kin_lau

December 2, 2009

DaveL said,

1:1 working distance for the 60mm and 90mm Tamron lenses is the same (100mm). Therefore, at the same working distance, the enlargement is the same. I know this is not typical for macro lenses. What you're telling me is what I thought, that the articles I've read about these lenses are wrong. Even though they are different focal lengths, the fact that they both have the same 1:1 working distance means that they will yield the same perspective.

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The 90mm is the older model designed for 35mm full-frame, the 60mm is the newer model designed for APS-C sized cropped sensors. The 1:1 mag is with those factors in mind, so the 90mm is _not_ 1:1 at the same distance with an APS-C type DSLR, more like 1.6:1, larger than lifesize at the same distance, or you'll have to move further back.

October 29, 2009

Even the old 10D can handle the new 64gig CF's, so I think your 40D will be fine. My 20D handles a 32gig card just fine.

October 29, 2009

The Best Western on Brookdale is probably your best option for wedding formals. What time of the year will this be? You could alway try for the old Domtar plant if you want some gritty urban setting.

You're only 45min's away in Ottawa... it's best to take a drive down, but your options are going to be very limited. I'm in Ottawa as well, but I visit family in Cornwall fairly often.

October 17, 2009

Have you tried a different CF card?

October 16, 2009

I'm using the 7D + 400/5.6L for birding. I've only had the combo for about 2 weeks, but it's very good. My 1Dm2 is still faster, but for the weight savings, the 7D will be welcome.

With the 7D, I would not hesitate to shoot at iso3200. The Pileated in this link, was shot at iso3200. <a href="http://outdoorontario.net/Gallery/Yard-birds">http://outdoorontario.net/Gallery/Yard-birds</a>

October 16, 2009

My wife and I have the 300D, 350D, 400D, 20D, 1Dm2, 1Ds and now the 7D.

For high-iso, the 7D is easily the best, by far.

Here's a iso 3200 shot

Here's a 100% crop (I didn't focus on the head - this is just for noise, it's also a handheld shot with a 400/5.6 @ 1/100)

October 16, 2009

I've had mine for about 2 weeks. No problems, Canon and Sigma lenses, original and 3rd party battery, probably about 2,000 shutter actuations and 15min's of video so far. Sandisk Extreme III and A-Data CF's, iso from 100 to 12,800.

October 1, 2009

If the 170-500 that Frank referenced is still available, get that. It's the cheapest option you'll have for longer glass at a cheap price... $299- for that lens is a _very_ good price.

The bonus is that it's also a step up in image quality from your 70-300.

September 24, 2009

Tokina was also known to have issues. Particularly certain versions of the AT-X 28-70/2.6-2.8 had AF issues. There are also others.

As for Tamron, it's been repeatedly denied by both Canon and Tamron that Tamron made a deal with Canon for the AF communication protocol, but that rumor/suspicion persists.

September 22, 2009

The 7D + 400/5.6L should be a near perfect combo for BIF (birds in flight) if the 7D's AF is as good as it's suppose to be (1D level performance).

I'm looking forward to getting a 7D. I'm currently shooting with a 1Dm2.

September 22, 2009

I just saved a fairly detailed TIF using LZW compression from a 10.5MB 1Ds raw file, and it ended up around 19.5MB. The same file using ZIP compression was 17.8MB.

September 22, 2009

For Sigma not to be able to rechip a lens, it has to be at least 10 if not 15yrs or older. I have about 10 Sigma lenses, varying from new to 10years old. All work fine on all current digital bodies.

If you're willing to put up with the "partial compatiblities" like the Nikon users, then you can always tape the pins on the lens, and it'll work in manual mode.

BTW, the wrong lens on certain Nikon bodies will _crush_ the metering pin on the body. Keep that in mind.

September 17, 2009

The 32gig cards are at a very nice price point now. The rebates on the Sandisk 32gig Extreme III's make them very attractive if you're in the US.

I also have a 32gig A-Data that cost me about CDN$90-. Write speeds are about 10MB/s, but read speeds are 30MB/s, so they download very quickly.

September 17, 2009

I have the Sigma 120-300/2.8, and it's a very nice lens and very sharp. The biggest problem with it, and just about any 300/2.8 is the weight. After slinging my 120-300/2.8 + 1Dm2 around for a bit, my wife's XTi + 50-500 (which is a heavy lens as well) feels like nothing.

September 11, 2009

I went thru the same process recently, and I ended up with a 1Ds classic. If a 5D was available for around the same price, I would have gone for the 5D instead.

The 5D and 40D/30D/20D all use the same battery. I also have a 20D, so that would have been nice.

I already had a 1D & 1Dm2, and 3rd party batteries for them are cheap, so I wasn't worried about a battery for the 1Ds.

Bob is getting the 1D and 1Ds mixed up. The 1Ds classic is CMOS, not CCD (that's the 1D classic) and battery life is fine. I recently put 500 shots thru my 1Ds for a wedding, and speed was not an issue either.

However, sensor noise on the 1Ds classic is not good. My 20D is much better @ ISO400. Just make sure you don't underexpose.

The huge VF on the 1Ds is great... I have a EC-L focusing screen which has dual split prisms for manual focusing.

July 22, 2009

Sigma 50-500. I have two of them. It's the same length as my 70-200/2.8 but considerably heavier. On a 1.6x crop body, it's a pretty good focal length for birds.

I used the 50-500 for 90% of my shots last year going thru the Canadian Rockies.

Get the 50/1.8 for portraits.

June 30, 2009

The issues with the 100-400 is mostly due to product variance. Enough users have had to go thru 3, 4 or 5 different copies before getting a satisfactory lens, that it's an issue. Of course, you could also be the guy who gets a good one the first time.

For birds tho, there's nothing else out there in the same price range that is as good as the 400/5.6L, not just image quality, but probably more importantly AF speed. For closeups, get an extension tube, or a good quality closeup lens like the Canon 500D.

May 22, 2009

First thing, make sure you have the latest firmware. There's a setting for a colour curve to get rid of the banding issue which many cameras have.

I find that up to iso800, it's okay, but not beyond that.

I always shoot RAW only and 2gig is the largest CF card you can use the full capacity of (the shots remaining will be off).

The 3rd party batteries from Ebay have worked fine for me but battery life is short regardless of what battery you use.

I've made 8x10's cropped from just a 1/4 frame, so those 4mps go a long way.

You'll probably want to back off the USM sharpening in Photoshop, as the anti-alias filter on the original 1D is very weak, so images are quite sharp straight from the camera.

May 20, 2009

Have you tried cleaning the contacts on your camera and the lens?

HSM or USM uses high voltage. It's the rightmost contact if you're looking at your camera without a lens mounted. Use an pencil eraser on it, and give it a try again.

Your 18-50/2.8 lens is not HSM, so it would not use the same contact.

I have a half-dozen Sigma HSM lenses and have not had this problem. I've fried a number of 2x TC's, basically fusing that last pin on a 1Dm2 + 120-300/2.8 combo due to flex in the TC. That's how I know which pin it is.

March 10, 2009

I use the 120-300/2.8 + 2xTC on a 1Dm2 for birds. It's heavy, but the IQ is still very good. It's not as good with the just the 1.4x or w/o any TC, but still good enough.

The 1Dm2 is a 1.3x crop, but on a 1.5x crop, I would suggest the 50-500 instead.. I carry that when I don't feel like hauling the 120-300 + 2x on a hike. The 50-500 is a very good travel lens too, it's about the same length as a 70-200/2.8.

March 10, 2009

Good luck.

I have a 1D, 1Dm2, 20D, 300D, 350D and 400D. All except for the 1D work just fine with remote capture and connections.

The original 1D and 1Ds don't use the same remote capture software. I noticed when updating that the names are different. The latest versions won't even recognize the old 1D.

February 13, 2009

Break it up.

If that EF50/1.8 is the 1st version with the metal mount, it'll likely be the most valuable piece. The EF 70-210/4 will likely sell quickly as well.

Sell everything else as a kit.

February 13, 2009

I'll second the recommendation for the 58/1.4, it's the perfect match for the SRT series as well in weight and touch.

The beercan 70-210/4 is also very nice.

I tend to put/keep the older and heavier lenses on the SRT and XE series as they balance well. I also the the XD-11 and X-700/570 bodies that work well with the more "modern" lenses.

February 13, 2009

I have the EF 28/2.8, 35/2, 50/1.8 and 85/1.8 as well as the Sigma 30/1.4.

The 35/2 was a great walkaround "normal" till the AF broke and I replaced it with the Sigma 30/1.4. You have to be careful not to have foliage in the background with the 35/2 when doing group shots or full-length shots.

The 85/1.8 is great for candids or tight portraits on my 20D.

My suggestion would be the Sigma 30/1.4, as it is the closest in build and IQ to the EF 85/1.8.

January 22, 2009

A number of retailers in Toronto have them on the shelves. I've also spoken to a number who've had them since December.

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