scott_gardner1

<p>Nha Le, if you're still following this conversation, how did it work out?</p>

<p>Nha Le, Mark was trained by and worked for Yashica in Japan so he is one of the most knowledgeable service people in the U.S. Your camera is in good hands.<br>

That said, has he announced that he is retiring?<br>

btw, since I made my post in 2010, I bought a 124 from someone who had had it serviced by Mark and it works very well indeed.</p>

<p>Yeah, we're lurking. ;)<br>

I too am about to revisit film -- though local labs are almost all closed.<br>

If you can find a clean 139Q, it's a fine platform for your Zeiss glass albeit without the sophistication to fully optimize the TLA360.<br>

The RX may be my 'favorite' Contax SLR body. Easy to use, quiet and very flexible. The complexity of RTSIII has always put me off, especially the vacuum back.</p>

<p>Yes, I know this thread is old, but you're looking at it aren't you? ;o)</p>

<p>While the Benbo name continues, the original designer of the 'bent bolt' tripod, Ken Brett, left the company and started another one -- Uni-loc. It offers similar products with, IMO, improvements. Uni-loc is not easy to find in the U.S.<br /> <br /> If you're going to be using the tripod outdoors, especially near the ground and/or on uneven terrain, the bent bolt tripods are terrific. Once you learn how to handle one, other tripods seems very limiting.</p>

<p>This is obviously a long time after this conversation was current, but in case anyone else checks it, please note that the Canon EF 28-135 IS USM is NOT 135mm. I noticed mine seemed short and compared it with a fixed focal length 135 and the difference in FOV was startling. I did additional tests and finally determined that the 135 setting correlated to 90mm in a fixed lens. This is apparently a characteristic of varifocal lenses that is especially noticeable when they cover a wide range -- in this case ~5x.</p>

<p>Update to my response above; KEH now offers a six month warranty as well.</p>

<p>Ken, apologies for my very tardy response; I must have missed the email update.<br>

Thanks for the tip about the green circle. It makes the focus indicator much more useful!<br>

The focus screen is interesting. Not necessarily bright, but I've found it has a kind of granularity that makes it relatively easy to achieve accurate focus anywhere on the screen. And the microprism/split RF work for pretty much any other situation.</p>

<p>Barry, I'd suggest you post this in the classified section of photo.net.</p>

<p>Easiest to answer Chuck's question with a pic of the, um, damage.</p>

<p><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/i54FTFJfhDgFDKulhchFuA?feat=directlink">http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/i54FTFJfhDgFDKulhchFuA?feat=directlink</a></p>

<p>Now that I look at it more closely, I also see a dent in the upper left corner. And wondering what's around the edge of the VF frame . . . ??<br /><br />The DL was so distracting I missed the other stuff!</p>

<p>BTW, if there's a way to attach image files to this kind of discussion, please point me to the instructions.</p>

<p>I'm being offered an otherwise clean black Oly 35SP that has a previous owner's driver's license number clearly engraved on the top of the back panel.<br /> <br /> How much should that affect the selling price of the camera?<br /> <br /> TIA!/ScottGee1</p>

<p>To answer your original question . . . I've used both on APS-C bodies. The Tamron performed better at wide apertures and has a longer warranty backed up by a better service department. If you value those things and the prices are close, it's a slam dunk.</p>

<p>While I get the primes argument, for the kind of work you're doing, a zoom will provide more flexibility and allow you to work faster. But I bet you already knew that. And unless you're a pixel peeper, I doubt you'll see much a difference in performance either.</p>

<blockquote>

<p><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=5015995">R. Malecki</a> , suggested:<br>

I would guess that if your Tamron lens is not sharp..............send it back. You have a 6 yr. warranty.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Hmmm . . . IME, warranty is honored only when a copy of the original store receipt is presented. If Tamron does the service w/o it, please let us know.</p>

<p>BTW, I had a Tamron 28-75 a few years back and regret selling it; splendid performer and better than my Canon 28-70 'L' at f/2.8!</p>

<p>So, Ken; how do you like the RX?</p>

<p>I'm particularly interested in how the viewfinder compares with your 159.</p>

<p>TIA!</p>

<p>So, Ken; how do you like the RX?</p>

<p>I'm particularly interested in how the viewfinder compares with your 159.</p>

<p>TIA!</p>

<p>Wellllll . . . alrighty then!</p>

<p>Think I'll pass on playing the Leica R lottery . . .</p>

<p>Thanks to all for the advice!</p>

<p>I called Dwayne's this morning and they echoed the suggestion to shoot a roll and send it to them for processing to see how it looks. Truly, that's the only way to find out. Based on what Larry says, I may want to filter some of the shots a bit warm (and maybe cool?) to test it.</p>

<p>I tried to contact Kodak but their site seems to be having major problems -- links don't go to the correct page and chat is down -- so I'll try later to find out if I can get anything out of the mailers.</p>

<p>I just found a small box that I thought was lost in our last move. It contains about a dozen rolls of Kodachrome 25 and 64 with a couple K40 tungsten thrown in for fun. Also, a number of PK36 mailers.</p>

<p>The film is dated 1986/7. I know Kodachrome's stability is remarkable but can't recall if that's pertains only to processed film. As you've already figured out, it wasn't refrigerated.</p>

<p>So, do I have trash or treasure? If the latter, are the mailers still accepted?</p>

<p>TIA!/Scott</p>

<p>Imagineer, that link is very helpful! Just in case Manfrotto decides to change it in the future, here is the substance of it for Canon gear:</p>

<p>Bodies with 'N3' connectors, e.g., 1Ds MkII, 1Ds, 1D MkII, 1D, 20D, 10D, D60, D30, D2000, 1V HS, 1V, 3, require 322RS Manfrotto cable model U5FW43.</p>

<p>Bodies with 'E3' connectors, e.g., XT, 300D, Elan 7 series, Elan II series, Rebel T2, Ti, 2000, G, X, XS, XSN, IX, require 322RS Manfrotto cable model 522SCA.</p>

<p>Bodies with 'T3' connectors, e.g., 1NRS, 1N, A2, A2E, require 322RS Manfrotto cable model U5FW46.</p>

<p>Be forewarned, these cables are<em><strong> stupid </strong></em>expensive. I've talked with Kevin at Bogen about it and he has some rationale for the price, but IMO it still can't be justified. YMMV.</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>Where can i find the 15-85mm lens for $720?</p>

</blockquote>

 

<p>A number of reliable etailers sell it for around that price -- including pnet sponsor Adorama:</p>

<p>http://www.adorama.com/Als/ProductPage/CA1585ISU.html</p>

<p>Why <em>this</em> page doesn't have a link to their site puzzles me.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Luke wrote:<br>

My keeper ratio went way up.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>That makes it easy! Just divide the cost difference by all those extra good pix and it'll make a lot more sense!<br>

<strong>;o)</strong></p>

<p>I'm very glad to read recent positive reports about Mark Hama.</p>

<p>Last year there were numerous postings about him essentially disappearing from the scene along with the equipment people had sent him to repair so this is very good new indeed!</p>

<p>Those of us who appreciate and use older gear are very much dependent on repair people with the requisite skills to keep them functioning at its best. The catch is that most are one-man shops and if they have a serious health problem or are otherwise indisposed, communication stops because only they know their 'system'. That happened with my local guy and seriously damaged his reputation.</p>

<p>BTW, from what I've read, English is not Mark's primary language and he is more comfortable speaking it than writing it so phone calls may be easier for him.</p>

<p>One very important note regarding the RRS lever clamps (and maybe lever clamps in general?) . . . RRS tells us:<br>

"Due to wide variations in other brands of Arca-Swiss compatible plates, we recommend using our lever-release clamps only with Really Right Stuff or Wimberley brand quick-release plates."</p>

<p>They ain't kidding. I had (note past tense) an RRS lever clamp and tried to use it with one of my Markins plates. It slipped right out of the clamp!</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Victor, did you try posting this to the Leica forum?<br>

Might have better luck there . . .</p>

<p>Bill, thanks for that suggestion! GIMP had fallen off my radar for some unknown reason . . . and as much as Microsoft's products frustrate me, I<em> should </em>switch to LINUX.</p>

<p>LOL -- JDM, reading that book is exactly what prompted my question.</p>

<p>I have no need for the full version of PS/CS but Margulis makes such a strong case for LAB that I want to try it for myself.</p>

<p>Matt, you do indeed understand my question and your response is very helpful. I'll look into the Corel programs.</p>

<p>Many thanks/Scott</p>

<p>p.s. What does pnet have against exclamation points?</p>