drachir

<p>Hi, Robert White used to sell the MF slide trays M77/30 as a set of 6 in hinged-front keepers. I never found any as single trays without the keeper. Cost is high, looking on ebay might produce some. These are wonderful projectors but do require occasional cleaning: if the lamp seems to dim slightly when you activate the slide change then it's time to dismantle and vacuum away accumulated dust inside. I have found that the tiniest drop of sewing machine oil on the bearings of the main gears and other rotating parts makes it run more smoothly, but don't let oil get anywhere near the slide transport mechanism. regards Richard</p>

I'm trying to find a United Kingdom source of suitable heat filter glass for a Rollei PII.0 MF

projector. The correct part with glass as a s/h item would be nice but none of the usual sources

have them. So if I can find proper Chance (or other) heat filter glass in 3mm. thickness and 7 x

7cm. size (or I could cut to size) I can make up a holder for it. Anyone know a UK source of heat

filter glass? TIA

I have several boxes of older GePe A/N 66 frames and many of the individual glasses have taken

on a milky appearance. They have never been used! I have tried gentle cleaning with weak

detergent solution but it has no effect. Is there anything I can do? The appearance is similar to that

which affects quality crystal glass if it is mistakenly put in a dishwasher.

Answering myself! After quite a bit of research I have settled on a replacement GY9.5

socket and an A1/244 500w 240v. Halogen bulb, originally designed for stage

lighting. Will report back after fitting it. It will need the extra heat filter glass for

which the PII has a spare slot.

I have looked at threads from previous years about this topic, and would like to know current

thinking:

Which Nikon digital SLRs can I mount my nice AI lenses on? I'd be buying a body s/h, so could go

back to early Nikon Dslrs - how far back?

Alternatively I read that Canon EOS and 20D bodies will take Nikon AI lenses with an adapter -

please, who makes it and where is it available (outside USA if possible!)?

It appears that with a Canon D body I get some metering capability -- stop down only (?) -- but

with Nikon D50/D70 I get nothing. Am I correct?

I'd appreciate some advice ref. setting ColorSych. I use a Canon 9900F and print on a

new Canon IP4200. So far the first few prints scanned at factory settings from Fuji

Provia have come out too blue and lacking enough yellow. The scanner offers me 6

options in Settings>Preferences>Colour tab>ColorSynch with IP4200 as 'Target':

MP2, PR1, PR2, PR3, SP2, SP4. I have no idea to what these refer (or the likely effects).

Can anyone using this equipment path offer suggestions to help get a consistent

result, as I don't want to do post-scan processing in Photoshop every time if possible.

Canon Helpdesk have not provided any help after 6 days! Thanks.

Does anyone have a Wiring Diagram for a Rollei Universal P.II projector which they

could scan and e-mail me? Alternatively a scan of the User's Handbook/Instructions

would be helpful. TIA, Richard

I have read Isaac Chen's report (6/26/05) on changing to halogen bulbs for this

projector - v.interesting, but where does one get the adapter and bulb for 220/240v

operation? Also his link to the scanned PII user manual returns a 404 error -- can this

be obtained from another online source? Thanks.

Thanks for replying -- I now have something to follow up.

A while ago there was a thread about shutter curtains which advocated use of 'Mar-

Hyde 4311' (a vehicle underseal). Is this likely to work on a mid-series 'F' titanium

curtain? The leading curtain on my F has developed a pinhole about 0.5mm near the

latch which joins the curtains when wound. No real problem if I leave it unwound but

produces slight flare at edge of negs if I leave shutter wound. The product mentioned

is USA-make, anything similar in UK?

Any idea of where I can get an A200 3.8Ah 8v battery in UK? Code appears to be 071/

90400. Or -- any alternative battery for a shoulder flash power unit? Unit I have is

showing 6v and won't hold charge so I guess it is too old.

Thanks

I have got a Lumiquest 'Big Bounce' as part of 'a lot'. It looks

useful but I can't figure out how to fit it to any of my flashguns,

viz. Minolta 2800AF, Sunpak 3600AZ and Braun F910. Could someone else

who has one give me some guidance? It fits with velcro tabs.

Thanks.

I'm coming back on this one: as the camera/lens were given me I'm OK

about delving inside if it is worthwhile. It's an AF f/1.7 50mm and

as far as I can tell by looking through the back in various lighting

conditions the aperture is not closing at all. I read elsewhere on

this forum that it is to do with a ?capacitor? in the lens not

charging up and therefore not allowing the lens to stop down. If I

can get at it and replace it maybe I can get the lens working again?

Has anyone tackled this - succesfully or not! As various posters have

said, it's not worth paying to have it done.

I believe - but have not tested it - that the 970 and some other Horsemans use the

'Baby Graflok' back. But not having a small Graflex or Graflex backs I can't check this

theory. Perhaps someone else knows for certain? Horseman's own backs for the 970/

980 will of course fit, both the older Knob Wind type and the more recent (but still

old) Lever Wind: what they must have are the "pins" each side for the sprung arms to

engage with.

Thanks for the reply - the camera was given to me by a friend who has gone digital

and there is only the standard lens. Two little buttons just to the right of the lens

mount (viewed from front) adjust the aperture in Manual mode -- only they don't. I'll

try to find someone who has another lens and see if it's the same. As you say, it won't

be worth paying for an overhaul.

I have a 5000 AF camera and can't get the aperture buttons to adjust

in Manual mode: v/f readout remains at f/5.6. Shutter speed buttons

work OK and vary the speed in the readout. It shows OK in Program

mode, aperture readout varies with light and distance focused. Can I

do anything to fix this short of a full overhaul? Thanks

I have a Braun F910 shoulder flash unit with a Braun VarioControl for on-camera

sensing and one-third-stop accuracy. What is the small slider switch (top right back)

for? It's opposite the 'ready light' and in the up position shows red. I don't have a

manual! Thanks for info, it's a great gun.

What views are there about the quality of the modern Voigtlander

lenses made to accompany the Bessa R? What about their use on Leica

39 mount bodies? And, are their threads compatible with Canon

rangefinder bodies such as the P and 7? There are said to be subtle

differences in the way Canon cut their threads compared to Leica.

I have some GePe 7x7cm. AN slide frames which have developed a milky,

slightly streaked appearance in the glasses. They are not very old

and are perfectly clean but unusable.

Is there anything I can do to recover them for use?

In Digest 12/11/01 Q.G de Bakker refers to the need to use original

equipment Hass light traps for the magazine backs. Please, what is

the Hassy code for the traps and foils for the A12 back (they are

likely the same for all backs). I have e-mailed Hasselblad UK but

received no reply. Also, where in UK can they be obtained? I don't

trust my backs to an unknown repairer.

Richard Evans

Can anyone advise me how to calibrate a Gossen Polysix Electronic? As

far as I can tell it has 3 small potentiometers inside, but I don't

want to mess it up. I have a Weston V for comparison, Gossen seems

one and one-third stops out. Thanks.

Have you looked in McKeown or another Rollei authority? 756935 would appear to be a Type II c. 1937-39. According to McKeown the type with bayonet filter rings on both lenses is known as a IIa.,originally they had no bayonets, then on taking lens only.

Great camera and system. No revolving back facility on 970, only on later VH-R types. I use a Manfrotto head with tilt in two directions, it's easy to tilt camera on its side for portrait. In UK it is not easy to get spares, USA is a better source. The 'Super' lenses are regarded as better, but the standard 'Professional' lenses are good for most uses. I use it hand-held(!) with the 65mm. lens and the rangefinder is pretty accurate if properly adjusted. Enjoy it!

Mamiya changed the design of the C range front lens board at some point, including a change of the hinge for the lens retaining frame from left to right. Also the design of the shutter mount changed. Thus some lenses will fit any camera - mostly the shorter focal length lenses - but many, especially the 180mm. will only fit the camera for which they were designed. The answer is to take the body with you if you are contemplating the purchase of an additional lens.