melvin_h_j_tan

Hey Graeme,

 

Would you be able to furnish me with the address of Camera Electronics? Thanks

Hi Tachi,

 

I've been to Perth several times but never shot LF. Tasmania is beautiful for landscapes! Wow, getting excited just thinking about it, unfortunately, I'm currently using a view camera which I probably can't take with me. Maybe it's time to look around for an affordable view camera...perhaps a horseman FA. Then I'll have to get an adaptor lens board so that I don't have to change boards for different cameras.

 

Hey, can show me your work some time?

Well...i don't profess to know it all, but when it comes to shops carrying new LF equipment, there are only a handful. Cathay Photo carries horseman and accessories and have a good range of them as well. as to the other brands, none have a shop or a place you can go see them first. they are usually on a indent basis; you order, they ship it in, not much of a difference to me from ordering online actually.

 

I just wish there were more places where we can go touch and have a feel of the cameras, lenses, etc before deciding what's good.

 

I'm sure there are still LF users in singapore...heard from one pro that many are still using them in studios for product shoots, with digital backs. but you'd be hard-pressed to spot a LF on the streets. as to film sources: only 2 shops stock 4x5 film, one does on a regular basis while the other is more like an occassional few boxes that come in. the owner of the latter shop claims that there are hardly any buyers of 4x5 film and they usually run out of date before they get moved...thus the sorry state of LF in singapore.

Hi everyone,

 

I'm a new LF user in Singapore and i'm planning a trip to Perth in

late July. I was wondering if anyone can recommend shops that carry

either new or used LF cameras, lenses and accessories. The LF scene

here in S'pore is quite sad...

 

Also, anyone care to recommend some good sites for landscape

photography?

 

Thanks

 

Melvin H J Tan

Your first shot is really nice...the colours and definition is really good too. Care to share the technical data, like camera/lens, shutter, aperture and film. what about scanner info and any touch up digitally.

 

thanks.

 

melvin h j tan

No comments about how NG is doing its editing but I really agree that the pics of hanoi are about the worst i've seen of harvey's work. my first impression when i thumbed thru the pages was: "what? these were shot by harvey?" and secretly (i'm sure you guys too..), i was thinking to myself that NG should put me on assignment too! i guess its a long-time dream to shoot for the geographic. with pics like those of hanoi, the dream may be closer to reality than i think!

 

melvin h j tan

Hi Travis,

 

It seems that you have more than sufficient advice from everyone so I won't give you more. Just thought I simply share my experiences.

 

Firstly, you should do what you're comfortable with. What you shoot with, flash or not, is entirely up to your desired effect.

 

I shoot weddings 2 ways. One is with an F4, 28-70mm lens, flash, color film. The other is with a couple of M6's and 4 lens: 24, 35, 50, 90. But I seldom do both at the same time. it's really difficult to try to do both so i'll suggest concentrating your efforts. I always try to get clients to get someone else to shoot the boring straight-type color shots so that i can experiment with my b/w.

 

btw, i shoot neopan 400 for 90% of my weddings. most situations indoors will at least allow 1/30th at f/2-2.8 so that's manageable. this is so even in ballrooms. which one you shooting in?

 

most of all, have fun!

 

cheers.

melvin tan

 

www.hjtan.com

 

singapore

What about the Rodenstock 90mm f/6.8?

 

Melvin H J Tan

James,

 

I wear glasses yet still find the 0.85x vf to be very user-friendly for 50mm. There is still 'space' around the frame to view your subject. Ultimately, you should go take a look through the different vfs and pick the one you feel most comfortable with.

 

Melvin H J Tan

www.hjtan.com

I guess i should add that i normally shoot with 2 M6TTL, a 0.58 and a 0.85. I have a 24, 35 cron and a 90 elmarit. usually, i carry at least one body, the 0.58 with the 35. I also have a full nikon f3, f4 system, prime lens from 20mm to 300mm and mamiya rz67 system. they're all too heavy compared to the leica system, so in that respect, the M6 with a 35 cron IS my back-up

 

Melvin HJ Tan

Though it's not available brand new, I find the Nikon 35Ti to be an excellent P&S back-up. It's got a 35mm nikon glass with a f/2.8 so its pretty handy in lower light conditions. the instrumental panel on the top-plate is still a great aesthetic feature.

 

Melvin H J Tan

I use a 0.58 with a 24mm, but have never been comfortable with just using the vf of the camera. perhaps this is due to the fact that i wear glasses which means that i have to do some serious moving to see all the framelines of the 28mm. OTOH, the external finder is very bright and since the 24mm has considerable dof, you can shoot lots with just some small quick adjustments to the focus. cheers.

Here's an example of neopan 1600 developed in rodinal. Does anyone know what's the development time for rodinal if i push neopan 400 to 800? or neopan 400 pushed to 1600?<div></div>

Here's an example of neopan 400 in rodinal, don't have access to the 1600 ones now, but will try to post asap.<div></div>

I have been using rodinal for processing all my neopan 400 with great results. I once sent a roll for processing at a lab using T-max developer and it came back with enlarged grain. Very disappointing. So from then on, I decided to do it myself with Rodinal. I just processed some neopan 1600 last week, and tho it was slightly under-developed, I found the grain to be reasonably tight. Film was exposed at 1600, Rodinal 1+25, 20 degrees celsius, 10 min. Full agitation during the 1st min, 10 secs every min thereafter.

Since then, i've altered my processing to 5sec agitation every 30 secs. much better.