eshifri

<p>Happened to me on 5D. These are not present on the original preview and not visible on the camera screen. They are generated when PS re-creates previews from the raw files.<br>

The only way I have found to "fix" it is to direct my Bridge to the card in the card-reader instead of the copy on the disk. Looks like it is necessary to re-generate the images on the card itself. On the other hand, it was happening on all cards, so I'm not sure about my explanation, but the "solution" worked.</p>

 

<p>Please notice that dynamic range in the referenced article is defined with decimal logarithm - this is the way it used by scanner manufactures. For cameras DR is measured in stops, so 2-based logarithm is used.</p>

<p>I'm almost sure you will be able to mount it, but I do not know what the optical performance will be.<br>

For similar effect you can use TC with extension rings between it and the lens.</p>

<p>I do not have 100/2.0, but I have both 85/1.8 and 135/2.0. And they say 100 and 85 are very close in performance...<br>

While 85/1.8 is an excellent lens I prefer 135/2.0 images. I cannot put my finger on the technical parameter that is better; it is just an overall "feel" of the image; it has some "air" in it. </p>

<p>I had the same or very similar problem. I do not know exactly what is the root-cause, but my suspicion it is HW rather than SW issue. Most likely, it is the grounding somewhere in the system. I found out that to fix it I need to mount the card as an external disk and visit it with Explorer, or, even better, with the Bridge. I guess this causes charge refresh on the card. Usually this fixes it. There was one incident when this was not enough - I ran "check disk for errors" on the card and that was it. My impression is the problem depends on the humidity levels: it happens more often in summer than in winter (I'm in California). </p>

<p>I would recommend Kenko 1.4 extender TC300 (if I'm not mistaken). Canon extenders do not fit this lens.</p>

<p>Chances you have a custom function to switch into the picture-taking mode with exposure lock button enabled?</p>

1.Yes.

2. Who knows?

As I'm sure you know, the err99 error means that the camera is unable to diagnose the problem. So it may be anything. The dirty lens-camera contacts, as it was already suggested. Recently I got the same error on my 10D and it turned out to be caused by the dying battery: when I switched to a new properly charged one the err99 was gone. It may help to keep a battery in the charger for about 3 hours insead of taking it out when the constant light is on. You also want to clean the battery contacts.

Well, lens choise is a very subjective thing...

I like this lens a lot on the 10D. I find it's angle of view much more interresting than that of 50mm on the film body (very subjective, of course).

The focusing speed is fast as you would expect from the USM lens.

It has very beautiful bokeh (once again - subjective thing) and very nice picture.

It is sharp enough for me, although I have read that many are not quite happy about its sharpness wide open.

Well, 110 lp/mm requires at least 220 pixel/mm to be resloved; preferably 330 pixel/mm, since the pixels are in ordered pattern. If you take noise into account, you would like to be 4 times above Niquist frequency, which gives us 220x4=880 pixel/mm.

On another note: digicam lenses are usually limited to 8 as the smallest aperture, so you are completely rigth on that part.

And due to the small sensor size, digicam zooms may be quite good in resolution.

Kind of related question... Can somebody tell me where can I get a focusing screen for Elan II? The repair ficility (Ritz Camera) asks about $150 for replacing the screen; I believe I can do it myself, if I can get one.

If it does not support E-TTL (and most likely it does not)it will not.

www.shutterfly.com

And it is usually for 100 ISO.

Originally Vivitar 283 was introduced wit ~300V trigger voltage (I have one), but later the trigger voltage was reduced to something more acceptable for modern cameras. The only way to find out - is to measure. You do not need a very fency voltmeter to do that - anything will work. Even if the measurement is not accurate, you will see a difference between 6 and 300.

4*1/2000=1/500

Switch to manual focus?

This is the way it should work. Every EOS-compatible lens (TC included) pushes a microswitch on the body, telling the camera that EOS electrical protocol is supported by the lens. So when the TC is mounted the camera expects to communicate with the lens. Since your manual lens does not respond to the camera CPU, the camera reports an error and shuts itself down.

There are 3 works around:

1. You may remove this pin from the TC. (Definitely bad decision, unless you have lots of extra cash. :-) )

2. You may use a manual TC.

3. You may open a mount and rotate the TC a couple degrees. This will decouplle the pin in the TC and the micro-switch on the body. The camear will believe it is working with the manual lens. Of course, you have to take care that the whole thing does not separate in your hands.

Good shooting!

80-200/2.8 L can use Tamron and Kenko Pro 300 teleconverters, that are quite good IMHO. I would consider $500 to be a good price for a used one. I cannot imagine somebody has this lens "brand new, still factory sealed".

The letter looks like a fraud to me.

Both lenses have FTM.

In my opinion 85/1.8 has a better bokeh.

Both focal lenses are good for portrait, so it boils to personal preferences. You can use your zoom to determine whether you like 50mm perspective for portrait or prefer a longer one.

Once again: both are good lenses, so the decision is very personal.

I used universal remote with Elan IIe.

Sorry, do not know the codes. I found it experimentally; it was something for RCA video.

Theoretically I think you can do this using coherent optics. You can do it digitally deconvolving the image and some "bluring filter". But for practical purpose the answer is NO.

I'm using it with Kenko 300 Pro 1.4x on Elan II - no problem.

This limitation is also posted on the Kenko site.

On the other hand I have this TC and autofocus works fine with EF 85/1.8.