holding the plug into the socket.

 

I've heard that I need a sort of PC-to-Vivitar cable which, from what

I see in photos, has a pointed end, which makes less sense because

inside the flash where the plug goes in is shallow and there is a flat

piece of metal inside.

 

This is very confusing to me, I figured it'd fire with an ordinary PC

cable because I didn't read anything about any "PC to Vivitar" cables

when I researched the flash.

 

If anyone can help my out with this situation, please do!

Hello,

 

In my high school carpentry class, my new teacher said that I can

make whatever I'd like rather than stick to the "traditional"

projects the rest of the students are doing.

 

Now, this teacher is a photographer also, and when I suggested doing

something related to photography, he seemed pretty interested.

 

Anyway, I've taken a look at different pinhole and large format

projects you can do, and I've thought of some basic studio type

things I can do also, but I'd like anyone elses input in to what

would be an interesting project.

 

I'm pretty stumped at the moment, so if anyone has any ideas, please

share them. If not, I'll just end up making a pinhole camera or

softbox, which is something I could make at home in my own time (my

dad was a carpenter so we have many tools, although working in the

woodwork shop is much nicer).

 

Thanks.

I recently bought a used Canon EOS 5 but the previous owner lost the

manual and I'm stumped for finding some of the features of this

camera. I've got the custom functions list but that's all, if

anyone knows of a manual for this camera online, please let me know

by posting a reply in here.

 

Thanks.

My camera was stored in a small pelican case inside a thick backpack. It wasn't very cold to the touch, and the battery was in the charger overnight. It was better when warmed up a bit but still, I don't think it should be doing things so drastic as shutting off while loading photos.

Well I think my battery is dieing. I first noticed it a while back,

it was a cold day but these batteries are supposed to last 4 hours

(what I heard, D30 battery), and I got the "low battery" sign about

one minute after turning on the camera (no shots fired, no LCD use),

even though the battery was fully charged. So, because of the cold

temperature I suspected it to last around an hour, because I had 4

NimH 2100 AAs in my old Powershot A70 and they last around 6 hours

at room temperature and would last about 3 hours in -35 degree

weather (I've been skiing in that).

 

So today I was in the backcountry skiing with my friends and I

wanted to get a shot of my friend in the fresh snow so I got ready

to shoot, was in the menu for about 5 seconds just double checking

my ISO and format. I look down and, even though I fully charged the

battery last night it was already at low, and it was probably only

around -10 celsius at the time. I shot about 6 raw frames before

the battery died and the camera shut off (battery sign showed

nothing and then top LCD went blank). I turned it off, turned it

back on and chimped a shot before turning it off again.

 

I'm going to take the assumption that my battery has bit the dust,

it is 4 years old after all. So my question is, how long did your

battery last? I'm going to have to buy a new one but I don't know

if I should buy 2 now in case they're extinct years later.

For ice, I shoot a photo of the ice and set my white balance to that image. I also compensate +2 for everyshot but still don't get the detail I want, I'm shooting with a D30 with a 28-105mm f3.5-4.5 II USM lens though, i think with your lenses you should have no problem. Also, try manually focusing, I manually focus 100% of my hockey shots because of the slow AF in the poor light. Try that out and see how you like it.

I've heard rumours too... except the rumour I heard was a camera in between the digital rebel and the 20D.

Greg S,

 

I don't like print film, and I can't get slides developed locally. That's why I own a D30.

I'm trying to decide whether or not I should go on the family

vacation this year. I'll have to be camping for 2 weeks, which

wouldn't be that great because my mom and I don't always get along.

But... I'll be going to Banff/Lake Louise/Jasper where, the last

time I was there I saw SOOOO many deer, bison, bears, mountain

goats, and beautiful landscapes.<br><br>

 

But, I'm torn between something. If I shoot digital while on this

holiday, I'll have to buy something to store my photos on, buy

another couple memory cards and a couple batteries also (third

party). This way, I'll be able to take hundreds of photos with my

D30. I'd be spending about $100 on memory cards, $40 on 2 extra

batterys, and probably $350 on something to story my digital

photos.<br><br>

 

But... I'm worried about dead batteries, media storage breakage and

other things, so I'm wondering if I should shoot slide film. But to

shoot an equal number of photos it'd cost me around $120 in film,

$140 in developing, and I'd need to buy a film camera body which

would be another $300.<br><br>

 

After the vacation, I can always sell the film body, and I can

always sell the media storage device, depending which I buy. But if

I shot film I wouldn't have to worry so much about batteries and

stuff, memory failures and I wouldn't have to get it all developed

at once (build up some good anticipation), but I'd have to buy a

film scanner to scan the photos (I'm planning on buying one anyways

for my home business), which is another $300 which would be the same

price as the film body, but again, I wouldn't have to buy this right

away.<br><br>

 

Also, to clarify, these prices I mentioned were in Canadian

dollars.<br><br>

 

Here are the pros and cons I've thought of:<br><br>

 

<b>Digital</b>:<br><br>

 

<i>Pros</i><br>

- Delete unwanted photos<br>

- No scanning, no developing<br>

- 1.6x crop factor helps with wildlife photos<br>

- Wide range of ISOs so I won't miss a shot (but get some noisy ones)

<br><br>

 

<i>Cons</i><br>

- Memory Failure<br>

- Weight<br>

- Only 3mp<br>

- Batteries<br>

- Slow AF (D30)<br>

- lack of wide angle because of 1.6x crop<br><br><br>

 

 

<b>Film</b>:<br><br>

 

<i>Pros</i><br>

- Full Frame shots<br>

- Faster Autofocus (probably Canon Elan 7 or A2E)<br>

- Light Weight<br>

- Bigger Prints<br>

- Good on Batteries<br>

- I downright love slides :D<br>

- I could always shoot photos of my slides on a lighttable with my

D30 for web-sized photos and get the slides scanned for print by

labs.<br><br>

 

<i>Cons</i><br>

- Full Frame means my 105mm lens would only be 105mm...<br>

- Expensive<br>

- Don't get to see the results right away.<br><br>

 

 

Please post your opinions and ideas, I'm leaning towards shooting

film but it's just so expensive. Digital is just too unreliable and

my D30 is too slow (autofocus) and too low of resolution for what I

want to do with the photos (big prints, etc.).<br><br>

 

Originally, I was hoping to buy a new lens for this trip

(telephoto). But at the moment it's not looking like it.

Technically, I could buy all the stuff here... but I need to buy a

vehicle before school starts so I'd like to keep the cost low.

I read a post in the nature forum where the poster had mention that

Fujifilm Sensia is amateur. Now, I don't know that much about slide

film since I couldn't afford it/can't get it processed in town, so

I've only ever shot one roll and it was Sensia 400. The results, in

my opinion, were downright INCREDIBLE. But, am I missing out on

this? Is what I thought was good improved on by other films out

there?

 

To be honest I didn't even know there was such a thing as amateur

slide film, I don't know any point & shoot people that use it, so I

figured it was all professional.

First of all, I really like the colour balance of a roll of slides,

such as Fujichrome Sensia II or another alike film.

 

The example I will use is skiing. In a good skiing photo taken with

slide film, the snow (on a groomed run) will have very saturated

blue shadows. This is also because a bit of polarization, but I

love those deep blue shadows. With print film, the shadows become

gray.

 

Does anyone have an estimate of the color temperature and tint for

film so I can set my digiSLR to take roughly the same temperatured

pics. I'd do a test right now... but there's no snow and I just

sold my EOS body.

Put the Polarizer out the Outside so you can rotate it easily.

I suggest trying a bunch of different rolls and choosing your favorite from the bunch you selected.

 

Try getting a roll of Kodak Portra 160VC in there, I had a good experience with that film.

A- are you talking about old or recent shots by these 'old lenses'?

Recent shots with older lenses.

 

B- do you have specific exemples of what lenses where actually used ?

Not every one.

 

C- where the scans made from slides, negatives or prints ?

Some slides, some negs, some prints.

 

D- where those scans made with a good scanner by an experienced user ?

The color in the scans were good, the person's shots with new equipment were also good, just the older camera shots weren't as nice.

 

and finally: E- what lenses do you actually have for your FX-3 ?

50/1.8ML, 28/2.8, Tokina 80-200/4 (I rarely used this). I wasn't talking about my prints from this cam tho since I was a very inexperienced photographer when I used it.

 

---------------------------------------------------------

 

I think my question was partially answered with one person though, didn't look at the name, but he said that the lens may be a bit hazy and need cleaning.

 

I'll take it that the results I was seeing were from hazy lenses and possibly nudged mirrors resulting in Poor Focus.

I don't know why... but it always seems that photos taken with an

older camera setup with an old lens from the 70's or so always turn

out looking kind of soft and the colors seem off. Is it because of:

 

- Inexperienced Photographers

- Poor Scan Quality

- Poor Metering in Camera

- Focus is Off

- Camera mirror is off resulting in poor focus

- Poor Optics

 

I'm just wondering because I'm considering investing in some slide

film to use with an older Yashica FX-3 I used to use. But when I

look at my old photos and photos of people I know who use older

cameras along with looking at photos taken by people with older

cameras, the photos never seem as sharp and I'm wondering if I

should even bother if the optics of the lens don't give very good

contrast & sharpness.

 

I've seen many incredible photos from older cameras and especially

ones from back when these cameras were new, which means even more

because I doubt the film they used back then was anywhere near the

quality of todays films. Many of those shots could have been taken

with very expensive glass and handheld light meters.

 

 

BTW: I know I'm talking a bit about cameras in here, but it's

mainly about lenses, I know that the camera basically opens & closes

the shutter.

There's not a drastic difference between the two lenses.

 

Effective aperture size of 16-35mm at 35mm f2.8:

12.5

 

Effective aperture size of 17-40mm at 40mm f4:

10

 

Not all that much of a difference, but you get 5mm more on the 17-40 and... 17-40 is cheaper, correct?

 

I'm not arguing with you since I haven't used either lens so I have no personal preference, and you did make a point, but i'm just adding my $0.02

Ah, please disregard / delete this post. I found their website again and answered the question for myself. thanks.

This is driving me nuts, I just got 2 free Cokin P filters from a

friendly person on FredMiranda.com.

 

Anyways, I don't have a holder for P mount. I have an A mount

holder which easily snaps onto my EF 28-105mm lens by a little

groove on the end of the lens.

 

Now, I've been searching for a holder for the P mount. And I've

narrowed it down to the fact that it doesn't exist in town, not to

mention they're trying to sell the A holder for $24 with the coupler.

 

Anyways, from sources on the sites I've found it's saying that you

need to buy an adapter to fit the thing onto your lens.

 

Can someone make some sense of this very confusing matter for me? I

have a ND Grad and Tobacco Grad I'd really like to try out but

unless I want to hold it onto the lens I need a holder.

Canon D30

EF 28-105mm f3.5-4.5 II USM

Canon EOS Rebel Ti (selling soon)

Optex 58mm Circular Polarizer

(hoping to buy later on) Canon EOS Elan 7

(hoping to buy later on) Telephoto Lens or Ultra Wide lens

 

I'd have more equipment but my priority for my money is buying a car. Man, it's tough being 16 :P

I don't think I could ever afford the 100-300 5.6L on my budget. I'm looking at spending like $300 Canadian which means the 100-300 would be the better choice.

I'm in a situation here where I will only have the money to buy one

lens, but will be using it for multiple situations.

 

I'll be shooting wildlife and sports with this lens, sports being

Skiing, Snowboarding and soccer (no tightly cropped shots, I hate

that stuff, just get some extra reach). The 80-210mm would be best

for this. But, for wildlife I'll need the extra reach of a 300mm

lens, so I'm wondering, would I be able to put a 3rd party

teleconverter on the 80-210mm f/3.5-4.5 or is it too slow?

 

It's either the 80-210mm f/3.5-4.5 with a 1.4x TC

or a 100-300mm f/4-5.6 or 75-300mm f/4.5-5.6.

 

I've read that the quality of the 75-300mm lenses is pretty bad past

200mm. Would the loss of quality with the TC on the 80-210mm lens

equal the 75-300mm @ 300mm?

 

Also, if anyone has any other suggestions, they'd definitely help.

I'm on a VERY tight budget as I still have to buy the rest of my

computer (i've bought the case, motherboard and hard drive... need

the rest).

If you want a really small body, I'm selling a Rebel Ti for $150. If you want a body to equal your Elan 7... maybe another Elan 7 or an EOS 5 / A2E? Don't get the EOS A2 though, in manual metering it only tells you if it's under, proper, or over exposed, not +/-2 scale.

Lately I've been getting very bad results with my Canon D30. When I

first got the image the results never seemed bad at all, but I've

been shooting landscapes and some wildlife photos and the results

have been awful. Could it have been that I've been shooting RAW

lately, I'm very experienced with Photoshop and I've taken some

excellent RAW photos... but lately they've been awful. Like, the

images look pixelated and for the landscape photos the trees in the

background look like a big green smear.

I'm stupid... I just fixed the turning then loosening thing. But yeah, opinions, I shoot a lot of landscapes and wildlife photos, should I be looking into getting a quality tripod?