brian hanson

Yes, The T series flashes are for the T series bodies, although they also work on most other FD camera bodies as well. It is a great flash, but the T-50 is not a great camera, but that is just my opinion.

They are all good cameras, However, I really can only use my New F1 because I take a lot of long exposures and the earlier cameras only go down to 1 sec. The F1N goes to 8 sec. I still do use my A-1s and T90s more because they go to 30 sec. Check out http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/canonf1/index.htm

They also have a page on the other versions. Good Luck!

Does your lens stop down when you release the shutter?

For that price I would definitely try to get a Canon. You might pay a bit more, but you know what you have.

When I read the title I asked myself "Why?" These lenses can be found in good shape for the cost of having them repaired. But now I see that you are thinking of doing it yourself so "Why Not?". No, there is nothing that will jump out at you but go slowly and set everything down in order as you take it out. The screws are very small and it is just as likely that you will damage them as get them out in one piece. Have fun, but you might as well start looking for another lens ASAP. BTW, it is not oil, but some type of grease that is needed. Oil will get all over your lens. How can you take a picture with oil all over your lens?! On the other hand, have you seen how much soft focus lenses are going for! Good Luck! Brian

Where can I find these things? I have two of the regular 1X ones,

but it looks like it would be pretty hard to take the glass out and

put a different filter in. Also, is it necessary to have glass in

the filter holder? These things always seem to magically get dirty,

even though I never remove them from the lens. Also, they seem to

be a touch gray, which must add at least a little neutral density.

I need a 25A drop-in 34mm filter for this lens. Thanks. Brian.

These are good cameras but they cost as much to clean up as they are worth. However, if you do get a CLA it will most likely take great photos for many years to come. If it has sentimental value to it then by all means get it done, but if you are looking for a great camera for serious use, get an F-1 or a T-90. I also love my A-1s. Good Luck.

I personally have never much liked zoom lenses, If you do a direct comparison with your prime lenses you will know why, but it seems to me that you could buy another lens at KEH or Ebay for the price of fixing this one. You seem to have this range covered with your prime lenses, Why would you want a zoom of this focal length?

I own both, and they are both great cameras, but I can not answer your question without knowing what you want to use the camera for. The T90s one big advantage is its ability to use A-TTL with a TTL flash. I feel that the F1 is much more dependable and rugged if you get out in the woods with it. So, my question is, do you shoot in a studio or in the field?

Thanks for Responding, I was just checking to see if I was the only one checking in on this forum on a regular basis. Good to see the interest is still there, at least with a few of us.

I guess everybody from the Alternative Processes forum has quit and

joined the Photoshop Forum. It's a Shame, but maybe now my work

will be more rare and valuable.

Thank You, Doug. I will try this sometime. Brian.

Raid and Aki, I have never heard of AE with the standard finder on a F1N, How does this work, or where can I read about this? Thanks, Brian.

That is a good idea and I would try it, but if you lose battery power the shutter will not fire at all. The A1s are great cameras, I love mine, but are a dime a dozen on ebay so I would return it unless you got it real cheap. At any rate, you should get a CLA for a 25 year old camera even if it works well.

To answer that question I would need to know how much you paid for it.

They are great cameras.

I have both of those cameras and I would love to see them.

Does anyone know how to reduce contrast in this film. I have been

giving it 6 minutes in Tmax developer and it is very contrasty even

when the photo is taken in low contrast light. Has anyone ever

diluted Tmax developer? If so, how much and how much should I

extend the time. Reducing grain would be nice sometimes but what I

want is more latitude and less contrast.

Also, this last batch that I developed has some light spots on

the negatives. They are not blisters, or at least they are not open

if they are because the spots are not black on the print, just a bit

darker. What caused this? I used fresh stop bath and fixer. The

developer was mixed about a month ago but has been kept in a bottle

with no air in it and has only developed about four rolls of film.

The negatives otherwise are fine and well developed. Thanks for any

help offered.<div></div>

This may not be of any help but since no one else has answered yet, I thought that I might throw you an idea. I think that if the button on the bottom of the camera that you push in to rewind the film is stuck in that you may have this problem with some cameras. Check to see if this button is stuck. If it is, it may not be too tough to fix. Am I right? Brian.

Thanks so much for all of your help. I will buy the circular polarizer. This forum is such a great resource!

Thanks Dan. I have been using linear polarizers for a long time with my FTb and A-1, and with no problems. But from what I can see on the web is that it may be a problem with my T-90. Does anybody know for sure? Also, Should I buy thin filters to use with this 20mm 2.8 lens? Thanks.

Do I need a circular polarizer? I know that they are mostly for auto

focus cameras, but I have read that they need to be used for proper

metering as well. I use T-90s, A-1s, and an F-1 and I am going to

buy some new filters because I just got a 20mm 2.8, old style, and I

need ND, Polarizer, and UV filters for it. Do I need the thin type

for this lens? I plan to buy B+W, but I am open to suggestions,

especially if they are cheaper! Thanks, Brian.

I have several of them, almost one for each camera I own, and I bought them all on ebay. A man with the seller ID wps47 has some.

Try Ebay. Good luck!

Thanks a lot for all of your help. The PhotoNotes website has all of the info I wanted, but it is a lot to wade through! It is very interesting though, thanks again.

Thank you Paul, I had seen that before, but that can't be the whole manual, is it? It does not look like a typical canon manual, and I was hoping for a little more info. Thanks again, Brian.