idoy

Yakim, after trying the 17-40, please write your impression here. I'm also interested in this lens.

 

Thanks,

Ido

Again, I recommend reading the <a href="http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/">PhotoNotes flash photography guide</a> carefully. It's excellent, and will probably answer all your questions.

<br>

As for <i>using it at higher shutter speeds to compensate for camera shake, when taking hand held shots of fast moving subjects in low light conditions</i>, this isn't exactly right. But you can use the flash at slow shutter speed (below the x-sync speed). The flash will freeze the close object while allowing to expose the background properly (the background will suffer from camera shake, though).

Read <a href="http://www.vanwalree.com/optics/dof.html">here</a>.

I'm too slow...

Take a look at the <a href="http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/#fp">PhotoNotes explanation of this issue</a>.

<br>

As long as you're using shutter speed below the x-sync limit of your camera, it doesn't matter what mode you're using. It matters only for shutter speeds above the x-sync.

Since you'll have to buy lenses too (and possibly other accessories as well, e.g. flash), the question isn't just what camera to buy - it's actually what camera system to buy.

<br>

Once you understand this, you should broaden your point of view. For example, take a look at the lenses you'll want to buy and compare what each brand can offer you. When I did this comparison my impression was that usually Canon offers cheaper lenses than Nikon, with similar quality (I didn't look at other brands at the time, because my impression was that Canon and Nikon had the best range of lenses to offer).

<br>

Also, take a look at this article by Philip Greenspun: <a href="http://philip.greenspun.com/photography/building-a-digital-slr-system">Building a Digital SLR Camera System</a>.

The Canon 100/2.8 USM Macro is both a macro and a telephoto, and is under $500. It's also said to be an excellent lens.

I think this thread is relevant: <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00CbWY">http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00CbWY</a>

I'm not sure the rebates can explain it, because the gray market version (on which there's no rebate) is also out of stock.

The 2.8 aperture also enables the camera to AF in lower light.

The EF 85/1.8 is out of stock (back-ordered) for some time now in B&H

and Adorama. They say they can't tell when it'll be available.

 

Does anybody have an idea what this might mean, or - from past

experience - how long it can be before it's back in stock again?

Well, I tested the lenses at home and here are the results: indeed, the FOV changes as the focus changes. The change isn't consistent between lenses, though.

 

On the 24-85, when the focus changes from infinity to closer distance, the FOV increases (the "effective" focal range decreases), while on the 70-200, when the focus changes from infinity to closer distance, the FOV decreases (the "effective" focal range increases).

 

This can explain why when focused at around 6 ft, the 85 decreases and the 70 increases, so they seem the same.

 

Thanks everyone for your answers!

Kenneth, this is strange. I don't remember the FOV changing when changing the focus, but I'll check it. Anyway, I tested it around 6 ft too, which is about the maximum distance I'm going to use indoors.

I'm considering buying the EF 85/1.8 or EF 100/2 for portrait

photography indoors. Since I'm not sure whether 100mm may be too long

for indoors, I decided to try these 2 focal lengths using my EF 70-

200/4L. My body is Elan 7, by the way.

 

The problem is that I'm not sure whether I can trust the focal length

scale on the lens, because I found something strange: it seems like

the short focal length of the 70-200 (supposed to be 70) is similar

to the long focal length of my EF 24-85/3.5-4.5 (supposed to be 85).

They give the same picture when the camera is mounted on a tripod.

 

I compared the picture I get with the 24-85 at 50mm to my EF 50/1.8

and they're the same, so it looks like the 24-85 is "ok".

 

Did anybody notice this issue? Can it be true? How can I really know

what the 85 and 100 mm focal lengths will look like?

"What more do you need to know?"

 

So this applies to E-6 only? What about negatives?

Sorry, but this doesn't help. I've seen it already.

I have some questions regarding Q-labs. I expected these to be f.a.q.

but couldn't find the answers in the forums, so I'll appreciate your

answers. In case the answers are already available - can you give me

the appropriate links?

 

1. I know a lab that is a "Q-lab". From a short explanation I got

from a friend, I know they don't use the equipment most labs use that

can leave scratches on the film. Instead they "dip" the film in the

chemicals so that it can't be scratched. In addition, they have

better quality assurance practices. I'm quite sure this isn't the

whole story. Can you tell me some more about these labs?

 

2. Does it have to do with negative processing too, or just with

slides?

 

3. I know Q-lab is a Kodak name. Are there professional labs of

similar quality of other companies (e.g. Fuji) too?

 

Thanks,

 

Ido Yellin

I've searched the archives and haven't found any real review of this

camera, so I'll appreciate every input you can give.

I'm looking for a P&S camera for my wife. Requirements: small size,

good (not necessarily very good) optical quality, zoom.

 

Thanks, Ido

Another factor to consider is the noise level of the camera. The Elan 7 is very silent, while the 3, for example, is much noisier.

Try <a href=http://www.johnhendry.com/gadget/index.htm>this site</a>.

I'm thinking about these slim filters that have front threads, but apparently their front threads are quite shallow. Doesn't it make it harder to keep the cap in place?

I'd like to know whether the EW-73II hood (for the EF 24-85/3.5-4.5

USM) and the EW-83II hood (for the 20-35/3.5-4.5 USM) are screw-on

hoods.

 

The reason for asking is that I'm considering these lenses and I want

to get slim filters for them, and from what I understand these

filters don't have a front thread, so that I can use them with a lens

hood only if it's not a screw-on hood.

 

While we're at it, if anyone has these lenses and can tell me if it's

really possible to use the hood with a slim filter, I'll be thankful.

Thanks guys, you've been very helpful.

 

I love this forum! It's really great.

I'm looking for a bag. It will have to hold: Elan 7 + grip, at least

4 lenses (50, 24-85, 70-200, 20-35), flash, film, and other stuff.

 

I'm thinking about the Domke F-2, but I'm concerned about its size -

I'm afraid it's too big.

 

Other alternatives are the F-3X and the F-6, but I'm afraid they're

too small. The thing is - from their specifications (I can't go see

them in a store, so I'll have to mail-order them), the size seems too

small, but maybe I'm missing something because I don't really know

how they're built, what pockets they have, and what sizes these

pockets are, and how much padding they have. So if anyone knows these

bags and can describe them to me, I'll be very happy.

 

Thanks,

Ido Yellin

For what camera/lenses?