mlynch

<p>How about Gene M?</p>

<p>Simone, ignore my post above. I was thinking that the 8008 behaved like the F100 . Sorry for the confusion. Rodeo Joe has the correct approach.</p>

<I>Mark has informed me that the following answer is incorrect, so please ignore it.</I> -- Shun Cheung

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<p>If you are in Aperture mode the lens needs needs to be set to f16 (orange mark) and the small switch on the lens needs to have the white dot slid to match the orange dash mark. Without doing this the camera cannot control the aperture. You dial in the aperture on the camera not on the lens.</p>

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<p>Yes, the camera chooses the aperture if you have done as Dave says.</p>

<p>Hi Chris:<br>

<br />I am glad you got your F4s to work, it is a wonderful camera. One other area, that is somewhat counter-intuitive, for the same type of symptoms is the interchangeable viewfinder. There are contacts there and they a are prone to misalignment. So, my advise is that you don't remove it if you don't have to. And if you do, be gentle.</p>

<p>Glad to see his web site is back, it was down for several months. Thanks for the post.</p>

<p>I think some of it depends on your computer platform and printer. I use both programs. I find myself using LR 5 recently. But, if I have to print anything I always return to Aperture. Aperture's print routines produce the most pleasing and best matches to my calibrated set up. I use an iMac and Epson R1900 printer. </p>

<p>Try google. "MR 44 adapter", looks like there is a company in the UK that sells them. If they are anything like the CRIS adapter for 625 batteries, you'll be happy...I was with the CRIS.</p>

 

<p>I agree with Gus. I have a lot of work experience with colored anodized finishes. That particular part did not spend enough time in the final hot water sealant bath. A common problem when parts are rushed through. Not having enough time or perhaps not hot enough bath will not correctly "lock" the dye stuff into the anodic layer of the finish. When this happens black anodize will sometimes turn an ugly brown or a purplish brown or a washed out black (blue). The dye materials are particularly sensitive to UV light when the sealing is improper. So leaving the lens exposed to sunlight, even for relatively short periods, will hasten the color shift. The other possibility, when that part was processed, the dye bath was spent or too diluted. Anodizing is a form of electroplating and parts have to be racked or fixtured individually. All the lens components would more than likely been treated at different times.</p>

<p>For what you might pay to get a new lens you could pay a pro. Get a pro...for both events. You will stay friends with the bride/groom and enjoy the wedding(s). Make it your wedding present if the couple doesn't have the means or the time. Weddings are a lot of work. To be effective the photographer normally tries to tell a story. Having more than person shooting is playing whisper down the lane...</p>

<p>Just ordered some from the web site.</p>

<p>Thank you Gabor, it would be a shame if the storm put them out of business. They really do nice work.</p>

<p>I have the FTbN. This camera has remained in our family since it came out of the box. It is a delight to use. Canon FD glass is wonderful and relatively inexpensive considering the quality. I think Mr. Rockwell hit the nail on the head with his summary.</p>

<p>I second Raymond's suggestions. If you have a Canon T-90 you have to actuate the shutter every day or the dreaded aperture magnet failure occurs. </p>

<p>Look inside the hot shoe, toward the lens side.</p>

<p>180 f2.8 AF</p>

 

<p>http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?topic_id=23&msg_id=001ZNn</p>

 

<p>How about VueScan? Ed Hamrick is always pretty accessible on the net via email. </p>

<p>Second, Matt's experience. I have one of their geared heads and love it. No troubles at all.</p>

<p>I agree with Anura, the Tokina AT-X Pro D 100 2.8 has served me well. Also like the Voigtländer (Cosina) 20mm f3.5. Only two third party lenses I own.</p>

<p>I agree with Anura, the Tokina AT-X Pro D 100 2.8 has served me well. Also like the Voigtländer (Cosina) 20mm f3.5. Only two third party lenses I own.</p>

<p>I second Shadforth's recommendation. For one large reason. When Nvidia had is GPU problem. Apple worked out a a deal with Nvidia to accept responsibility for the bad chipsets it sold them. HP didn't do this although HP's machines have the same issues. Our daughter's MBP after 3 years of use but failing due to the Chipset problem, was repaired at no charge. HP is not willing to accept this issue as a warranty problem. As a result my mothers high end HP laptop is useless.</p>

<p>BTW I find the display on MBP to be as good, if not better than the HP's (when I could see it).</p>

<p>Ralf:</p>

<p>Really nice shots of Brewster. I spent most of my Augusts' and early Septembers' there (East Brewster) since 1956 until 2003. Nice work.</p>

<p>Hi Marten:</p>

<p>I went to the ProShow Gold website. The only way I could see to run this on a Mac is to use a program like Parallels that allows you to load the windows OS on your Mac. A little off topic; if you also use Quicken products you may want to seriously investigate this option. The financial software packages for the Mac aren't in the same league.</p>

<p> I've been very happy with my Spyder 3. </p>

<p>With my Epson R1900 printer I've had better success with printed output using Aperture, but for your interests I'd say Lightroom is better.</p>

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