melvin_h_j_tan

<p>Another from the same trip...</p><div></div>

<p>M6ttl in Lijiang, China</p><div></div>

<p>Hi Jonnek,</p>

<p>I do the same...SC-17 with the Leica SF-20 flash on auto. Works great.<br>

In fact, I do it with the D-Lux 4 for versatile compact with flash photography.<br>

<br />Cheers.<br>

Melvin</p>

Thanks everyone for your response. will try to catch Bruce Davidson at HCB foundation and the rest.

I'll be in Paris from 12-14 March and thereafter in London till 17 March.

Anyone know of any photo exhibitions worth checking out while I'm in town?

Thanks upfront for your help.

Cheers.

The only reason you would use both front and back tilts is that you want to pretty much compose the image with all the convergences, then bring both elements upright to correct the perspective.

For architecture, i usually keep the camera level, then use the front or back rise/falls to get the image centred, so to speak. I'm in singapore, would love to chat with you and talk shop with one of the world's leading photographers.

 

Melvin

Try FotoHub at corner of Beach Road and Tan Quee Lian Street. They used to be called RGB color and do great slides processing.

My vote is definitely the current 35mm cron asph. Lightweight and excellent performer. It will go squarely in the middle of your range in terms of aperture speed and, somewhat, focal length.

 

Cheers.

sorry, that didn't come out right. Let me try again.

here's one...

This one is a little bigger...<div></div>

Really sharp lens, great for effect.<div></div>

Can anyone shed light on whether I can bring a 47mm xl lens to focus

at infinity on a Horseman FA camera?

 

Any advice is appreciated.

 

Thanks

Hi,

 

While I cannot comment on the Sinar F1, I can say that the LE is a very sturdy camera that will meet most, if not all of your needs. My only complaint is the weight. I shoot architecture and usually work out of the car, which is fine. But I find it cumbersome when set up on the tripod and moving it to another location around a building is quite a heave. For field work, expect a work-out!

 

Overall, though, the geared movements are a joy to use, precise and smooth. You might need a recessed lens board for anything wider than 75mm.

Sergey,

 

Just a note, make sure the rear element of the 90mm you intend to buy fits the FA. i have a topcor 90mm f/4.5 which doesn't and needs to be unscrewed, and mounted from the back before fitting back the groundglass. My 90mm f/6.8 has no problems.

 

I sometimes put the camera on its side and use the shift to get more 'rise' but soon the bellows start to vignette.

 

The FA isn't the greatest for architecture, but for the compact size and durability, its a great camera. especially for you travel needs.

 

Melvin H J Tan

Singapore

TAKE THE 0.58! I wear glasses and with the 35mm, there is just enough space to see out of the frame, not like the illustrations above show. You should really try it out for yourself.

 

I split my 4 lenses into 2 cameras. 24m, 35mm with the 0.58 and 50mm, 90mm with a 0.85.

 

Works great for me!

I assume you know how to load the rollfilm holder...

 

just make sure the take up spool is on the right side, the new roll goes into the holder on the left side.

 

once loaded, wind the lever in full strokes until it stops.

 

as mentioned, once you expose one frame, slide the silver tab once, let go, then wind the lever till it stops. expose the next frame.

 

that's it.

 

good luck.

Hi Jim,

 

I shoot with a Horseman LE for all my LF architectural work.

 

I agree that the camera is heavy...in fact it is very heavy. I pack my camera, a 90mm and 150mm lenses, 6x9 back, film holders, filters, light meters, etc into a Lowe Pro Photo Trekker and it weighs 'a ton'! Sometimes, I feel the weight of the camera prevents me from going out more often, when it comes to personal work.

 

Having said that, I love the LE for it's geared movements. I have played around with other cameras that don't have geared movements and it just don't cut it for me. As an architectural photographer, I insist on the maximum precision and the LE offers me exactly that.

 

Movements are plenty on the LE, with max 60mm front rise + rear fall. This should cover most tall buildings from a reasonably close distance.

 

Coming back to the weight issue, I do sometimes wish for a Horseman FA to use for interior work and shorter buildings like houses, it still has the geared front rise and its very precise as well. What exactly do you shoot? Many skyscrapers? Or mostly 2 storey houses?

 

Cheers

Hi Keith,

 

You might find this link very useful...and inspiring.

 

http://digitaljournalist.org/issue0408/howe-miller.html

Sure Jon, will do that. Thanks

Thanks Huub, I'll look around for a 2nd hand processor. I think it will really make processing more enjoyable.

"As for using rodinal: take care that you use at least 12 ml of rodinal for 4 sheets of 4x5. When using a 1:50 dilution, ths gives 700 ml of solution!"

What is the temperature/ time combination for 1:50 dilution? what about 1:25 dilution?

 

thanks

Hi Walter, thanks for your comments. You mentioned that the water bath has some effects on the contrast and development times. In what way will it affect the final negs? does it add contrast or lower? Should the development times be adjusted? If so, which way and by how much? I've been having mixed results with my development. One reason is that I self roll the tank so faster or slower will affect the development. sometimes, i get negs too thin and other times, it comes out too dense. i've been advised once to use a slightly stronger developer to get my thin negs more dense. is that good advice?

Hi to all the darkroom masters,

 

Just want to check if anyone uses a water bath before the developer

to get the film and tank to the right temperature? I process my 4x5

in a jobo tank, self rotated. The reel holds up to 4 sheets at one

time. I use Tmax Developer RS at 24 degrees celcius processed for 6

1/2 mins. When I use a water bath before the developer, the water

comes out all dark blue. Is this normal? So far, my negs have been

fine but am wondering if there is a better way or if the water bath

has been applied correctly. The water bath is usually at 24 degrees

as well.

 

Anyone has any suggestions for time/temperature combinations for Agfa

Rodinal with Tmax 100 Professional 4x5 film?

 

thanks.

 

Melvin Tan

No one seems to have a good word for the Horseman LE. And I can understand why. I use the LE for my architectural work as well, but it's really heavy. Even to take it out of the car and walk a few hundred metres around a building can be a chore. However, I must say that for architectural work, the movements are plenty and the whole camera is built so well it's a joy to use, that's after you get it in position and mounted on a tripod. From the description of your use, I would strongly recommend a field camera, much lighter, easier to set-up and still with enough movements to shoot your cityscapes.

 

Hope this helps.

When I last made a trip to Europe, I packed my gear into a Crumpler backpack and packed my Domke F803 into the luggage. As soon as i arrived at the hotel, my M6 and lenses were transferred to the domke and i was off shooting from my favourite shooter's bag. The f803 is easy to pack. instead of flattening it, i stuffed my t-shirts, socks and others into the bag and packed it all in. no sweat.

 

Melvin