mike_hodson

Check out Photocart by picturespro.com. It's an application that you buy once and host on your own

website. I've been very impressed with it's customization and functionality.

Raise your prices...besides the obvious benefits, this might help because you may be dealing with clients who don't want to haggle over the price of everything.

 

Simply. If you want to spend less time in the office, then just offer the clients the files on disc. Let them make their own prints and albums etc.

I also use CF#4 to have the AF activated via the * button.

 

I believe that when you activate IS, it stays active for a set period of time...maybe 2 seconds, or 4. So you can use the * button to focus and activate IS...then you can release it (to recompose) then snap the shot before IS becomes inactive.

Once you find a good software and workflow for RAW...you will never want to shoot JPEG again. Memory is cheaper and cheaper every day as well.

 

Good Luck.

Keep in mind that IS will only help to freeze blurriness from camera shake...it will not help to freeze motion by the subject (sports). Sure it will help, overall....but what you really need for sports is a fast shutter speed...which means a wider aperture. That's why the F2.8 zooms get so many recommendations.

The advantage is getting them off the camera. If you then need a 2nd or 3rd flash to illuminate something that the first one doesn't...then there certainly is an advantage to having more than one.

Yes, IS works...and should give you two (maybe three?) extra stops of 'hand-hold-ability'.

 

However, keep in mind that IS only helps to freeze camera shake. At 1/15...any movement by the subject with show up.

I've purchanced from them, Highly recommended.

 

The batteries are actually better than the Canon equivalent (unless Canon has upgraded since I bought mine). (From memory) The Sterlingtek batteries are 1300 Milli-amps vs 1100 on the Canon...that means longer lasting power.

That camera (and pretty much all digital "point & shoot" cameras) have a small sensor. A small sensor means small photo-sites, which means that each photo-site has limited light gathering ability. That means that the sensor signal has to be amplified (higher amplification with higher ISO)...and that is what causes the noise.

 

This is why a lot of us (on the EOS forum) have EOS digital SLR cameras...the sensor is much larger.

If you have saved the action, you should be able to open it from the actions pallet. If you want to 'export' the action to a file...you need to take the action 'set'. For example, in the actions pallet, create a new set and put your action into that set. Highlight the set (not the action) and then you can 'save actions'...which will turn your set into a file. To retrieve this set, you can go to 'load actions'.

Get them to schedule you for two hours of photography. Then when they only show up for one hour, you should be OK.

Great capture...but not a good image overall.

In theory it would make sense not to purchase an EF-S lens, if you have aspirations to get a F.F. digital or 35mm EOS camera.

 

However, if you want a wide FOV on a 20D an EF-S lens will probably be much less expensive than an EF lens in the ultra-wide category.

 

The EF-S 18-55 kit lens is very cheap (price and quality) but for less than $100 it will give you a great wide FOV on that camera.

Is this a serious question?

 

You shoot in AI focus mode and you are wondering why one of the subjects may not be in focus?

 

Try using one shot focus...focus lock and recompose if necessary.

 

Try changing CF#4 and using the * button for focus.

Any Canon EOS camera is compatible with any Canon EF lens. That particular camera is also compatible with Canon EF-S lenses as well.

 

There are also several brands of lenses that will be compatible. Sigma, Tamron etc.

Aperture and shutter speed will depend on the lighting...which may be changing by the minute.

 

When I think of jogging photos...I think of back lit silhouettes. Especially around sunrise. Problem is that this might render them unrecognizable...you should ask if that's what they want.

 

Another concern is that if you set up and have them run their route...you will only have one chance. Then you would have to hustle to get back in front of them & set up again. Unless they are going in circles...it would be much easier to set up and have them go by you until you get the shot you want. Not exactly candid but it will make getting the shot a lot easier.

 

Maybe get a friend to drive and follow them while you shoot from the passenger or back seat.

I also bought an ADIDT from E-bay. Works just fine.

There is no reason not to trust the meter...but you have to understand what it's trying to tell you. It's always giving you the exposure to make the scene (or the metered area) 18%. You have to look at the scene and look at what it is the meter is seeing to give you that exposure...then you have to decide if you want to compensate.

 

If you have an incident meter...try some experiments. Meter the scene with the camera and then measure the incident light. Then compare the two readings. If they are different...try to figure out why they are different.

 

Most of the time, you can get by...shooting average scenes with no exposure compensation...but there are plenty of times when that just won't get you the 'best' exposure.

Just look at the file size for your images...they are all different. There are more factors involved that just ISO setting that determine the size of the resulting file.

 

The shots remaining counter is just an estimate based upon the average file size.

 

May I make a suggestion or two? Don't worry about how many shots you are GOING to take...this is digital. Just shoot as many as you need to. Get more memory and shoot in RAW.

Another vote for www.sterlingtek.com

 

I've been using their batteries for a year now. Prices are great and the customer service is top notch.

The right bag is a very personal choice. If you can, I suggest going into a well stocked camera shop and testing out different bags.

 

I own a few bags of various sizes from Lowepro, the build quality is very good and the design well thought out. The 'AW' bags come with a built-in rain cover.

 

I have a backpack style bag as my main travel bag. It's nice to carry but inconvenient to access quickly and a pain in the rear if I have to set it down 'in the field'...which I almost a must because of the front open design. I prefer the top open style of a shoulder bag but I don't want to carry a heavy bag on the shoulder for very long.

AFAIK...The RAW file has the "as shot" WB setting in it. So the way the RAW preview image looks will be affected by the WB setting...but you can change it at the point of conversion.

Here is a list (mostly user submitted) of flash trigger voltages. If you know the name/manufacturer of your flash, then you might find it here.

 

http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

Is it a teleconverter or a close-up filter. If it's a close-up filter, that would explain the inability to focus...at normal distances anyway.

Try a search for astronomy actions for Photoshop. I've seen some people do wonders on astronomy shots with a series of filters and adjustments.